Not sure what short course truck or stadium truck to get

[GregM]

After having built and driven a lot of Tamiya cars (and one Kyosho), I want to try out another manufacturer.

I have seen some guys at the local R/C bashing area driving HPI E-Firestorms with brushless motors on 3s LiPo and 1/8 scale wheels reaching up 100km/h top speed (at least this is what they claim to have reached), doing long wheelies like mad. I was quite impressed.

I've also seen other guys with Traxxas Slashes literally flying through the air. That looked so awesome.

Local parts support at our hobby shops is best when you choose Tamiya, however it's not that hard to get HPI and Traxxas spares, too. While Kyosho spares are a bit on the rare side, just as Team Associated and other R/C brands that are mainly focusing on competition.

So there are three cars from that I want to choose the one that suits my needs best:

- HPI E-Firestorm 2WD stadium truck

- HPI Blitz 2WD short course truck

- Traxxas Slash 2WD short course truck

They all cost roughly the same (around 230 €) and all have waterproof electronics. I have a 12 turn brushless combo ready that could be used for one of these cars. There's no offroad racing track nearby.

Thoughts on the HPI E-Firestorm:

Nice looking shell and wheels, chassis design seems to be competition-oriented. No annoying screw pins (that tend to get loose) at the suspension arms. Metric hardware. Will have to buy all-terrain tires seperately and mostly use these instead of the pin spike tires at the rear.

Thoughts on the HPI Blitz:

Basically same chassis design as the E-Firestorm. I don't like the look of the shell that much, neither the old shell nor the new Skorpion shell.

Thoughts on the Traxxas Slash 2WD:

LOVE the looks and quirky suspension movement, both contributing to its character. Appreciate the high ground clearance (a must on the place where I run due to mixed surfaces like grass fields, sand hills and tarmac). Chassis is said to be foolproof (even The Jang from UltimateRC admits it). Not keen on the suspension arms, as they are held mostly by screw pins (which I learned to hate on the Tamiya DT-02 chassis). I assume there are many hop-ups and aftermarket parts available, while most are hopefully not necessary for just bashing around? Is the hardware (screws) metric or imperial sized? Basic chassis design seems to be not really up to date.

I'd be glad if you could lead me into the right direction. At the moment, I tend most towards the 2WD Slash. 4x4 Slash is no option due to high initial costs and high regular maintenance on the not really dirt sealed drivetrain and gearboxes.

[Percymon]

I only have the 1/16th Traxxas Slash (now converted to a eRevo) but i've not broken a single component on it - OK its relatively light but i've jumped it off disused railway platforms (4ft drop), and generally given it a right beating over humps, jumps and anything else that was int he way.

I did buy a RTR Associated SC10, but i sold it without ever running it - its size wasn't for me (room to run, store, transport etc)

The Traxxas is getting on a bit now, but they have been a huge success and for good reason - great product, cheap parts, loads of hop-ups and good service.

I'd also think about the 4wd Slash too. This youtube video might give an idea of how they perform against each other..

www.youtube.com/watch?v=q3QHoB-FFeE

[B.M.T.]

Generally, Traxxas's large size (can't speak personally for the little 1/16th guys) are built like brick out-houses and absorb one badword of a beating.

This is how I lay it out to customers in my shop when they need help choosing a brand.

If you are going to be racing on a track, every 2nd sunday and not bashing around, buy an Associated RC10B4/T4/SC10. Too fragile to beat up, but precision race models.

If you are going to race and want to be in for a show, but also want to use the same rc for bouncing off a BMX track, go the HPI Firestorm/Blitz. They are not quite as light as the Associated range, but that weight goes into extra strength to absorb "fun".

If you want to race occasionally for social fun, or not at all but want "orsum hang time, bro", go for a Traxxas Bandit/Rustler/Slash (or Stampede) VXL. They are heavy, which hurts lap times, but are in general somewhere near the bottom of the periodic table for density. They might occasionally break a front upright if you clip a gutter or a post, but boo hoo, it's a $6 parts bag to fix... or buy the Hot Racing parts for $14, and nevermore.

[GregM]

Thank you both so much.

About the screw pins on Traxxas cars: Are these known to be loosing themself just as easy as they do on Tamiyas? If yes, I would have to try a method of using bare pins and securing them with small helper screws or e-clips.

[IBIFTKH]

I've got no experience of the HPI's so can't comment on them.

