Good alternative to DB01 tie rods?

[Yello 6]

ATM, I have more than a little slop at the rear wheels of my DB01 and it's due to the wear on the tierod ends. I suppose I popped them out one too many times to service the RC.

I can try to mix and match tie rods from other companies or from other models and get the ones that don't utilize those ball screws and instead directly screw onto the chassis or mount points, and that would certainly eliminate slop. But at the same time I'm afraid it'll take away a good break point in the sense that during a bad crash, landing, or cartwheel, those tie rods can pop out and deflect a lot of the impact. So in a way they're good to have.

Any suggestions? Should I just buy another set of the same tie rods to replace the ones that are worn? Or is there something else that I can do?

[super gripper 419]

If you use the grey TRF adjusters they will eliminate some slop and in conjunction use the hardened ball studs that gets rid of a lot too.

It really is just a case of keep replacing the worn out parts, having raced Tamiya buggies for a long time now there is only so much slop that can be eliminated. Go to far and you will do more harm than good.

I have driven a newly built race car with minimal slop and then raced a car that had slop from wear. I actually got a quicker lap time with the worn car.

It is honestly not worth the fret or bother.

Like I said just get the Tamiya TRF grey adjusters and the Tamiya hardened ball studs. They last a lot longer that the standard black adjusters and the standard ball studs.

After that its not worth the fret or bother unless you are going for the Euro or Worlds tittles !

[super gripper 419]

Grey adjusters

http://www.stellamod...ray-p-5140.html

hardened ball studs

I cannot find you a link so here are the part numbers:- 53969 = 5x8mm & 53968 = 5x5mm

Other people will no doubt offer other manufactures parts but I recomend these.

[Percymon 2184]

I'd do as Lee suggests - going to a screwed in tie road eyelet end is not only a pain when it comes to quick changes in the pits betweeen races but it also makes for a less flexible section in the event of a hard crash.

You could also add some foam dust shields which may further tighten up the connection and keep the worst of any grit out in future (but again replace these as they get dirty). I used Associated ones on my Top Force rebuild

[Yello 6]

Thanks for the suggestions. I have a few parts bookmarked or added to my "DB01" wish list on Ebay.

But I've found a very cheap and simple solution --- CA glue. I added a single small drop into the "cup" of the tie rod and then popped it back onto the ball.

There's no seizing but some binding does result. I mean, with the wheel on, you can't feel that binding at all. But you can feel that stiffness and binding when you're swiveling the tie rod on its own. Sems to lessen after a few runs. I also popped the rod out and popped it back in to make sure it was set properly. And some lube in the process is something I'd try next. But I'm perfectly content with the results. I'd recommend it.

[speedy_w_beans 4272]

I once used some CA glue to hold a steering knuckle screw pin in place on a Lunch Box front suspension arm. The glue worked on the screw threads, but a little bit crept down the pin itself and caused the knuckle to bind to the point the servo saver was flexing while steering. To loosen the knuckle back up without loosening the screw, I was able to apply a drop of nail polish remover (acetone) at the bottom of the pin and then work the knuckle back and forth a few times. It dissolved enough of the CA to make the steering function , but it also left enough glue behind that there was no slop between the knuckle and the pin. It actually worked really well. If you're getting any appreciable binding between the ball connector and cup, you might swab just a little acetone on the ball connector, pop the cup on, and work it back and forth a few dozen times. Then let it dry again.