Which Connectors for ESC to Accept Turnigy Trackstar Plugs

[30YrsL8r]

This motor arrived today from Hobbyking today (excellent service from Hong Kong):

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=27867

It's fitted in the back of my Frankenscorcher SRB now, but there are no connectors on the ESC for it.

Can anyone point me in the direction of a UK supplier of the appropriate connectors?

Thanks.

[Percymon]

I'd guess they are 3.5mm or 4.0mm bullets..

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__121__377__Hardware_accessories_-Battery_ESC_Motor_Connectors.html

ypu'll have to measure the diameter of the male plug on the motor to be sure

[Gruntfuggly]

Search ebay for "brushless motor connectors". It's hard to work out which size you need though - maybe somebody else with that motor can tell you...

Because they come as a set of male and female, you can always get a set of three of whichever size you like and replace the ones on the motor if the size is wrong...

[Gruntfuggly]

Ninja'd by Percymon.

[Percymon]

I'd have guessed the 3.5mm ones at first, given the turn of the motor, but then i found this motor at H'King stating 4mm bullets..

http://www.hobbyking...0kv_16_5T_.html

[alfagta]

they do look like 3.5mm but i would advise you grab some 3.5 and 4mm plugs and tubes off ebay ,search 3.5mm or 4mm bullet connectors(cant give links as the rules say "NO" ) , they are cheap as chips and handy to have in the parts box ,

[94eg!]

I'd have guessed the 3.5mm ones at first, given the turn of the motor, but then i found this motor at H'King stating 4mm bullets..

http://www.hobbyking...0kv_16_5T_.html

That's a 540 motor though. The motor the OP posted is a 380 sized motor with a built in heatsink, so it still could be 3.5mm. Honestly it might be best to contact Hobbyking if you can't stop by your local hobby store to compare it something else.

[alfagta]

That's a 540 motor though. The motor the OP posted is a 380 sized motor with a built in heatsink, so it still could be 3.5mm. Honestly it might be best to contact Hobbyking if you can't stop by your local hobby store to compare it something else.

hi man, they are actually 440 size with a heatsink can , not sure where the 380 rumour came from , i have killed and stripped a few of them and you can fit a 380 brushed motor inside the can. agree that the one in the pic does look like it has 3.5mm but as its a high voltage motor it could be deceptive as the wire will be heavy gauge to cope with the huge voltage capability , as suggested measure the plugs or buy both sizes

[djmcnz]

they do look like 3.5mm but i would advise you grab some 3.5 and 4mm plugs and tubes off ebay ,search 3.5mm or 4mm bullet connectors(cant give links as the rules say "NO" ) , they are cheap as chips and handy to have in the parts box ,

Rules don't say "no" anymore (unless they've changed back?). If you're helping someone out, not harassing a seller and not whoring your own stuff then links are okay now (which is great).

[alfagta]

Rules don't say "no" anymore (unless they've changed back?). If you're helping someone out, not harassing a seller and not whoring your own stuff then links are okay now (which is great).

superb, thanks man , most useful when trying to help someone .

[94eg!]

hi man, they are actually 440 size with a heatsink can , not sure where the 380 rumour came from , i have killed and stripped a few of them and you can fit a 380 brushed motor inside the can. agree that the one in the pic does look like it has 3.5mm but as its a high voltage motor it could be deceptive as the wire will be heavy gauge to cope with the huge voltage capability , as suggested measure the plugs or buy both sizes

Hmmm, interesting. Though greater voltage means you can supply the same power with less amperage. This lower amperage can allow for smaller wire & connector to transmit the same power. This means smaller connectors could still work. Just throwing that out there. I really can't tell from the pics. Personally I think bullets on a motor are silly (except rare & vintage equipment). Solder EVERYTHING directly and be neat about it. If you want to change it later, do it again. I understand not everyone enjoys wiring though.

Inspiration:

[GregM]

Though greater voltage means you can supply the same power with less amperage.

