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moleman128

Tamiya M05 Suspension Mount broken

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Hi, finished building my M05 only to have a play on the drive and try to jump a small speed-hump and shearing off the front-right hand side suspension mount. When I say small I wasn't being too ambitious, it was about 10cm tall, if that. I've tried epoxy, it worked until I stupidly tried the same thing (I'll never learn), should I fix it the same way again and just not attempt jumps or is there a way of reinforcing the mounts so they don't break again? Thanks Adam

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hi Adam ,

i have yet to break my m05 or my rather old m03 or 04 cars for that matter , i have run some of them at the local skate parks and off road and jumped them pretty high ,over 6' without breaks ,bent the odd hinge pin but thats it ,i suspect you may have had a slightly weak molding,,

if your 05 is stock then do fit some 3racing oil shocks filled with 40 to 45 wt oil as without these the suspension shoots through its travel too quickly and the chassis takes a beating , run higher profile tyres such as S grips or M grips as these will also give more cushioning , dont bother with gluing just buy another set of A parts 51389 , they are cheap .

have fun :);)

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hi Adam ,

i have yet to break my m05 or my rather old m03 or 04 cars for that matter , i have run some of them at the local skate parks and off road and jumped them pretty high ,over 6' without breaks ,bent the odd hinge pin but thats it ,i suspect you may have had a slightly weak molding,,

if your 05 is stock then do fit some 3racing oil shocks filled with 40 to 45 wt oil as without these the suspension shoots through its travel too quickly and the chassis takes a beating , run higher profile tyres such as S grips or M grips as these will also give more cushioning , dont bother with gluing just buy another set of A parts 51389 , they are cheap .

have fun :);)

Ah right, wondered if that might be the problem, looking at it on eBay I can get one for £12 so not too much.Hopefully will when the the suspension stops destroying itself! Thanks mate :)

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Definitely second Alfa...get another parts tree..the mounts should be the last suspension component to fail on an M chassis. The stock friction dampers are **** for anything other than flat tarmac, so definitely upgrade them.

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Definitely second Alfa...get another parts tree..the mounts should be the last suspension component to fail on an M chassis. The stock friction dampers are **** for anything other than flat tarmac, so definitely upgrade them.

Thanks found some on ebay, just wondering which of my possessions to sell in order to fund this now aha, anyone fancy a kayak? ;)

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postage is not free but its not too bad , with postage added you will still be saving 15-20% on local prices , not sure where you are in the world but postage to the uk on that order will be around £7 maybe less ,i think the whole lot to uk should be about £27.50 , rcmart also trade on ebay but they dont have any m chassis parts listed at the mo.

;)

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I'n in the UK, gonna do my profile tonight. By the way is this how I reply or do I quote? Haven't quite worked it out yet :)

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If the 3racing alloy oil shocks are straining your budget and you don't want to wait for international shipping to get them cheaper, you could go for some Ansmann ones instead. £6.89 a pair from Modelsport, shown as in stock so would probably be with you less than 48 hours after ordering.

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If the 3racing alloy oil shocks are straining your budget and you don't want to wait for international shipping to get them cheaper, you could go for some Ansmann ones instead. £6.89 a pair from Modelsport, shown as in stock so would probably be with you less than 48 hours after ordering.

i tried some of them, nice enough shocks but they leaked liked mad until i replaced the diaphragms and o rings with tamiya ones, not sure if ansmann have sorted the issue on newer ones though. the 3 racing ones are the same price and far higher quality and , the A parts which are most important are only £5 , they are £13 and not not in stock at modelsport

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I'n in the UK, gonna do my profile tonight. By the way is this how I reply or do I quote? Haven't quite worked it out yet :)

i just use the quote when my reply is directed at a certain post , otherwise you can just use the reply button ;)

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i tried some of them, nice enough shocks but they leaked liked mad until i replaced the diaphragms and o rings with tamiya ones, not sure if ansmann have sorted the issue on newer ones though.

I don't know - they may have done. I haven't had any issues with the diaphragms on mine, but I agree that the O-rings aren't the greatest. When mine leaked, I also replaced them with red Tamiya ones, and haven't had any leaks since.

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Thanks for explaining the comments, makes sense now :) gonna get the chassis off ebay now and slowly upgrade to better parts as I go along, also I don't have a damper stay on my M05, will this help or is it not much use for a casual sort of driver? :)

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Thanks for explaining the comments, makes sense now :) gonna get the chassis off ebay now and slowly upgrade to better parts as I go along, also I don't have a damper stay on my M05, will this help or is it not much use for a casual sort of driver? :)

for racing the damper stay is preferred by most guys, as it makes it handle like an m03 , when tamiya designed the m05 they were trying to cure the massive understeer that the old m03 had , all the racers moaned about the understeer yet when tamiya gave them a car that had reduced understeer they all complained about it!! go figure ,

i dont use one but dont race at clubs , just with a couple of mates on car parks , i found that using 53333 , http://www.ebay.co.u...tem43b7d63ed8, blue front and red rear tames the handling nicely , if you are not already used to the m03 then it wont be such an issue as you will learn the car over time ,

one of the first hop ups to look at after bearings and dampers is this , http://www.ebay.co.u...=item1e72310f69 , and add a 3mm spacer under the ball joint on the steering knuckles (front uprights),

with all this done you will be amazed at how much fun the little m chassis cars are , totally addictive . :)

