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Posted

Picked this up $24.00 shipped on E-bay thought it was a good deal so i grabbed it.

I need to get the paint off or i may sand it smooth... what's best to get the paint stripped from the body?

http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1439.l2649

Thanks

Shen

Wow, what a deal!

I'd start with the tried and trusted Easy-Off oven cleaner, also known as caustic salts. Pop the body in a plastic bag, give it a good coating of the cleaner, and let it sit for an hour or two. After that you're going to need to find a good stiff-bristled brush, GOGGLES, and some plastic gloves to protect your hands and arms. This stuff is basically LYE, so don't mess around! Give the body a good scrub, preferably keeping it in the bag to contain the mess, and re-apply as needed. Most paint comes off in one or two tries, but sometimes a little elbow grease is needed to get the stubborn coats. Patience is key here!

Posted

Using caustic soda based oven cleaner, it's advisable to use a respirator as well, or at least use it in a well ventilated area and hold your breath while you spray. That stuff is NASTY to breathe in.

- James

Posted

Thanks for the input may try some other things that stuff sounds super TOXIC!

Not toxic, just caustic.

It's considered safe for use in your oven, which intended for heating FOOD.

Only alternative that I can think of that would be less of a hazard would be sand paper. Good luck with that :rolleyes:

Posted

I've given up on oven cleaner - it's simply too in-effective for just semi-hardening paints. I use real caustic soda powder in a plastic bucket mixed with warm (not boiling) water and a brush with plastic hairs. (brushes with hairs from animals will get destroyed in seconds). Does the job superfast and super effective. BUT!: Make sure you were some decent plastic gloves, preferably ones with sleeves, as splashes tends to burn a bit (don't ask how I know) and goggles. Also - try to avoid trying not to use it in aluminium buckets, as it tends to leave unwanted results. And do it outside. And don't let your pets try to bathe in it or drink it. And don't use it for ice-cubes when done. And don't water the lawn with it (-:

[Edit:] I should say I use a bucket large enough to contain items needing stripping. Put powder in bottom, add water as warm as it will get from the tap, slowly insert items, wait 3 minutes, start brushing with brush. When needed result is accomplished, rinse plenty with lukewarm water.

Posted

Caustic soda works fine on a ABS shells (you can get it at the pharmacy or use the stuff for the clogged drain). As the others point out, gloves, goggles and loads of fresh air. Warm water will help but not too hot as the soda heats the water as well. depending on the paint, leave it for a couple of hours and stir and brush in between. Some paint might stay untouched but so far I got lucky on most of them. And the paint on your SRB already is coming of a little.

DSC01116.jpg

DSC01118.jpg

they were all completly covered in different kind of paints, the white one probably heaterpaint.

I believe the lower right even had 4 handpainted layers, red, yellow, blue and green :blink:

Posted

Caustic soda works fine on a ABS shells (you can get it at the pharmacy or use the stuff for the clogged drain). As the others point out, gloves, goggles and loads of fresh air. Warm water will help but not too hot as the soda heats the water as well. depending on the paint, leave it for a couple of hours and stir and brush in between. Some paint might stay untouched but so far I got lucky on most of them. And the paint on your SRB already is coming of a little.

DSC01116.jpg

they were all completly covered in different kind of paints, the white one probably heaterpaint.

I believe the lower right even had 4 handpainted layers, red, yellow, blue and green :blink:

Using caustic soda, I wouldn't leave it for an hour, let alone a couple, as it tends to brittle the ABS. Put the items in, wait a couple of minutes - start massaging with the brush and see what areas needs more attention.

Also - I only do a few items at a time and not a mixed bag, as items may need different treatment.

Posted

Well I can only conclude that different countries have different strength chemicals. I tried to strip a clod body in brake fluid, after 2 weeks nothing. Then tried three whole bags of soda crystal in 2 litres of water, even putting undissolved but wet crystals on the body. Nothing after another 2 weeks !

Since then I've kept to the premium branded liquid oven cleaner with bag kits and bar my wild willy it's always worked it's magic overnight or worst case 36hrs. On willy I suspect he had plenty of layers of auto paint and clear coat, nothing would touch it - wire brush on the dremel finally won the day !!!

