Interesting! Sand Scorcher front wheel came off with Nut still on.

[Antmax]

Something I have never seen before happened today. The front right wheel on my ReRe Sand scorcher came off. The wheel nut was still on so I was thinking, ****, I'm going to have to buy a probably hard to find part. When I picked up the wheel with both bearings and wheel nut attached it looked too cleanly sheared off so I looked closer and the outside edge of the stump was milled and slides into the hub. Inside the bottom of the hub was what looks like red loctite.

I had just been bashing around the street with one of my 2s lipos having just bought a programmable battery cutoff. Was pulling wheelies and doing all kinds of fun stuff, at one point I hit a bad edge and took a nasty tumble and the direct servo that was taped down came loose. Shoved it back down and few minutes later the wheel span off and was rolling across the lawn.

Nice that Tamiya thought to make the steering knucke in more than one part. Now I have to hope I can get it to stay stuck in place again, maybe with some more red loctite?

Here's a quick pic:

[OCD]

Something I have never seen before happened today. The front right wheel on my ReRe Sand scorcher came off. The wheel nut was still on so I was thinking, ****, I'm going to have to buy a probably hard to find part. When I picked up the wheel with both bearings and wheel nut attached it looked too cleanly sheared off so I looked closer and the outside edge of the stump was milled and slides into the hub. Inside the bottom of the hub was what looks like red loctite.

I had just been bashing around the street with one of my 2s lipos having just bought a programmable battery cutoff. Was pulling wheelies and doing all kinds of fun stuff, at one point I hit a bad edge and took a nasty tumble and the direct servo that was taped down came loose. Shoved it back down and few minutes later the wheel span off and was rolling across the lawn.

Nice that Tamiya thought to make the steering knucke in more than one part. Now I have to hope I can get it to stay stuck in place again, maybe with some more red loctite?

This is pretty common with the re-release front axles; Do a search on this forum and you should be able to find several threads on subsequent solutions. If memory serves me correctly, I think JB weld or a similar air-curing epoxy seems to do the trick, but be sure to degrease first.

Also, I've noticed that it is possible to 'pull' these axle stubs out of the knuckles by over-tightening the wheelnuts or adding too many shims. (Although in your case I think it's just a matter of crash damage )

[shenlonco]

Get this stuff degrease the parts and it will never come out again!!

https://www.offshore...?prod=mc-loc638

Loctite 638

For nonthreaded metal cylindrical parts such as shafts, hubs, bearings, bushings, splines, and pulleys. They prevent corrosion and fluid leakage between surfaces, resist most chemicals, allow reuse of slightly worn parts, and provide better strength than shrink-fit and press-fit assemblies.

[mongoose1983]

Yes, unfortunately this is a pretty common problem with this part. I've seen it happening on re-re Frog buggies.

[Antmax]

Thanks guys. I'll be grabbing some of the loctite 638 this weekend

[bugjammer]

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=93411&id=24931

[OldSchoolRunner]

Something I have never seen before happened today. The front right wheel on my ReRe Sand scorcher came off. The wheel nut was still on so I was thinking, ****, I'm going to have to buy a probably hard to find part. When I picked up the wheel with both bearings and wheel nut attached it looked too cleanly sheared off so I looked closer and the outside edge of the stump was milled and slides into the hub. Inside the bottom of the hub was what looks like red loctite.

I had just been bashing around the street with one of my 2s lipos having just bought a programmable battery cutoff. Was pulling wheelies and doing all kinds of fun stuff, at one point I hit a bad edge and took a nasty tumble and the direct servo that was taped down came loose. Shoved it back down and few minutes later the wheel span off and was rolling across the lawn.

Nice that Tamiya thought to make the steering knucke in more than one part. Now I have to hope I can get it to stay stuck in place again, maybe with some more red loctite?

Here's a quick pic:

Hey man what kind of shocks are those? they look great? Can we see a pic of the whole chassis?

OSR

[Antmax]

Nic mod bugjammer, If I can't get it to stick permanently enough with the loctite I might have to try that.

OldSchoolRunner: Those shocks are Tamtec GB01 aeration shocks. They cost a fortune most places. $80 - $150 a set of 4. I was fortunate enough to find a set at RC Mushroom for $40. So if anyone wants some for that price. Grab them whilst you can.

http://www.rc-mushroom.com/advanced_search_result.php?manufacturers_id=&keywords=40513&x=51&y=15

3racing do a cheap alternative shock that aren't as nice. You can buy them from integy, Here they are: http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p_prodid=11671&p_catid=344#.UKGBd4J-XQM

These shocks are pretty popular with people that want to run the scorcher. Getting the right springs is quite tricky. I'm still using the stock springs with torsion bars till I can upgrade to something stiffer. There are compatible springs from Tamiya and I believe Team CRP.

[OldSchoolRunner]

Nic mod bugjammer, If I can't get it to stick permanently enough with the loctite I might have to try that.

OldSchoolRunner: Those shocks are Tamtec GB01 aeration shocks. They cost a fortune most places. $80 - $150 a set of 4. I was fortunate enough to find a set at RC Mushroom for $40. So if anyone wants some for that price. Grab them whilst you can.

http://www.rc-mushro...40513&x=51&y=15

3racing do a cheap alternative shock that aren't as nice. You can buy them from integy, Here they are: http://www.integy.co...44#.UKGBd4J-XQM

These shocks are pretty popular with people that want to run the scorcher. Getting the right springs is quite tricky. I'm still using the stock springs with torsion bars till I can upgrade to something stiffer. There are compatible springs from Tamiya and I believe Team CRP.

Thanks man for the heads up! So the shorter one you are running on the back and the longer ones are on the front? When you got a chance I would love to see a couple pics of your setup! Thanks

OSR

[Grastens]

Funny; I remember talking about those dampers some time ago. When I ran the same setup, the exact same thing happened:

Initially my concern was that since I set up the front dampers to be very stiff, the primary damping forces were travelling through the uprights themselves instead of being suppressed by the dampers, but I used Gorilla Glue and the upright has been the same since.

It helped that the dampers have since been 'broken-in' a bit, with some give. I was running mine with a far-milder setup, however.

[Antmax]

@Grastens. Funny those pics are so similar. Good to know yours haven't come off since you glued them

@OldSchoolRunner. I found some old pics from around the time I installed the shocks.

All 4 shocks are actually identical with their lengths adjusted by spacers inside the shocks to limit travel. I removed all the spacers to make them longer and decided to mount the rear shocks a little higher, aprox 1cm higher than the original mounting point. So I drilled holes and used a longer screw and spacers to mount. The spacers on my build are basically shock bump stops from my original Axial Exo shocks that have since been upgraded. The O-Rings are basically spare SRB damper rings I had bought when trying to stop the originals leaking even when standing overnight.

You can see a better pic of how I mounted the rears below:

Seems to have worked well. My scorcher is a lot more predictable across rough terrain and keeps a pretty steady height compared to the original setup. One of the biggest problems with the stock setup is the flexible chassis which adds a lot more bounce and doesn't let the shocks work efficiently. I think it might have been Grastens that pointed this out a few months ago.

Just this week I bought some thing aluminium sheet and doubled up the chassis plate to stiffen it up and it seems better. Have only driven it indoors because of the rain so haven't gotten to try it properly outdoors.