NIB Blackfoot 3 build thread and mods

[Percymon 2184]

I'm liking the side profile with the Proline tyres - spot on diameter but maybe a different tread pattern would look better front on ?

Bet those willy wheels would be great for sandy rooster tails

[mr crispy 2293]

Oh yeah Percymon! I can see this truck spending a lot of time on the beach this year

Maximus, mate if you're gonna complain about the number of pics then I'll just have to post some more until you get one

CVA dampers arrived and fitted. Here's the paint I've chosen, you may just be able to make out the green tint on the cap?

The bodyshell is marked ABS. Should I give it a light rub down with wet n dry before painting? It's quite glossy so I think it would be wise to key the surface first.

Power wise I have a RC Line no limit ESC that's served me well. I read somewhere I should even be able to use this with the twin motor setup once the 2nd gearbox is in place, just need to make up the loom myself. Motor will be brushed, I've not gone brushless yet. Don't want anything too hot as I have other cars for speed. I see this being a fun, small jump truck so I might even go 35 turn. Being narrowed and quite a high COG I'll need to tame it somewhat, especially with the 4ws.

[wolfdogstinkus 1893]

So these suspension arm fit on the WR-02, WW2, VW wheelie?

Just wondering if I can make my wheelie bus 4ws? or widen/ lengthen the wheelbase?, It seems the possibilities are endless this this gearbox.

Keep posting the pictures, I want to see Maximus's build thread as well.

[mr crispy 2293]

I couldnt wait. I tested the Epsom Green paint on the underside of the flatbed. Looks nice in the light.

[Percymon 2184]

Soapy water and a scotchbrite pad work pretty well on mould fresh hard shells, then a few coats of auto grey plastic primer

[IBIFTKH 1369]

Enjoying this thread colour looks great. What are you thinking for decals?

[mr crispy 2293]

With this paint I'm thinking to use the tribal decals that come with the kit, they go on the bonnet, roof and flatbed cover. Not sure how the flames or lightening bolts will look, they put me off TBH and the "Blackfoot III" isn't a great font either. I'll have to see how it goes.

Thanks for the prep advice Percymon. I realised today this is the first new Tamiya hard body I've painted since I got back into the hobby 5-6 years ago. Upto now I've restored a GH and VLB but they needed stripping first and the plastic was very different. This body is real smooth and more flexible. All the other hard bodies I've painted we're from Kamtec, so I guess they're actually styrene sheet that's been vacformed.

Wolfy: Yep this uses the same prebuilt gearbox as the WW2 but its housed in symmetrical chassis halves. They are infact the same part and are used in the twin motor trucks like the Wold Dagger/Dual Hunter. So they're already designed to take 2 servos, gearboxes etc. The suspension arm mounts use the same fittings the TL01, M chassis's so it all seems to be easily interchangeable to suit your needs.

Your VW bus uses the same chassis as the WW2 I think. Although it uses the same prebuilt gearbox and suspension arms it doesn't have any fitment for the 2nd servo needed for 4ws built in Of course there's nothing to stop you being a cleaver sod and customing it anyway! And the longer arms would fit right on if you fancied something crazily wide. Jeeze can you imagine the turning circle of a VW Bus or WW2 with 4ws! Under 2 feet is my guess!

I'd like to see a stretched VW Bus on this BF3 chassis. Two bus bodies joined end to end with 4x4 and 4ws! It'd make Jeremy Clarkson weep!

[bromvw 744]

With this paint I'm thinking to use the tribal decals that come with the kit, they go on the bonnet, roof and flatbed cover. Not sure how the flames or lightening bolts will look, they put me off TBH and the "Blackfoot III" isn't a great font either. I'll have to see how it goes.

Thanks for the prep advice Percymon. I realised today this is the first new Tamiya hard body I've painted since I got back into the hobby 5-6 years ago. Upto now I've restored a GH and VLB but they needed stripping first and the plastic was very different. This body is real smooth and more flexible. All the other hard bodies I've painted we're from Kamtec, so I guess they're actually styrene sheet that's been vacformed.

