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Will Tamiya PS paints stick to hard plastics?

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I want to paint some bits on my Holiday Buggy 2010 but really don't want to buy cans of TS paints to paint the interior, fuel cans and headlamp buckets.

Lazy & cheap, I know but ... would polycarb paints work? I have lots of odds n' end cans of PS paints and though maybe.... :rolleyes:

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i ment to say but posted too quickly , they will stick but might chip of if you hit them hard.

but its worse if you use non ps paint on lexan, so for the small details you can get away with it .

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I've shot some PS on ABS wings and then covered with a gloss clear for extra protection in the past, and it worked OK.

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I have no experience with PS on hard plastic shells, but I do on hard plastics. As long as the surface is rough it seems to stick well: I've tried it on 3d printed nylon, which has a grainy surface by itself - I scratched it with a knife and couldn't get it off, you could only see the shine/surface finish change (the scratched surface surprisingly became more shiny).

The other way around, TS/non-lexan paint on a lexan shell however is probably more of a problem. The PS paints are made to flex with the lexan, so they just stick and flex less on a hard shell. The other paints however can't handle flexing so much and on lexan will crack and flake off.

Then still, if I'd have the choice I'd take the right paint for the right shell/material :)

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I think I'll go ahead and give it a try. Galls me to buy 4 cans of paint to do the little detail bits. The fuel cans and headlights on the HB2010 really don't flex and there isn't a lot of surface area so I'm thinking it will work ok. Not a big deal if it fails, so here goes nothing.

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Keep in mind: PS-paints painted on the outside of hard plastic parts will turn out with a flat finish, not glossy.

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i ment to say but posted too quickly , they will stick but might chip of if you hit them hard.

but its worse if you use non ps paint on lexan, so for the small details you can get away with it .

THIS

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As you suggested, the finish came out matte, but otherwise it seems to be fine. I was going to flat coat the detail bits anyway, so that's no problem. I don't think any of the pieces will see heavy duty or hard hits, so the real question will be whether the paint flakes or chips with time. If it does chip then I'll strip and repaint, but I'm hopeful that all will work out well.

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As you suggested, the finish came out matte, but otherwise it seems to be fine. I was going to flat coat the detail bits anyway, so that's no problem. I don't think any of the pieces will see heavy duty or hard hits, so the real question will be whether the paint flakes or chips with time. If it does chip then I'll strip and repaint, but I'm hopeful that all will work out well.

it will likely peel if the surfaces were prepped good -if it peels, chips, what have you this paint doesn't strip off well you will likely want to buy new parts and repaint with proper paintsBest to try oven cleaner if stripping is needed at some point

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HI...Newbie Air brusher here. SO I have a similar issue. I have a few Lexan shells ( for those I'm thinking of buying/using the Proline selection of paint)...but I also have my old Monster Beetle which has a hard plastic shell. I see the tamiya PS range will not really work ( gloss will come out as almost Matt in sheen. I also want to use my air brush rather than rattle cans. Which paint range should I be using please? 

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24 minutes ago, Wranger said:

 I also have my old Monster Beetle which has a hard plastic shell. I see the tamiya PS range will not really work ( gloss will come out as almost Matt in sheen. I also want to use my air brush rather than rattle cans. Which paint range should I be using please? 

Any paint used for regular modeling. I use GSI Mr Color range. They are clearly marked gloss or not on their master color chart. They are rather nasty smelling though.

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I've used ps paint (ps16) to paint the abs spoiler on a Subaru Impreza rally car. As above, it will dry matt - but I then sprayed over it with ts clea, and got the shine from that - and prefect colour match to the shell. 

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PS is flexible and matte.  You can use it on any surface.  

TS is inflexible and glossy.  To make it glossy, the surface has to be cured hard (sort of like caramelized sugar). If you flex it, it will chip.  

So you can use both matte PS and glossy TS paint on hard shells.  On Lexan shells, though, you can only use PS paint that can flex with the shell.  

 

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6 hours ago, Wranger said:

HI...Newbie Air brusher here. SO I have a similar issue. I have a few Lexan shells ( for those I'm thinking of buying/using the Proline selection of paint)...but I also have my old Monster Beetle which has a hard plastic shell. I see the tamiya PS range will not really work ( gloss will come out as almost Matt in sheen. I also want to use my air brush rather than rattle cans. Which paint range should I be using please? 

PS is almost always matte/semi-gloss.  Even for TS, depending on the flow of the air, you could get matte-like finish on a hard shell. (droplets can half-dry as they fly. when they land, they can make a dull finish) You may need high-flow nozzle with TS paint, or you would need a clear coat.  

 

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41F18E69-2D9E-4581-8AB5-2C59C7908DDF.thumb.jpeg.7ff337cc561e4fba4452a79fd2cca4ca.jpeg
difficult to see in this picture but the mirrors and rear spoiler are painted with the same Core RC metallic purple paint. I really like Core paints as the seem to have a denser colour than the Tamiya paints

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14 hours ago, Juggular said:

PS is almost always matte/semi-gloss.  Even for TS, depending on the flow of the air, you could get matte-like finish on a hard shell. (droplets can half-dry as they fly. when they land, they can make a dull finish) You may need high-flow nozzle with TS paint, or you would need a clear coat.  

 

Hi, Yes, I have noticed that I have used the Tamiya X-7 enamel, over the top of the Tamiya fine primer spray.  Its not as gloss as I thought it may be.  What sort of clear coat would I need to use?

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I usually follow gloss paint or clear gloss with some polish to get the glass like shine.  I just use automotive diminishing abrasives such as Meguiars ScratchX on a MF towel or foam pad depending on how much I need to cut to achieve the flatness since I also detail my 1:1 cars and have ample supply of detailing arsenal.

If severely uneven, I use micromesh sticks first.  

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