Got a Slash 2WD for my kids, they loved it so much we bought another. We've beaten the badword out of both and they keep coming back for more. One is still running its original 550 the other has a 12T brushless. We broke the chassis tub at the front on both trucks, doing stupidly high jumps onto tarmac. We haven't broken anything else. Haven't had any problems with screw pins (or anything else) falling off.

I've been really impressed with them, incredibly tough and lots of fun. I think we've had great value for money and I'd recommend them to anyone as a big tough basher.

(The hardware is metric.)

[GregM]

No screws falling off sounds good to me Stick a fast motor in the DT-02 and eveything is coming loose soon - if it's not the usual suspected pins, then the screws at the fixing screws from bumper to front bulkhead, servo cover plate and the servo saver screw itself. As soon as you get to that stage, there's no other way than to use UHU plast glue to repair and re-narrow the plastic threadholes. That's why I became so cautious.

Metric hardware is appreciated, as I'll then I won't have to buy new tools but can still use my beloved and trusty Tamiya branded toolset.

[speedy_w_beans]

Yep, my DT02 started falling apart after installing a brushed 19T single motor. I know exactly what you're worried about.

I have the Blitz ESE Pro, and the build was mostly good. I had a few screws strip out during the build, and I also had a few bearings with too tight a fit. But the transmission is super smooth and quiet. The HB Beams pink tires have tons of grip but wear quickly. The steering bellcrank has some flex but it's fixable with a STRC upgrade. It's generally viewed as a good compromise between a racer and a basher.

For pure bashing around and having some fun, the full size Slash has the ground clearance and the reputation you're probably after. If you want to race with it, there are LCG (low center of gravity) chassis available to make it more like other short course trucks. I don't know for sure, but you might want to check into whether the VXL version comes with a more fortified transmission than the brushed version. I think there were some differences between transmissions on the Rustler (XL5 vs. VXL), for example, but this is a vague memory from browsing other forums.

[GregM]

Well, I think that ultimately cemented the decision to get a 2WD brushed edition Slash and retrofit it with my 12T Carson brushless combo. The transmission is all metal gears with slipper clutch, AFAIK the same as on the 2WD VXL Slash. Can't wait to order one, but before that I need to mount some more wall shelves in the corridor to make enough space available for all my R/C related stuff.

@All: Thank you very much!

[Percymon]

Good choice, but unless you are going to run that Carson brushless on 3S lipo you'll not see much difference to the stock 550 brushed 12turn motor Traxxas provide.

[GregM]

At least it should last longer than the Titan does.

But seriously, I'll try out how it performs with both stock motor and the brushless on 2s LiPo, and if there is still something left to be desired in terms of speed, I can always upgrade later on.

[Percymon]

Should be good for ca 60mph on 12T brushless and 3S !!

[GregM]

90 km/h on 3s with 12T Brushless?? Now THAT sounds MENTAL!! Great!

Finally this could be something to chase down those two HPI guys on our airport bashing grounds.

[bromvw]

Hi Greg . I know you have made your choice but can i throw this into the hat ? Recently bought a FXT Carnage truggy - the brushed version . It was brought purely as a basher for my 15 year old . However- i've fitted a 9t brushless and its transformed it . As standard it has a full metal drivetrain and a proper slipper clutch . Shaft driven 4x4 . Its a well made buggy / truck and very strong IMO - if anything its over engineered . THE big advantage was price . You can buy these RTR for around £120 . I have replaced the body with a spair wild dagger shell because the supplied one is a bit naff quality and looks wise but other than that its all standard except the motor and even that is the one FXT use in their brushless version of the same model . Almost everything is adjustable ie wheelbase , dampers and ride height as the same chassis is used on a buggy version as well . Well worth a look .

[PaPeRo]

Here's another option worth considering.

I know they are not made anymore but you could get the VW Baja Bug which uses the same chassis and is still made and buy the prerunner body/rollbar etc. and be able to enjoy two different vehicles just by swapping bodies. IMO it drives very realistic and the chassis seems to be very durable. I have one on order so I'm a little biased.

[atf300]

doesnt duratrax have that weird proprietary wheel mount ?

[PaPeRo]

Not that I know of, I believe they use regular 12mm hex. Not 100% sure though. I'll find out when my Baja Bug arrives next Wednesday.

Ok I just got it today and I can confirm that the Duratrax Evader chassis uses "pin axles" on the rear...however the wheels do not use removable hexes but instead has slots for the pin molded into the wheel hub. I tried installing standard hexes onto the axle but it doesn't fit due to the fact the shank portion extends way beyond the pin holes.

As for the fronts, it's a bearing in wheel hub design similar to the DT-02?