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Ah that explains it, dont think i'll bother getting that then, what advantages does the 3mm spacer bring? I struggled with that bit so I mounted mine upside down when the manual appeared to say the other way round, seems much more satisfactory that was as the spacing is smaller :) It's certainly got me addicted now just want to get out with it without being scared of it breaking for no reason :)

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with a few simple mods you can cure the bump steer , bump steer is when the car steers when the suspension in compressed , f63c8d7a-1022-4f7e-bc82-7edcc4da1d22_zpsc71d6986.jpg

i use the tb02 ball stud king pins with a 3mm spacer on the steering knuckles , i also have a 3mm spacer under the steering Ackerman plate , this gives zero bump steer , the end result when on track is the car steers exactly how i want it to rather than having to react to the bump steer i can just point the car where i want and it goes there , IMAG0143_zps000b1afa.jpg

once you have the car back up and running take it out and have fun, then as you get time and funds do one mod at a time and you will see what i mean about how much better they get with these simple mods , i wont go into them all here but feel free to pm me wit any issues you come across and i will supply you with some of the little things you can do get the fantastic m05 hooked up. also check out rcmini ,http://www.rc-mini.net/joomla/index.php i dont agree with all there findings as i dont live in a very hot country that has perfect tracks but still some very good content ,have fun ;)

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Yeah? Thanks for that, I will save up a bit a do one maybe every couple of months, done my shell today which I'm pretty pleased with! :) Just need some interesting places to take it now, got any advice on the sort of places to look for? :)

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With the 3mm spacer it looks that it makes the spacing between the steering knuckle and the steering bar smaller, I mounted my steering knuckle upside down to make the gap smaller and I'm thinking that maybe this is why my suspension mount broke. What did you do before fitting the 3mm spacer as the gap between the steering bar and steering knuckle was huge and didn't look right at all? :)

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hiya man,

not sure i get what you mean, when you say steering bar, do you mean the tie rod (with plastic ball cups) or the 'ackerman plate' (thing that connects the bell cranks up on top of the chassis , blue alloy thing on my car) ,

the reason for the spacers is the tie rods are more level and mimic the arc of the lower wishbones , always orientate the steering knuckles so that the steering arm on the knuckle is at the high position ,

even if they are on upside down it wouldnt cause the lower suspension mount to break , i think it broke because of a combination of the friction shocks bottoming out on the speed bump and a bad suspension mount moulding ,

as i mentioned i have beat my M-03,M-04 and M-05 cars hard with fast brushless systems in them and they keep coming back for more , you just got unlucky .

did you get the new parts to get it fixed yet?

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Yeah? Thanks for that, I will save up a bit a do one maybe every couple of months, done my shell today which I'm pretty pleased with! :) Just need some interesting places to take it now, got any advice on the sort of places to look for? :)

run it anywhere it will run,,ideally really flat smooth tarmac , even a small area can be real good fun, but the m-chassis has a trick up its sleeve , fit the M-05RA uprights 51425 and it goes off road , fine gravel and hard pack dirt is no problem to it and it even jumps well if you add a few grammes (45-60) to the rear end , hard pack snow is amazing fun too if you have water proofed the electronics and filled the diff with tamiya AW or for a lighter action K12 anti seize compound grease but be warned , tamiya screws and water dont mix, they rust easily so be prepared to strip the car after a wet run or even do as i do and put a drip of gt85 or wd40 on every hinge pin and screw head before and after it gets wet.

have fun :)

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Meant the Ackerman plate, sounds like I got my my steering knuckles the right way round in the end, the instructions were not that clear when I looked. Got myself a new chassis which should be getting here a couple of days ago (Bought it off ebay so all my fault haha). Going to buy a pair of springs and upgrade the front and then the back in a month or so. :)

Been running it on block paving at the moment and will hopefully be taking it to a few of the side roads my county is full of (North Lincolnshire). Got an idea for a gravel track near me that I should be able to use as no one ever goes there, will I need Rally Block Tyres for fine gravel cos they look cool as badword but might just be pointless? :)

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Those are the ones I use, yes. The shocks come filled with oil, but you need to empty it out when replacing the shaft seals, so you will need some oil too so you can refill them again afterwards. I use 15wt, but it is a matter of personal preference really.

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hi man,

the ansmann one are 'ok' , my best advice is get these , http://www.rcmart.com/3racing-m03m13lbv2-50mm-aluminum-damper-13mm-p-30414.html?cPath=389_390

they will take about 2 weeks to arrive but they are superior items in every respect , the spring rate is far more usable than the ansmann ones too which are far too hard for street use IMO , do get some 35 or 40wt silicone oil as the oil thats in them is a little light but still waaaaayyyyyy better than the stock dampers.

:)

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