Wolfy: Yep this uses the same prebuilt gearbox as the WW2 but its housed in symmetrical chassis halves. They are infact the same part and are used in the twin motor trucks like the Wold Dagger/Dual Hunter. So they're already designed to take 2 servos, gearboxes etc. The suspension arm mounts use the same fittings the TL01, M chassis's so it all seems to be easily interchangeable to suit your needs.

Your VW bus uses the same chassis as the WW2 I think. Although it uses the same prebuilt gearbox and suspension arms it doesn't have any fitment for the 2nd servo needed for 4ws built in Of course there's nothing to stop you being a cleaver sod and customing it anyway! And the longer arms would fit right on if you fancied something crazily wide. Jeeze can you imagine the turning circle of a VW Bus or WW2 with 4ws! Under 2 feet is my guess!

I'd like to see a stretched VW Bus on this BF3 chassis. Two bus bodies joined end to end with 4x4 and 4ws! It'd make Jeremy Clarkson weep!

Dont tempt me - i have enough bodys that fit my 4x4x4 as it is . BTW a pair of chassis half's are cheap as chips if anyone is doing the 4x4x4 conversion on a WW2 . As for the turning circle - even with the monster wheels i have its very tight . It even lifts a front wheel at full lock lol

[callisr 5]

Dunno how I missed this build! I have (well my son does!!) a Blackfoot Extreme. Really tough truck. I have it set up as front wheel drive at the mo. Just want to run it like that to see how much it differs from the rwd. i have often thought about 4wd, 4ws but never got any further than thinking about it!! Excellent thread and great pictures! I love the new narrow stance and am very keen to hear about how it handles.

Rich

[dyahipfakta 50]

I 4 wheel steered with my wild dagger but didnt like it too much unless was just plodding about. 4 wheel drive is a must in my opinion.

[bromvw 744]

Dunno how I missed this build! I have (well my son does!!) a Blackfoot Extreme. Really tough truck. I have it set up as front wheel drive at the mo. Just want to run it like that to see how much it differs from the rwd. i have often thought about 4wd, 4ws but never got any further than thinking about it!! Excellent thread and great pictures! I love the new narrow stance and am very keen to hear about how it handles.

Rich

Rich look up 4x4x4 Blackfoot on the threads index for another idea of how a blackfoot / wild dagger ( same chassis ) can also be made to look .

[mongoose1983 3335]

I love Tamiya RC cars, but most the times their track width is kind of a turn off. So I like what you did with your BF3. Excellent work, mr crispy!! I hope you will upload some video of this truck running someday!

[mr crispy 2293]

Will do Mongoose.

Ok I've been fiddling with the arms again today and im looking for your opinions. Fitted the rear TL01 lower arm on to the front to see how the extra width looks. It means making an adjustable upper arm link and a longer steering rod. It pushes the wheel out a further 10mm so now the inner spikes on the tyres are in line with the edge of the body shell.

Below Im trying this out on the front wheel on the right as you look at it.

Before adjustment, front on.

After adjustment, front on.

After adjustment, spikes in line with the body.

Hope you can make out the difference. It's subtle but will change the look more when done to both sides. It'll make it a bit more stable over the bumps, but I don't want it looking too wide. If I go for the wider stance I'll have to make up another 3 upper links and steering rods, but it will mean all 4 corners have the same set up once the 4ws is sorted.

So what do you guys think? Do you prefer wider or narrower? Worth the effort or should I stick with the narrow look?

I would appreciate your opinions chaps

Nic

[mr crispy 2293]

I 4 wheel steered with my wild dagger but didnt like it too much unless was just plodding about. 4 wheel drive is a must in my opinion.

I suspect that'll be the case with this too. 4ws will have it rolling over at anything but the slowest speeds, but its something I've always wanted to try. I wouldn't be surprised if I give it a go and then back to just front wheel steering

I could always attemp to fit the 4ws on my TL01 donor chassis for my sci-if project, although fabricating a 2nd servo mount and not catching the motor with the tyres will be a challenge.

