NIB Blackfoot 3 build thread and mods

[GregM 1109]

TL01 Arms, with the longer hexes and drive stubs:

I'd like to know the same as mr crispy... from what kit are the longer axles, and do you have their part no. at hand?

EDIT: Got them!

The long one is from the Wild Willy 2 kit, and it is also available seperately as TG10 long wheel axle, part no. #50808.

Now I just need to know the axle length between the pin hole and the thread, and the exact diameter of that area.

EDIT #2: Hm... I also found the DB-01 rear axles #980813 to look similar, but not exactly the same.

[mr crispy 2293]

Greg, the WW2 axle and hex hubs are 5mm longer than the standard TL01 items. Hex is 10mm wide compared to the normal Tamiya 5mm width. The pics show it nicely that the extra width happens after the pin so it effectively pushed the wheel out another 5mm. All other dimensions are the same as the standard drive cups.

[Percymon 2184]

So reversing the wires on the servo motor, is that a simple matter of stripping it down, desoldering them and then resoldering onto the other terminals? That sounds doable to me.

pretty much what you said. The reason you can't just swap the wires around in the plug is the servo circuit board - presumably it has some 'one way' components.Google search on 'reverse servo wire' will probably find a decent thread - i'm sure i found one on one of those 'how-to' type websites like Fix-It or such like !

[Percymon 2184]

There are a few videos on YouTube to assist you, plus this thread has some info..

http://www.rcgroups....d.php?t=1575199

[mr crispy 2293]

Thanks again Percymon, I think that's well within my abilities.

Had a chance to try out the Maverick Scout wheels n tyres.

I'm surprised the Mac tyres are about the same dimensions without the spikes at 56mm including the treads. Diameter is 124mm. The wheels have been vented with 3mm holes for crawling so they sit a little lower.

The BF3 are a little squarer in profile so look wider but are actually pretty similar width at 58mm and 123mm with the spikes.

The Mavs look pretty good and clear the body as well as the Tamiya tyres. The Mav wheels have less offset so they also narrow the track quite a bit to 130mm inner, 245mm outer width. Looking at the rear view photo the track width looks too narrow to me, the tyres actually catch the rear bump guard there. Standard BF3 track (without the 2mm x2 washer spacers) is 150mm inner, 265mm outer width. Another thing I noticed is the Mavs weighted for crawling wheels make the truck a lot more stable and hard to roll over. Probably too much for this chassis but I'll definitely be adding a few grams to whatever wheels I run with later.

Very tempted to run with these. Might even paint the wheels in the same colour as the bodyshell and leave the beadlock rings chrome, tie them into the build better.

[bromvw 744]

The Mavs look the business IMO . The extra weight will help too .

[-=Jeff=- 57]

Info for the Drive cups and hexes:

the Longer hex drives are from the TL01 Toe in kit (Tamiya 53345)I had bought 2 kits for my son's Dualhunter and my BFX. I have the Toe in cups on my truck and used all of the hexes on my truck as well

The Drive cups are from a WW2.. I purchased Tamiya 9415592 that gave me the drive cups and the Dog Bones/Axles.. I thought of the wider stance with the TL01 like you posted but then I was unsure I could get Drive shafts/Dog bones in the correct length.

Here is a head on shot to show the width.

I just drove it in the snow this weekend and was an epic fail as the rear diff is not locked.. I am thinking of doing that or adding some thick grease to see if it improves for traction

[Percymon 2184]

That shell is crying out for a cut n shut behind the cab, another 8-10mm adding to the length, to fit the wheelbase.

Quite like the Scout wheels n tyres but way too narrow on the track front - the longer TL arms with the Tamiya wheels looked to be about perfect to me, very much in line with 1:1 over tyred trucks

[GregM 1109]

Greg, the WW2 axle and hex hubs are 5mm longer than the standard TL01 items. Hex is 10mm wide compared to the normal Tamiya 5mm width. The pics show it nicely that the extra width happens after the pin so it effectively pushed the wheel out another 5mm. All other dimensions are the same as the standard drive cups.

