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Youre a bad influence bromvw. I dug out my CC01 Bowler Wildcat project last night and started fiddling with it, I really must finish it before the summer... another job on the list :D

A little off topic but while I was checking it over I realised the CC01 chassis is basically the same configuration as that new-ish Twin Hammers rock racer! Independant front suspension and a solid rear axle. If youre brave you could chop the CC01 tub down to be a similar competitive runner with whopping articulation all round! Maybe an idea for another day.

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here is what they look like mated up

DSCN1145.jpg

DSCN1143.jpg

sorry for jumping on your thread arron

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offtopic - those screwdrivers look like scale guitars hanging up. The spanners not so scale :lol: 

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here is what they look like mated up

DSCN1145.jpg

DSCN1143.jpg

sorry for jumping on your thread arron

No problem - that looks great . Bit of insperation for when i get feed up lol

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Well in for a penny - in for a pound . Tub modified to clear the reduction box using some tin plate , hot glue and the trusty dremel . It was actually a easy job and even looks half decent - i'll take some shots prior to painting it so you can see how i did it but for now i need to get tidied up as i'am working tonight .

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look forward to seeing that buddy as i have been thinking about putting a hpi reduction unit in mine

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look forward to seeing that buddy as i have been thinking about putting a hpi reduction unit in mine

i looked at the HPI unit but it gives way too far a reduction IMO . You'll see when i post this mod that this is a heck of a lot easier to fit too.

just had a email that my G parts are on their way from Wheelspin so next job is to lock both diffs before i do any re assembly

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what motor are you going to be running buddy

i was only going to go with the hpi unit as i have one here allready

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what motor are you going to be running buddy

i was only going to go with the hpi unit as i have one here allready

Thinking 55T and the 3:1 reduction unit . Max scale speed will be around 16 KPH .

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ok bud cheers for that

i have a 80x2 in mine so it might be a bit overkill with a reduction :unsure:

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got the G parts spur and a set of stainless Screws so on my next days off i'll be locking the diffs and starting the rebuild . i'll also show how i modifed the tub to allow the reduction box to fit once it arrives .

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got the G parts spur and a set of stainless Screws so on my next days off i'll be locking the diffs and starting the rebuild . i'll also show how i modifed the tub to allow the reduction box to fit once it arrives .

Get the camera out so we can see what's been occuring so far !!!! ;)

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got the G parts spur and a set of stainless Screws so on my next days off i'll be locking the diffs and starting the rebuild . i'll also show how i modifed the tub to allow the reduction box to fit once it arrives .

Enough talking...we want pictures, we want pictures, we want p i c t u r e s....everyone repeat 3 more times. oh i just realized one must buy first before one can build else is call stealing...my daddy told me that...kidding aside we look forward to seeing the progress or end results than we'll stick it to you;-)

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Enough talking...we want pictures, we want pictures, we want p i c t u r e s....everyone repeat 3 more times. oh i just realized one must buy first before one can build else is call stealing...my daddy told me that...kidding aside we look forward to seeing the progress or end results than we'll stick it to you;-)

Give a bloke half a chance - this little thing called work keeps getting in the way of my build time :lol:

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i've had another idea on this one but i'am not sure if it would offer any real advantage. I could fit a one way diff in the front . In effect that woud give a locked front diff when going forward and full time 4x4 with the locked rear diff . When in reverse it would be rear 2wd only . not sure how this would work out on a scaler though ? The one way diff is tamiya part number 532000 . its not listed as CC-01 compatable but drops in without any modifications . Might be better just sticking with both diffs locked but i'am not sure if its worth doing . I guess not because if and when it gets stuck having all 4 wheels driven in reverse will be better to get some traction . Any thoughts on this guys ?

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I would want to keep all wheels driving on a scaler/crawler. I think with the one way fitted you could find yourself getting into areas you wouldn't be able to back out of again, especially if its nose down on an incline. Sounds more like a down grade than an upgrade to me, just can't see any benefit to it.

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I would want to keep all wheels driving on a scaler/crawler. I think with the one way fitted you could find yourself getting into areas you wouldn't be able to back out of again, especially if its nose down on an incline. Sounds more like a down grade than an upgrade to me, just can't see any benefit to it.