Posted

I think brake fluid works i used it on slot cars and also guy's say castrol super clean i think worked also on plastic bodies...BUT this is just a 3rd Runner body so i may just use sand paper and some funky ideas and give it a wacky looking paint job.

Posted

Well I can only conclude that different countries have different strength chemicals. I tried to strip a clod body in brake fluid, after 2 weeks nothing. Then tried three whole bags of soda crystal in 2 litres of water, even putting undissolved but wet crystals on the body. Nothing after another 2 weeks !

Since then I've kept to the premium branded liquid oven cleaner with bag kits and bar my wild willy it's always worked it's magic overnight or worst case 36hrs. On willy I suspect he had plenty of layers of auto paint and clear coat, nothing would touch it - wire brush on the dremel finally won the day !!!

Percy what liquid oven cleaner do you use? I have had the same problem with my Scorcher shell, it has just laughed in the face of brake fluid, caustic soda and Mr Muscle.

Posted

Percy what liquid oven cleaner do you use? I have had the same problem with my Scorcher shell, it has just laughed in the face of brake fluid, caustic soda and Mr Muscle.

I think its 'Oven Pride' comes in an orange box, ca £4 a box.

There are cheaper versions, ca £2, in a blue box with a similar brand name, which also come with the sealing bag and gloves but the chemical is rubbish, and if viscosity is anything to go by is half the strength of the orange boxed one.

Using soda crystals hasn't worked for me - even over saturated solutions did nothing on the clod shell or a Blitzer beetle I tried it on. The brake fuild didn;t touch the clod either so perhaps it was just the combination of paint type. I resorted to sanding in the end,

Posted

Using soda crystals hasn't worked for me - even over saturated solutions did nothing on the clod shell or a Blitzer beetle I tried it on. The brake fuild didn;t touch the clod either so perhaps it was just the combination of paint type. I resorted to sanding in the end,

which kind of soda crystals did you use?

(borrowed some Wiki)

Sodium carbonate, Na2CO3

or Sodium hydroxide, NaOH

its all soda but the end effect differs, number one gets your shell nice and clean with the paint still on, the other also clean but mostly without the paint.

the later NaOH is also the main working ingredient in oven pride. ;)

Posted

which kind of soda crystals did you use?

(borrowed some Wiki)

Sodium carbonate, Na2CO3

or Sodium hydroxide, NaOH

its all soda but the end effect differs, number one gets your shell nice and clean with the paint still on, the other also clean but mostly without the paint.

the later NaOH is also the main working ingredient in oven pride. ;)

I used the latter to no effect. Even fully saturated warm solution wasn't viscous like the oven pride, not really sure why but I just stick to o p now as it's relatively clean, effective and easy to get hold of.

Posted

Apols if this has already been mentioned but I've learned over the years that it depends on the paint.

Always a mess unless there's literally one coat to remove and no primer. I'd just sand.

J

Posted

Well i decided to leave the paint on ...so i used white around the fenders and molding and a little on the rear and put some decals on her ...she looks pretty good for a runner now compaired to how it looked when i got it from e-bay!!

so what do you guy's think better looking now than when in my first post about removing paint that shows original e-bay photos here?

http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1439.l2649

Now i just have to repaint the driver as it was painted in gold for his clothes!! YUCK!! see it in the link above!!

IMG_2930.jpg

IMG_2931.jpg

IMG_2932.jpg

Posted

As a runner body, there's nothing much wrong with that - you could always gloss or matt clearcoat over the top to achieve uniformity.

Could you give a coat of clear over it with the stickers on?

THANKS

Posted

Genuine Tamiya decals 'should' be ok for clearing over the top. I've done it and the end result was great. Made a vintage Monster Beetle that had dull red paint, look ace.

BUT...

I also tried it on non-Tamiya decals and they ran. TOTAL disaster.

J

Posted

Thanks guy's I am scared to do it to this thing because it has so many paints on it and it my crinckle or something.

do a small test section mate . I find halfords clear to be ok over most paints

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