Many thanks for posting all those details.

[mongoose1983 3335]

[...] Had a chance to try out the Maverick Scout wheels n tyres.

I think it looks very good. But is there any chance for you to try the original Black Foot tires on that lovely Ford truck? They used to sell the same ones but made of a softer compound on eBay.

[mr crispy 2293]

Sorry mongoose, I know the tyres you mean but I don't have any myself. They would look very nice if they're the right size.

Got the Wild Willy bumper fitted today, put the TL bumper on the back and used a step screw to retain the U shaped pin, I was hoping it would look a bit like a towing hitch. I've also sorted out the camber and tow-in on the front end as it was a little off.

Man it's cold outside today! I've also started rubbing down the bodywork ready for painting. Thanks for the scotch pad advice Percymon, its just the right level to take the shine off without scoring the plastic.

Servos arrived so I need to find out which way it already turns (don't fancy soldering it up to find out it was fine to start with), fit it along with the rear steering and connect it all up.

Next I'll be stripping off the chrome work and drilling out the holes for the LED's next. Rear lights will be pretty simple but not sure how to proceed with the front rectangular headlights. I was going to fit 5mm LED's so Im thinking to drill out the centre segments of the chrome light lens, then sand the LED flat to match the chrome surface. Thing is there's no way of knowing how the finished effect will look before doing it. Bit of a risk to be taken I think.

[-=Jeff=- 57]

what was your final decision on the wheel base?

are you using the TL01 arms all the way around or?

[mr crispy 2293]

Yep TL01 rear arms fitted all round. The front is finished other than fitting a 2nd gearbox in the future. The rear is narrower due to still having the standard TL rear uprights fitted. Once I've sorted the 2nd servo and tested it I can put steering hubs on the rear as well so it'll be symmetrical front and back, same track width and 4ws.

Of course if I dont get on with the 4ws I'll either lock off the rear steering somehow or find a longer arm/upright combination.

Note: I forgot to mention I won a 2nd one of these chassis on eBay to use with my sci-fi project. The listing showed its heavily used and in bits & very dirty so I'll find out how much works involved when it arrives. But for £20 posted I thought it'd be better to have a dedicated chassis to build on. No one really hit the nail on the head and this post is devoid of pics so far... can't be having that so this should give it away.

With the TL short arms and smaller wheels its dimensions are almost spot on! Then I'll just need a dropship

[mongoose1983 3335]

Sorry mongoose, I know the tyres you mean but I don't have any myself. They would look very nice if they're the right size.

Got the Wild Willy bumper fitted today, put the TL bumper on the back and used a step screw to retain the U shaped pin, I was hoping it would look a bit like a towing hitch. I've also sorted out the camber and tow-in on the front end as it was a little off.

The Wild Willy bumper looks great. Your work is awesome indeed!

It wouldn't hurt if you could share some video of this beautiful custom Black Foot when ready and running!

[skywhelp 7]

I'm really enjoying watching what your doing with this truck, great build.

[mr crispy 2293]

Video coming soon.

Reversed the 2nd servo today following a YouTube tutorial. Pretty easy and only took 20 mins. Basically as already described in this thread you need to open the servo case and swap the motor wires as well as the two outer wires from the circuit board.

Here's the open servo case with the circuit board teased out.

I chose to cut and rejoin the wires rather than attempt soldering onto a circuit board in cramped conditions. Here's how it looked once done, I even remembered to slip the heat shrink on before rejoining everthing

While it was open I greased all the case joins and gear opening to help repel any water.

Once screwed tight the grease fills any gaps nicely and just needs wiping the excess off

Quick test and its turning in the opposite direction nicely. I'd already prepared the rear steering hubs so it only took a few mins to fit the new servo in the back, swap the hubs over and join up the steering rods.

Been a long time coming to get the front a rear track width sorted but I like how it looks. I did consider splicing the 2 servo leads together but I'd prefer to order a Y lead and leave them standard so then can be used separately. Here's me trying out the rear steering on its own.