I have to agree having thought it over . Both diffs will be locked ;)

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i've had another idea on this one but i'am not sure if it would offer any real advantage. I could fit a one way diff in the front . In effect that woud give a locked front diff when going forward and full time 4x4 with the locked rear diff . When in reverse it would be rear 2wd only . not sure how this would work out on a scaler though ? The one way diff is tamiya part number 532000 . its not listed as CC-01 compatable but drops in without any modifications . Might be better just sticking with both diffs locked but i'am not sure if its worth doing . I guess not because if and when it gets stuck having all 4 wheels driven in reverse will be better to get some traction . Any thoughts on this guys ?

Got in late on this one but here's a few thoughts:

I've got one of these in my TXT and these are the benefits I've seen, not all of which will apply to crawling.

1. Allows a tighter turning circle than standard as the front wheels can turn faster than the rear wheels. With TXT tyres any surface is a high grip surface :) This in turn reduces wear on the front tyres and the UJs.

2. If going at speed I can do great hand brake turns with it as there is no braking on the front wheels (Not really applicable to a crawler, but great for a MT)

3. Going down steep inclines it is possible to brake hard without flipping the truck over the front axle (As there is effectively no braking on the front axle)

4. Gives all the benefits of a locked diff when going forward without scrubbing tyres in the corners.

TBH, if the car is going to be used on just loose surfaces and at slow speeds and you aren't going to go to wide front tyres you won't notice much difference over a locked front diff, and I'd agree with others that a locked front diff is the best option for what you are going to be using the car for.

I can say that when I owned it and had a racing 27 turn motor in it, the one way made the car more stable when turning at highish speed, and enabled me to do hand brake turns with it on dusty surfaces without rolling it.

My like of the one way stems mainly from using it my TXT, where I can get the same turning circle with front wheel steering only that I would normally have to resort to 4 wheel steering for, I have no wear on my front propshaft and negligble wear in the front axle, and I can get it up any steep embankment I want to without resorting to locked diffs (I run the txt with an open rear diff and the one way in the front).

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Martin i think its a great mod for tarmac running at speed but as you say thats not the aim on this scaler . I'll stick with the tried and tested and lock both diffs .

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Bit of a update . Having woke up at 5 am ( i'am a early riser by habit ) i could'nt resist fitting the G5 parts to the rear axel . Like a noob i forgot to take some 'how to ' photos but i assume almost anyone whos built a CC-01 knows how its done . Next job is the front diff - i'll lock it using one of the now spair spur gears . I'll try to remember to take a photo before i put it back together :D

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i fully intended taking some progress photos today but i'm full of cold and feeling like excrement . I'll do em tommorrow for sure but the diffs are installed so all i'll be able to show is the modified tub mocked up to show where the motor will sit with the reduction box installed .

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Typical . Just gone to take some photos and the cam needs charging :angry: . Other than the tub mod theres little to show though other than having replaced all the fixings with stainless items and while i was at it drilling the rear axel to allow for a funtional diff drain plug / lubrication point ( great idea XVpilot ;) ) . On a good note i have'nt had to replace any parts at all as everything was in like new condition . Total cost so far of locking both diffs £10 - for the G parts tree . IMO thats a bit of a result . I love the CC-01 chassis - so simple but so well engineered ..

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bit frustrating waiting for parts to arrive / come back into stock but while they arrive i've being giving some thought to the CC-01's other short comings . IMO the chassis is too light . When you mount a hard shell such as the D90 landrover i'll be fitting it will be top heavy . Add a rack/ cage and the problem gets worse . Wheel weights will help but i have also had another idea . I think i'am going to add some lead strips to the inside of the fake chassis rails ( inside the tub) . That should lower the COG nicely . Together with the reduction box and having the motor more rearwards ( 20mm ) and maybe a small second battery mounted over the front wheels to power a winch i hope i'll have enough extra weight low down to balance things out and add some extra grip at the same time .

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PICS!!!!!

Zac i wish i could but our camera is broken at the moment and i dont have bluetooth on this laptop - think it was made by Naoh and Sons :lol: so i cant use my phone either .

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