IBIFTKH 1368 Posted June 2, 2013 Very nice work, the chassis and the wheel fix are both very nicely done. Higher turn motor sounds like your best option though it's going to hurt the wheelie ability. Any plans for the paint job? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
30YrsL8r 97 Posted June 2, 2013 Very nice work, the chassis and the wheel fix are both very nicely done. Higher turn motor sounds like your best option though it's going to hurt the wheelie ability. Any plans for the paint job? Hadn't really thought about paint, as the body is second hand and a bit beaten up. Perhaps a basic clean up and some stencilled US Army stars - nothing fancy. I've modded a Wild Willy head into a zombie, so I'll probably stick him in it and add some aluminium rod rolls bars. I've been looking at doing a low-T pinion mod as I have lots of silver cans and a 15T pinion from my Sand Scorcher - I believe these are compatible, pitch wise. By my (probably wrong) calculations, that should take the load on the motor down by about 20% from the 19T pinion. Actually, come to think of it, I have a Midnight Pumpkin pinion around here somewhere.... EDIT: Looks like the Pumpkin is 32 pitch (0.8 module) and I need 48 pitch (actually 0.6 module), which the Scorcher is. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dyahipfakta 50 Posted June 2, 2013 Pinion mod is what I wouldn't mind trying but wanna get a spare chassis first for when I balls it up. My bruder off road tl01 needs more torque. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
30YrsL8r 97 Posted June 3, 2013 Pinion mod is what I wouldn't mind trying but wanna get a spare chassis first for when I balls it up. My bruder off road tl01 needs more torque. Here's how I just did it to fit my 15T Sand Scorcher pinion to the TL-01: I tried one bolt into the motor using various holes and figured out that the top 19T pinion hole meant that the motor rotated vertically the least (vertical rotation is a problem because the motor makes contact earlier with the chassis, so it needs more cut away). With this bolt in, I looked through the lower holes and guessed (scientifically, of course) that the new lower hole needed to be "about" half way between the 19T and 23T holes. I inserted the motor bolts into these two holes and drilled a 1.5mm hole from the other side, then a 2.5mm hole and finally a 3mm hole. The bolts were there to stop the drill bit breaking through the plastic "walls" into the existing screw holes. Once the new hole was drilled, I cut away some of the chassis on the other side to make a space for the screw head. Should have used a soldering iron to melt it instead as I actually cut through into the gearbox slightly. I then inserted some 3mm diameter sprue into the original 19T and 23T holes to stop the bolt breaking through (one these can be pushed out if I want to go back to 19T and put in the new hole instead). Another 3mm hole in the small removable section of chassis on the motor side finished the drilling. I also cut away (more than) enough of the motor surround to allow the pinion to get close enough to the spur. That bit's a mess. When this was all bolted back together, the pinion was WAY too tight on the spur. I took it apart again and ran the drill bit through the holes a few times to loosen them up a bit. Very happy with the feel of it now. Put it all back together and ran it outside. WOW. First blat of the throttle and it almost back-flipped. It will now wheelie from a rolling FORWARD start. Brakes (that were very poor before) now flip the WW over if I use them hard from high speed. Motor still gets pretty hot, but perhaps not as hot or as quickly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dyahipfakta 50 Posted June 3, 2013 That doesn't look too bad at all. Now you have experience fancy doing mine lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
30YrsL8r 97 Posted June 3, 2013 That doesn't look too bad at all. Now you have experience fancy doing mine lol You wouldn't ask that if you knew the mess I made cutting out the motor cavity. Now I'm going to have to source another rear chassis section before anyone sees it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
30YrsL8r 97 Posted June 9, 2013 I've now replaced the silver can 540 motor with a Johnson 550 motor from a cordless drill (see this thread: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=70259&hl=) I've also replaced the worn plastic bushings with ball race bearings in all the wheel hubs, which has made a dramatic improvement in wheel stability. This evening, thanks to dimensions from mr crispy, I've started making my custom roll cage out of aluminium tube from B&Q and some wood screws: I didn't add the slight backward sweep of the stock WW front bar yet, as I'm not sure I should pre-stress it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SteveU30 1011 Posted September 7, 2013 Just read the thread right through, some great engineering here. Any more updates looming? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wild Willy Speed Shop 73 Posted September 8, 2013 Any more updates? Looking good. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
30YrsL8r 97 Posted September 8, 2013 Been kind of distracted by other projects, including my Lunchie build, but I have made the rear roll bar and a strut to connect the two - working on how best to secure it together without compromising the strength (too much). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
