Goodsy 0 Posted September 29, 2012 <p>My middle aged crisis car a Tamiya High Lift.As perchased Plenty of mods on the go. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goodsy 0 Posted September 30, 2012 First mod. The Landrover is now brushless. Installed a Hobbywing 45amp esc and 1500KV 3650 motor. It has begun. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goodsy 0 Posted September 30, 2012 What next. Love tinkering with this thing. Have taken the diff lock pins out as the turning circle was atrocious. Might put the rear back in Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goodsy 0 Posted September 30, 2012 Can anyone explain the rear hub locking bar to me. It looks stock but is a bit of a weak link? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TWINSET 1793 Posted September 30, 2012 You mean this; Can anyone explain the rear hub locking bar to me. It looks stock but is a bit of a weak link? You mean this? That plate spanning the knuckles isn't a stock piece, nor any aftermarket part I've seen You can access the build manual for one of the High Lifts here; http://www.tamiyausa...roduct-id=58372 The stock setup is a 3mm diameter steel link - similar to the front end, unless that's been swapped out too; Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TongueTied 56 Posted September 30, 2012 Who's D90 body is it? RC4WD? It looks like it is a perfect fit which surprises me because I would have expected it to have been too short without modifying the chassis. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goodsy 0 Posted October 1, 2012 The body is a great fit. Not sure who makes it but here's an eBay link. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RC-GO-LAND-ROVER-D90-Bodies-for-AXIAL-SCX10-RC4WD-/130764236180?pt=UK_ToysGames_ModelKits_ModelKits_JN&hash=item1e7227e594#ht_500wt_1288 . Modified the rear brace plate thingo. This is a great improvement. Front is still stock.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mongoose1983 3335 Posted October 2, 2012 Have you seen this one? It was made by TCer Mcovalsk: http://www.tamiyaclu...=97608&sid=6228 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goodsy 0 Posted October 2, 2012 Have you seen this one? It was made by TCer Mcovalsk: http://www.tamiyaclu...=97608&sid=6228 Now I have. Nice rig. A little high for my liking but if is was mine I wouldn't complain. Still got a long road with this one. So much to do. Added some lights for night driving. It looks so cool. I'm such a kid. Headlights next. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goodsy 0 Posted October 11, 2012 Added some bar work. Cost about $5 for the ally and a bit of fab work. Pretty happy with the result. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billg4 25 Posted October 11, 2012 sharp looking tires look a bit small though for decent offroading, check RC4WD for some scale 1.9's Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goodsy 0 Posted March 17, 2016 I'm back. Was a look at me on the shelf while I chased speed with varoius expensive offrorders. Got to 100kph with an eRevo but I'm back. Love my Tamiya What wheels do you recomend now? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted March 17, 2016 I think the current outer diameter are pretty good for true scale to the body, only problem is the Tamiya tyres are pretty dire performers, a bit too much plastic in the formulation i feel. You could look at Kongs or KRT - you need something around 90-96mm (but check what you have first !). A lot of the 1.9" tyres from RC4Wd and the chinese copies are 100mm,104mm and even bigger - fine for open wheeled competition style rock crawlers but not great for bodies with closed wheel wells. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted March 17, 2016 You may be able to move the shocks to the lower screw hole on the axle case rather than the upper one you have now - this will reduce the gap above the tyre, effectively lowering the ride height by ca 10mm Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goodsy 0 Posted March 18, 2016 You may be able to move the shocks to the lower screw hole on the axle case rather than the upper one you have now - this will reduce the gap above the tyre, effectively lowering the ride height by ca 10mm Ok. Did this today and now the "shocks" are binding. Going back to original setup. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted March 18, 2016 Ok. Did this today and now the "shocks" are binding. Going back to original setup. That's odd, plenty of people have moved the shocks ( taking the blocks under the leaf springs as well). No issue on mine but perhaps I have a bit more clearance with the Gmade shocks I have fitted Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goodsy 0 Posted March 18, 2016 Not binding on any body part but click when compressed from fully extended. Question. Can you remove them? I cannot see a use for them at 10kmph??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goodsy 0 Posted March 19, 2016 More work on the truck today. Now I need to find side mirrows for the D90 body. Any ideas? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted March 19, 2016 More work on the truck today. Now I need to find side mirrows for the D90 body. Any ideas? eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/171578109328 or maybe shapeways for 3D printed items. I dare say rc4wd do them, perhaps also check killerbody brand at asiatees.com as their marauder body is a landie clone 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goodsy 0 Posted March 19, 2016 eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/171578109328 or maybe shapeways for 3D printed items. I dare say rc4wd do them, perhaps also check killerbody brand at asiatees.com as their marauder body is a landie clone Cheers for that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goodsy 0 Posted March 19, 2016 Upgrading the the steering to a Savox SC-1257tg going to better than the Futaba S3003 that was in there! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites