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Zac_F83

Zac's F350 Highlift build

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Well my F350 Highlift will be here in about a week or so I figured I'd get an early start on a build thread.. This is my first 3 speed/highlift so hopefully it arrives ok and the build goes smooth..

I started this now to give ample time to discuss upgrades and well anything that should be checked and or take certain precautions before beginning the build

Upgrades planned: (updated 12/2/12)

crawler motor of some kind

Rubber sealed bearings

Venom 7.2v NiMH 4,600mAh 6 cell

Traxxas 2.5 waterproof ESC

Traxxas Emaxx waterproof receiver box

TopCad 8 hole alloy 1.9 wheels

Integy BFG Mud Terrain tires

Integy oil shocks for CR-01 with 10wt rear/ 20wt front oil

TopCad bull bar w/ TopCad scale working winch

Clod roll bar with working lights

aluminum shift servo mounts (going to mount steering to it also so figured better make it strong)

got this for the shift servo

http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1497.l2649

got this for the steering servo

http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1497.l2649

This radio set up

http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1497.l2649

let me know what you think or if you have any advice for a first time 3 speed builder?

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The TEU101 or TEU104 ESCs are unsuitable for the High-Lift chassis. The load is too great for these basic ESCs. Tamiya recommends the TEU302 ESC. If your looking at ESCs other than Tamiya look at a 15 turn or better rating.

Most people make their High-Lift slower with crawler motors. 35 turn CR-Tuned Tamiya, or upto 85 turn available at RC4WD. In top gear, at full throttle, the kit supplied 540 (27 turn) is fast enough to put a worried look on your face as the tall stance almost topples the truck in a corner. All three speeds in the High-Lift are full time 4WD (Bruiser gearbox is 2WD in the faster gears and 4WD in the slower gears).

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I run a 101bk in mine and it has gotten water in it 6-7 times, It stops going and then I take the bottom cover off, drain the water out and it goes again.

Most crawler guys dont like them for crawling, but mine carries on, still on the same esc so I cant complain.

In general I have had more 104's randomly pop themselves than 101's in my other cars.

I find the 101's seem to be built better, and I am suprised Mark didn't mention, but you wont want the 104 esc because of its 50%

reverse, especially in a truck that would be prone to getting stuck. Plus the propeller shafts (like all tamiya non brass prop shafts) are made from the same material

as tamiya pinions, especially if you run locked diffs all the time. May aswell spread it on your toast.

Stellamodels (Club sponsor) sell nice graphite shift gates, look the dogs danglies and stop you shifting like a muppet, will fit the skysport.

Here's my ol girl. waterlogged everything. I am currently tidying it up then going to flick it off:

NZRCRC022.jpg

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I have a 35t Tamiya CR Crawl Tuned motor that has been run only once (35 minutes), I would be keen to trade for your kit tyres ?

The motor is in as new condition. Yell out it you are interested.

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I have a 35t Tamiya CR Crawl Tuned motor that has been run only once (35 minutes), I would be keen to trade for your kit tyres ?

The motor is in as new condition. Yell out it you are interested.

I am! I don't like the kit wheels/tires so consider it a deal! (when I get the kit that is haha)

I found a Traxxas 2.5 ESC for $36 or so new and it's water proof!

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Sweet. I'm about 5000 km from home at the moment but I'll pm you when I get back in 5 days or so.

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Sweet. I'm about 5000 km from home at the moment but I'll pm you when I get back in 5 days or so.

it'll be about that til get the kit haha

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The kit shocks aren't very good, it's worth looking for alternatives. The instructions tell you to build the leaf springs with all the helper springs but this gives a very hard suspension set up. I run my Tundra with the main leaf only. A lot of people place the battery pack between the chassis rails rather than the stock location. I ended up dumping the whole radio box.

