Sheriff

Durga and Baldre, what's the difference?

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As far as I can see, it's just the body shell (Durga got the looks), but the Baldre is nearly £30 cheaper??

I must be missing something......

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Yep, I am pretty sure it's only the shell. The DB01 chassis are identical. The Baldre for the past 5 years it's been out that i have noticed has always been a little bit cheaper to buy. The Durga looks and names better. lol. Either way trying to find original replacement shells for the Durga is next to impossible, yet Baldre shells were more commonly for sale...But GBP30 off sounds like a good buy..

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They're the same except for the shells. I personally like the look of the Durga shell more, but the Baldre shell has a little more room inside for the electronics.

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Thanks for the replies gents. Well, after looking at some Baldre pics on Google, the Tamiya marketing picture doesn't do it justice, it's a great looking shell.

I may have to invest, seems like a lot of car for the money.

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Yep, much prefer the Baldre shell, so much so that I bought one for my DB01R.

Btw, have you considered a DB01R instead, sooo much car for your money..

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the Baldre shell has a little more room inside for the electronics.

yes, a useful extra space, especially if you want to run sensored brushless systems with a chunky esc and all the extra gubbins like the sensor wire, capacitors etc. Soooooo much easier to get the shell sitting right with the baldre design.I have the Durga shell on my hopped up DB-01 , and the Baldre shell on the DB-01R

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the Baldre body shell fits the chassis much better. keeps more of the muck out and is the preffered body for Racing. Plus as the others have said there is more room for the electrics.

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Yep, much prefer the Baldre shell, so much so that I bought one for my DB01R.

Btw, have you considered a DB01R instead, sooo much car for your money..

Cheers DaveB

These don't seem available to buy new anywhere??

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Cheers DaveB

These don't seem available to buy new anywhere??

not in the UK anymore :(

perhaps look at tamico.de or modellbau-seidel.de (once their website is back up on Thursday)

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I've almost completed my DB-01R 'restoration' - completely stripped down, clean, plenty of replacement parts and a new set of wheels n tyres. The original body (already 100% black) got some car polish and a few leftover stickers - 'window' foil just cut from some aluminium adhesive tape. Not great but good enough for now..

IMG_0187_zps63105896.jpg

IMG_0188_zpsda7e8337.jpg

All told this probably owes me ca £200, which given I won the basic used chassis from Hungary eBay for £55 does seem a lot, but its got a half decent brushless system in there, more new parts than it really needed and a full set of new wheels,tyres and foams - all that does add up !

Then again it owes me less than the DB-01 ex racer Durga i bought and hopped up to almost R level (only really needs the TRF shocks) and again a new body...

IMG_0073.jpg

IMG_0070.jpg

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^ That's a sweet looking Baldre shell. You made it work with the black. And I've always liked the look of spikey buggy tires. Reminds me of a Schumacher buggy, which I had always wanted as a kid.

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BTW, Percymon, which towers do you like on your buggies? The 3 Racing or the one on the Baldre? I'd like to hop-up the rears for my Db01 so that I can get rid of the stupid limiters I put on the shafts of my TRF dampers. I wonder how the droop is like with the proper shock towers on and the limiters gone.

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The DB01 Durga uses the kit CVA shocks and 3Racing carbon fibre shock towers, its hopped up with mostly 3racing alloy bits plus tamiya universals front n rear and a tamiya one way diff up front.

The r is pretty much stock kit with carbon reinforced shock towers/TRF shocks and universals. It does have trf501 front n rear uprights and carbon reinf castor blocks.

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Percymon, the black Baldre body shell does look good with the sliver windows and stickers.

Yello, the Tamiya carbon reinforced shock towers are the better choice, the 3Racing ones are a little flimsy.

Top tip for all Baldre/Durga DB01R users - use flangeless nuts on the front wheels. stops them coming lose and destroying the inside hex of the wheels.

There is not enough, well non actually of the front axle thread coming through the nyloc wheel nut.

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Super Gripper, my front axels potrude about 1mm through the nylock front nut, exactly the same as the rears - so not an issue on my DB01R.

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Percymon, the black Baldre body shell does look good with the sliver windows and stickers.

Cheer Lee

it was a bit of a bonus to find it in the R kit box when the auction win arrived although it was very badly cut (thankfully outside the correct cut lines) and sprayed completely black. A few old decals and the window tape have ade it usuable, if not very exciting ;) 

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I approve of the paint scheme... :D

511Upgrade005_zps6731d4e9.jpg

Mind that slipper spring on the Durga, it's the old weak type and may fail on you.

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Mind that slipper spring on the Durga, it's the old weak type and may fail on you.

the spring is actually an Asscoiated B4 one - maybe not much different to the original Tamiya silver one, but it currently proveds plenty of force to the slipper. Not as chunky as the revised black Tamiya item though :D

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Top tip for all Baldre/Durga DB01R users - use flangeless nuts on the front wheels. stops them coming lose and destroying the inside hex of the wheels.

There is not enough, well non actually of the front axle thread coming through the nyloc wheel nut.

I don't mind to be the idiot asking the obvious questions... LOL. I don't think I have seen flangeless axle nuts, can you provide a little more info please or possibly a link? Mine are pretty much flush with the end of the axle, but I have rounded out the hex portion of a couple of sets of wheels. I always just thought when I "set" the wheel on the hex and tightened it down, I didn't get it aligned right. If this works, that is a great fix! Having the hexes rounded out and having to dismount tires sucks.

Thanks!!

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List of wheel nuts on ebay. Some have a flanges, some don't. Some brands are thinner than others, which is handy when you don't have much thread to play with.

Not hard to modify a set of existing alloy wheel nuts. Put them in a drill chuck and sand the mounting face to make the nut thinner, hence allowing the nylon lock part to engage the thread fully.

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I don't mind to be the idiot asking the obvious questions... LOL. I don't think I have seen flangeless axle nuts, can you provide a little more info please or possibly a link? Mine are pretty much flush with the end of the axle, but I have rounded out the hex portion of a couple of sets of wheels. I always just thought when I "set" the wheel on the hex and tightened it down, I didn't get it aligned right. If this works, that is a great fix! Having the hexes rounded out and having to dismount tires sucks.

Thanks!!

These: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Traxxas-4mm-Locking-Nuts-Nylon-1747-/130515682522

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