Ran if around like this on my icy decking and it certainly makes handbrake turns a lot easier. Just ordered the Y lead so the chassis is almost finished. All it needs in the future is a 2nd gearbox and another pair of longer dogbones.

I'm a happy camper

Now I can concentrate on finishing the bodyshell.

[-=Jeff=- 57]

what Dog Bones shafts are you using for that? I assume the track is wider then the TL01? Are you uses the TL01 rear arms with steering?

[mr crispy 2293]

Yep, TL01 rear arms all round and Im using these 52mm bad boys.

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=330730432851&index=11&nav=WATCHING&nid=04891515181

The TL01 dogbones are 39mm. I did have to remove the O ring from the drive cups to fit the 52mm ones and it appears they do catch the edge on the wheel cup slots on full extension. Think that's due to them not having the bulbous rounded end. I might file off the cups a little around the "slots" or I could just limit the shock extension by a couple of mm's. Either should resolve the problem.

I'm thinking about going with this set of decals.

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=330856360743&index=8&nav=WATCHING&nid=89675704255

I think the gold side panels on the dark green flake body I'm planning will work well and have a good 80's feel to it. But what do you guys think?

[wolfdogstinkus 1893]

Can you adjust the rear so that it doesn't steer as much as the front?, mechanically or electronically? shorter servo arm?, cant reduce throw on transmitter as that would reduce front throw as well.

Will we be getting a running video?

[-=Jeff=- 57]

Thanks for the info on the dog bones.. Makes me think about doing that to my clodfoot and adding 4ws maybe.

[bromvw 744]

Yep, TL01 rear arms all round and Im using these 52mm bad boys.

http://item.mobilewe...nid=04891515181

The TL01 dogbones are 39mm. I did have to remove the O ring from the drive cups to fit the 52mm ones and it appears they do catch the edge on the wheel cup slots on full extension. Think that's due to them not having the bulbous rounded end. I might file off the cups a little around the "slots" or I could just limit the shock extension by a couple of mm's. Either should resolve the problem.

I'm thinking about going with this set of decals.

http://item.mobilewe...nid=89675704255

I think the gold side panels on the dark green flake body I'm planning will work well and have a good 80's feel to it. But what do you guys think?

green and gold - classic combination . Should look fantastic .

[mr crispy 2293]

I hope so bromvw

Realised today I still had the longer shock ends fitted to the rears and that was causing the dogbone misalignment. So a quick swap to some ends that we're about 5mm shorter (same as already on the front shocks) and there's no more problem.

Got the body rubbed down, primed and gave it a few light coats of Halfords satin black. Once dry I then started building up the layers of the Halfords Epsom Green pearlescent. I say building up as it took a good 4-5 costs before it really began to shine, almost to the point where I was worried I'd flooded the surface and it may cause drops. Thankfully I took my time and haven't lost any detail.

The pics don't do it justice as it catches the light. I'll get some pics in daylight tomorrow so it should be more obvious. Got a few bits if dust in the finish but I'm not too concerned, it'll likely pic up a lot worse on its first roll Think those gold panels will really finish it off.

[mr crispy 2293]

Still persisting down today so no outdoor pics but I have the body back together. I've tried to show off the shine of the paint.

I'm liking that. I'm wondering if not plastering it in decals but keeping them to a minimum would be better? Once the paints had a few days to harden I'll mask around the flat bed and paint the cover satin black. It looked good while I was priming it, better that a matt black. Roll bar will also go satin black but I think I'll do the spot lights in the Espom Green to match the bodywork.

[dyahipfakta 50]

For me I don't think it needs the decals at all. Afew touches and perhaps the tamiya logo somewhere but after that I wouldn't bother. Looks real nice

[bromvw 744]

Looking at it now IMO it needs maybe only the gold side decals . its a little bit 'blocky' if you know what i mean . I think the gold will highlight the curves . Then i'd leave it at that - certainly dont sticker bomb it with sponsors ect .