My Tundra

P2190066.jpg

cheers,

Rob

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I see I too would like to ditch the radio box and mount the batt in the chassis like you have... (and get the radio up high as possible to keep out of water)

I plan to detail mine to the max... real under coating on the chassis and under side of the bed

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Well got a few more things coming!-

Servo saver-

http://www.ebay.com/itm/350639705569?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

540 motor heat sink (if it fits haha)-

http://www.ebay.com/itm/370679229219?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

and got a graphite shift gate for my transmitter as well as a rubber sealed 41pc bearing kit from Stellamodels

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So here is my next question - Is there a way to change the location of the steering servo? I would like to flip the steering linkage to the front of the axle as well (but not have the servo axle mounted) anyone have or know where a pic or write up of that kind of swap is?

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Sorry to be one of THOSE people, but... why is this thread in rerelease discussion?

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Sorry to be one of THOSE people, but... why is this thread in rerelease discussion?

LOL didn't know where to put it I guess if someone feels it needs to move feel free... why isn't there a "builds" section??

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So here is my next question - Is there a way to change the location of the steering servo? I would like to flip the steering linkage to the front of the axle as well (but not have the servo axle mounted) anyone have or know where a pic or write up of that kind of swap is?

There are several ways of doing it. On mine, the servo is mounted upside down at the front next to the shift servo. It needed a couple of spacers and longer bolts to set it at the right height. Once that's done it's easy to run a direct link to the steering knuckle with the linkage at the front.

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LOL didn't know where to put it I guess if someone feels it needs to move feel free... why isn't there a "builds" section??

Myself and others have asked for a "Build Thread" section a few times. I wish they would do that, but it's not likely.

I am interested in a Highlift someday, so looking forward to the photos!

Cheers,Skottoman

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There are several ways of doing it. On mine, the servo is mounted upside down at the front next to the shift servo. It needed a couple of spacers and longer bolts to set it at the right height. Once that's done it's easy to run a direct link to the steering knuckle with the linkage at the front.

Could you post some pics of the steering setup in your truck?

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Jun-fac has some options . 4link kits , diff servo kit etc .

There are all sorts of places you can get stuff .

I have a chassis & most of the options you could get .

If you like i can see if i have pic's etc .

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Jun-fac has some options . 4link kits , diff servo kit etc .

There are all sorts of places you can get stuff .

I have a chassis & most of the options you could get .

If you like i can see if i have pic's etc .

Please do post pics!

I seen that! I'm going for a detailed and refined scale look-

aluminum 8 hole wheels

the Mickey Thompson licensed 1.9 tires

scratch made exhaust tips

under coated chassis/underside/inside of bed (real undercoating)

a light kit of some sort (not the MFU)

working scale wench

a more real looking roll bar (looking at a Clod Buster bar) w/ working lights

a more real looking push bar (front bumper)

steering servo relocated next to the shift servo

Still on the fence about a color to paint the body... a shade of Red, the kit like Blue, and a Silver metallic is being considered

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Could you post some pics of the steering setup in your truck?

Sorry for the delay. A couple of pics, hope they help.

Pc020001.jpg

Pc020005.jpg

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They do indeed! what length rod did you use to do that?

Also where is the shift servo?

pic of my radio setup:

Futabaradio-1.jpg

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Mail man is bringing all sorts of goodies tomorrow! Traxxas 2.5 ESC (brand new), Aluminum shift servo mounts, TopCad aluminum wheels, rubber sealed bearing kit, and the transmitter shift gate :)

The truck is scheduled for delivery on Tuesday the 11th :D

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haha ya not sure if I wanna do step by step or small/large updates... either way there are gonna be a tone of pics

Love to find a dash and a couple interior piece's for this Ford but any search I do comes up empty (seen a pic on Google of a F350 with a scale dash/interior in it) and would love to do that!

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Do you mean the rod from servo to knuckle? It's approx 35mm. The shift servo is at the rear of the gearbox. Can't remember why, must have seemed like a good idea at the time!

You might find it difficult to fit an interior because the gearbox intrudes into the cab.

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