Next project

[Zac_F83]

now that my Traxxas Emaxx is done I need a new project- In searching bodies for my Emaxx I found a Parma 97 Dodge Durango poly body in 1/10th (I drive a 99 Durango 4x4 daily)

So I'm thinking a CC01 kit is in order and do up a replica of my actual truck.. Do the CC01's handle HP ok? What gear pitch is the pinion and main spur?

[bromvw]

i'am building a CC-01 D90 scaler Zac but the guy i bought the donner chassis from ran it as more of a on road SUV . Having seen some videos he shot of the CC-01 it can handle speed just fine . The gearbox's are really tough . Dont know if personally i'd use a brushless set up on one of these but i think it would cope . The only weak point looks to be the prop shaft but stronger and better made replacements are readily available from the usual after market sources .

[Zac_F83]

i'am building a CC-01 D90 scaler Zac but the guy i bought the donner chassis from ran it as more of a on road SUV . Having seen some videos he shot of the CC-01 it can handle speed just fine . The gearbox's are really tough . Dont know if personally i'd use a brushless set up on one of these but i think it would cope . The only weak point looks to be the prop shaft but stronger and better made replacements are readily available from the usual after market sources .

Sweet I don't plan on a brushless setup - I seen that also (prop shaft) I was able to use Traxxas Slash 2wd half shafts on my old high lift so I will look into that! Thanks!

[markbt73]

The shaft is fine. It's steel and very strong. The aluminum pinion wants replacing with steel; it's 0.6 mod, also known as "metric 48 pitch." It only has holes for 16 or 20 tooth pinions on the motor mount; i'd stick with 16 unless you plan to run small touring car size tires. Other than that, your only problem will be keeping it shiny-side-up. The CC01 is very top-heavy and tips over easily.

[Zac_F83]

The shaft is fine. It's steel and very strong. The aluminum pinion wants replacing with steel; it's 0.6 mod, also known as "metric 48 pitch." It only has holes for 16 or 20 tooth pinions on the motor mount; i'd stick with 16 unless you plan to run small touring car size tires. Other than that, your only problem will be keeping it shiny-side-up. The CC01 is very top-heavy and tips over easily.

So a 48P pinion would work?

[speedy_w_beans]

No, 0.6 mod is unique and not close to standard 48 pitch. http://www.robinsonracing.com/catalog/32pitchpinion.html#metric

[Zac_F83]

No, 0.6 mod is unique and not close to standard 48 pitch. http://www.robinsonr...ion.html#metric

Thank you!

[JeepnMike]

Thank you!

Careful where you order 0.6 mod pinions from! A couple of American sellers I have found consider .06 mod and 48 pitch as the same and even have given them the same part number (despite the different number from Robinson). You are best to order from Robinson directly or Tower actually seems to have them sorted correctly.

My local hobby shop guy suggested ditching the spur gear (.06 mod) and throwing in a 48 pitch spur gear just to make things more consistent with the rest of what I run. I am sticking with what my car came with, but just another thing to consider.

[Zac_F83]

Are the stock coil springs pretty soft? I am thinking of getting HPI 88135 springs for it to soften the ride a bit.. as well as 30wt AE shock oil..

[bromvw]

the standard springs and shockers are fairly good on a CC-01 . Adding a 4 link set up ( Junfac or GPM ) makes it a very capable scaler / crawler . I'd try the kit items first before buying any hop- ups. the only other mods that make any real improvement are chopping the front brick off , fitting a better steering set up ( GPM ) , taking the little nipple thingy off the C hubs to improve steering throw and locking the diffs . Everything else just seems to be Bling and money throw away in terms of making it any better . Its already pity good as it comes to be honest IMO and you can do most of the DIY mods without having to spend a penny ( dime )

[Zac_F83]

10-4- I also picked out the 1116 Robinson Racing 16T metric pinion

[mr crispy]

Really helps to add a little weight into the wheels so it stays the right way up for longer.

[bromvw]

Really helps to add a little weight into the wheels so it stays the right way up for longer.

What you think - about 75 grams per wheel ?

[XV Pilot]

Another thing to note with the CC01 is that, while the gears themselves are very strong, they put a lot of stress on the gearbox covers when running a torquey motor, to the point that the gearbox cover screws can start to pull out. Most people who are aware of the problem either build the kit with longer self-tapping screws to hold the gearbox covers in place, or drill out the holes and keep the covers in place using M3 nuts and bolts.

[Zac_F83]

Anyone know what length the rods are in the aftermarket rear 4 link kits on eBay?

EDIT never mind they require aluminum shock mounts and aren't included..

here is the order so far-

73 Bronco CC-01 kit (likely sell the body/ light kit to offset kit costs and donating the stock motor to my LB)

(10) 5x11 bearings (have 4 spares)

(2) 5x8 bearings (have 1 spare)

(2) 6x12 bearings

(2) 10x15 bearings

(20) 5x8x.010" fiber washers

RRP 16T pinion

Hitec STD servo

Traxxas 3x50mm turnbuckles (from servo to linkage)

Traxxas 3x36mm turnbuckles (tie rods)

Duratrax 20T brushed motor (cheapest 540 on omnimodels.com where I'm ordering everything- next cheapest is a 27T 550)

Plan on donating my TQ2 Traxxas radio and a Duratrax 7.2 4200 battery to get it up and running

[bromvw]

Another thing to note with the CC01 is that, while the gears themselves are very strong, they put a lot of stress on the gearbox covers when running a torquey motor, to the point that the gearbox cover screws can start to pull out. Most people who are aware of the problem either build the kit with longer self-tapping screws to hold the gearbox covers in place, or drill out the holes and keep the covers in place using M3 nuts and bolts.