[dyahipfakta 50]

For certain give it s go but at speed it's very interesting lol. Would be better with less aggressive rear steer like half servo travel compared to the front or something. But that is too complex for me atleast

[mr crispy 2293]

Hmmm... or maybe just fit a weaker servo so it can't push the wheels as far? That might not be so good for re-centring although once your moving forwards it show work, not so great in reverse. I suppose I could just fit a shorter servo horn so it doesn't have as much leverage as the front and turn the wheel hubs as far. More options to try out

I guess I'm thinking with the 4ws any increase in the track width is going to help it stay rubber side down.

[bromvw 744]

ok my thoughts from my own experience is that if you go to 4ws you need as wide a trackwidth as possiable otherwise it will certainly roll . In my case this isnt a problem due to the massive wheels / tires that together weigh over 3lbs and having 19mm hex extenders fitted . Crispy id go for the wide stance because you'll have motor clearance issues when you do the 4ws - just as i did . i'd also use high torque servos when doing any 4ws conversion because when its under full power it needs a good pair of servos to get it to steer all 4 wheels . Keep in mind that this is a heavy chassis - even more so if you use the alloy hop ups .

[mr crispy 2293]

Got my 2nd 15kg servo ordered... if its worth doing its worth over doing Cant seem to find any reversed servo Y leads on eBay ATM! Last year when I was looking for a normal Y lead they were all over the place, I almost bought one by mistake. So I could make my own I guess. Am I right in thinking I just need to swap over the positive and negative leads (the red & black cables into the plug) and leave the white signal wire alone? Not done this before.

Have both front wheels fitted onto the longer TL01 rear arms, steering rods and upper arms made from threaded rod.

That top down chassis shot highlights the difference between the front and rear axles. I can now fit the TL01 bumper without it catching on the tyres on full lock.

Do you know what... after all that work I'm not sure if I prefer the wider look! It must be more stable although I still managed to roll it on the grass today. I'll have to live with it a few days and see how it goes.

[Maximus Desimus 4]

Looks so good mate!

[GregM 1109]

That stance reminds me of the original Blackfoot. I think this track width should be a good compromise between scale looks, performance and stock parts compatibility. Will you keep the TL-01 bumper or will you go back to the WW2 bumper (which I liked a lot and kept you from looking straight at the front shock tower)?

[mr crispy 2293]

I will keep the TL01 bumper but its going on the back, i just wanted something on the front for a little protection in case I get a runaway. Once its 4ws it'll have the same layout front and back. Dont worry, as soon as the WW2 bumper arrives that's taking pride of place.

Yeah you're right Greg this has got to be the best compromise. I'm sure it'll look better once all wheels are done, I'm just so use to the narrow track now I kind of miss it. As you say they're all standard parts so I could easily swap back at any time.

[bromvw 744]

just stick some huge tires on it - no need for bumpers then . Seriously its looking great .

[-=Jeff=- 57]

Looks awesome.. I did the same thing.. well close..

TL01 Arms, with the longer hexes and drive stubs:

I then fitted the WW2 Rear wheels.. my BFX is 4wd with a Clod body.

[Percymon 2184]

You can't swap the red n black servo wires over, you need to actually swap the wires to the servo motor itself.

An easy fix if there's room is to mount the servo arm 180' round from stock set up - servo spindle still rotates in normal fashion but the arm action is the opposite. As you are making bespoke steering rods this is worth a try. Tamiya did this trick on the TLT-1

[mr crispy 2293]

That looks great Jeff, are they the longer axles & hexes from the WW2 chassis?

Thanks for the advice Percymon. Been trying to get my head around how to do this but couldn't visualise how it would work. Ahh, just checked and it doesn't look like there's enough room above the gearbox to turn the servo around

So reversing the wires on the servo motor, is that a simple matter of stripping it down, desoldering them and then resoldering onto the other terminals? That sounds doable to me.