So would that apply if i was to lock both diffs and run a 55t > motor ?

[XV Pilot]

Yes it would indeed - that is the sort of setup popular amongst the Scale RC crowd from whom I heard about the issue. I run locked diffs and a 60t motor with 15mm self-tappers keeping the gear covers in place on mine, and that seems to be holding quite nicely.

[Zac_F83]

I seen in the directions on tamiyausa that the shock rods don't have removable pistons- could one drill small holes in them to make the ride a bit softer?

Parts/kit are ordered! I opted out on the 20T motor as it doesn't need to be fast LOL

[XV Pilot]

You could, or you could just run thinner shock oil, which might be easier. The metal pistons are pretty tough - I think they have been heat-treated for hardness along with the shafts.

Good call on the motor. The CC01 is pretty quick even with a stock 27t silver can. If you want to slow it down for a more scale-like offroad experience, you might consider a motor in the 50+ range.

[bromvw]

Yes it would indeed - that is the sort of setup popular amongst the Scale RC crowd from whom I heard about the issue. I run locked diffs and a 60t motor with 15mm self-tappers keeping the gear covers in place on mine, and that seems to be holding quite nicely.

Nice one - many thanks for the tip .

[bromvw]

Anyone know what length the rods are in the aftermarket rear 4 link kits on eBay?

EDIT never mind they require aluminum shock mounts and aren't included..

here is the order so far-

73 Bronco CC-01 kit (likely sell the body/ light kit to offset kit costs and donating the stock motor to my LB)

(10) 5x11 bearings (have 4 spares)

(2) 5x8 bearings (have 1 spare)

(2) 6x12 bearings

(2) 10x15 bearings

(20) 5x8x.010" fiber washers

RRP 16T pinion

Hitec STD servo

Traxxas 3x50mm turnbuckles (from servo to linkage)

Traxxas 3x36mm turnbuckles (tie rods)

Duratrax 20T brushed motor (cheapest 540 on omnimodels.com where I'm ordering everything- next cheapest is a 27T 550)

Plan on donating my TQ2 Traxxas radio and a Duratrax 7.2 4200 battery to get it up and running

Nice - however you could save by getting a stainless screw set and the bearings as a kit from RPC racing . The jucfac 4 link set with the skid guard is also worth having .RChobbie4life have the Junfac kit in stock - part number is 100210

[mr crispy]

What you think - about 75 grams per wheel ?

Something like that. I got some scrap roofing lead off eBay and cut it into strips that fit around the wheel, held on with tape. Drilled a 3mm hole through it and the wheel so it'll still let the tyre deform for crawling. Think I just used 1 layer of lead per wheel and that helps stabilise it a lot. For full on crawling the advice is usually to add twice as much weight to the front wheels as you have it the rears, helps keep the weight forward when climbing up a slope.

I've not noticed the gearbox screws backing out on either of my CC01 and thats with a 50T & 70T motors with locked rear diffs but I was aware of the problem so kept an eye on them. If it became a problem I was going to use machine screws in place of the Tamiya jobs as they have more surface area on the threads. Actually thinking about it, its probably be worth fitting then now before it becomes an issue

[bromvw]

Something like that. I got some scrap roofing lead off eBay and cut it into strips that fit around the wheel, held on with tape. Drilled a 3mm hole through it and the wheel so it'll still let the tyre deform for crawling. Think I just used 1 layer of lead per wheel and that helps stabilise it a lot. For full on crawling the advice is usually to add twice as much weight to the front wheels as you have it the rears, helps keep the weight forward when climbing up a slope.

I've not noticed the gearbox screws backing out on either of my CC01 and thats with a 50T & 70T motors with locked rear diffs but I was aware of the problem so kept an eye on them. If it became a problem I was going to use machine screws in place of the Tamiya jobs as they have more surface area on the threads. Actually thinking about it, its probably be worth fitting then now before it becomes an issue

i've also had a idea about fitting one of rc4wd's ultra compact reduction units to the motor . It just bolts on to the end of the motor can and only adds 18mm to the lengh . With some work with the multitool it would fit without any major issues . Dropping the motor speed by 3:1 or 4:1 would add a lot torque and give the CC-01 a lot more crawling ability IMO and better scale speed on the trail .

[Percymon]

I seen in the directions on tamiyausa that the shock rods don't have removable pistons- could one drill small holes in them to make the ride a bit softer?

thinner oil is an easier option

or file a flat on the damper piston edge - easily done and can be varied to replicate one,two,three,four hole piston options

[Zac_F83]

Well apparently I bought the wrong kit - I didn't know there was 2 wheelbases for these chassis' - SO it's currently FWD LOL

I see what the few guys said about top heavy - especially if it's moving faster than a crawl-

no real build pics BUT got a couple- one of shimming the MASSIVE amount of play in the rear axles and a mock up of the body

Shimming took 1 plastic 5x8 bushing and 1 Traxxas .005" shim on each axle IMHO it needs it or you could strip the ring/pinion gears with decent HP