I think I know what you're trying to say, but please allow me to be a little bit more precisely and to throw some basic physical laws into this thread

Ohm's law: R = U / I

Let's keep it simple an put all other specific conditions and non-linear effects on resistance aside, as we don't need them in this case

Let's assume a Tamiya battery connector is specified to be able to withstand a max. current draw of 15 amps. We want to use a power supply of 7.2 V (6-cell NiMH). The motor we want to use is a Mabuchi RS-540-SH model #7520 which draws 12.1 Amps at maximum efficiency at 7.2V. (2.4 A at no load, 70 A at stall)

R = U / I = 7.2V / 12.1 A = 0.59 Ohm

Then 0.59 Ohm is the resistance of the motor. Let's try a higher voltage of 11.1 V (3s Lipo) and see what the current does:

I = U / R = 11.1 V / 0.59 Ohm = 18 A

Oops. Looks like the current exceeded the allowed maximum of 15 A and the connector burned out like a fuse.

By using Ohm's law, you can calculate what type of connectors you need, depending on the voltage of your power supply (battery) and maximum current draw (motor) at a given voltage. Ergo: The same motor will draw a higher current when connected to 3s, than it would do with 2s.

[30YrsL8r]

I didn't realise this question provoke so many responses. I've got some 4mm connectors that I use for my ESC-LiPo connections and, comparing these with the motor connectors, it looks like I need 3.5mm. Is there a special name for this type of connectors? By the way, I went for this motor rather than the ones with the solder tabs that I could have soldered straight on to because I couldn't be sure the tabs wouldn't short on the SRB gearbox...

[Percymon]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l2736&_nkw=3.5mm+gold+bullet+connector

[Zac_F83]

I use Traxxas high current connectors when Lipo's are used - they're impossible to hook up backwards

as for direct soldering wires from ESC- motor I would not do that... then to clean the chassis you need to break out the soldering iron... those gold connectors or some high current connector should be used on the motor

[94eg!]

Why would you need to un-solder wires to clean the chassis?

[Zac_F83]

Inspiration:

The pic you posted is proof - to clean this chassis you would need to unsolder the wires from the ESC/motor to remove the ESC/motor UNLESS you go through the extra time of removing the shock tower

To me it's not worth it... I will run connectors from the ESC to the motor.. yes it makes a clean install not having them but the work needed to remove the setup out weights the benefit

[94eg!]

Lol, a makeup brush or a tooth brush is more than enough to "clean" any chassis. The chassis you're looking at had even been run before that pic was taken. So I still don't know what you're talking about.

[Percymon]

Lol, a makeup brush or a tooth brush is more than enough to "clean" any chassis.

well that depends where you're running the car I guess

Everyone to their own but i'd prefer the connectors so you can swap out a motor or ESC fairly quickly

[Zac_F83]

I'm talking about water and non waterproof electronics.. depending on where you run or what weather you're running in chances are you'll need water to clean a/the chassis a dry brush won't do it alone

to me it would be easier to remove the electronics plug the motor hole in the gear box and wash the chassis in a sink or tub... that is how I have always cleaned my RC's waterproof electronics or not

[alfagta]

Lol, a makeup brush or a tooth brush is more than enough to "clean" any chassis. The chassis you're looking at had even been run before that pic was taken. So I still don't know what you're talking about.

now you are just being pedantic !

[djmcnz]

to me it would be easier to remove the electronics plug the motor hole in the gear box and wash the chassis in a sink or tub... that is how I have always cleaned my RC's waterproof electronics or not

Including diffs and running gear? I don't imagine that full water immersion is the best way to clean a vehicle...

About the connectors - my main vehicle has no connectors from the ESC for the motor but does for the saddle packs which is a configuration I like. I do however keep my motor wires long enough and "untangled" from the chassis so I can move the motor/ESC independently without de-soldering. It's a good compromise for me and that's the change I'd make to 94eg!'s approach, I'd run the wires on the outside of the shock tower - function over form in this case for me, otherwise it (his) looks real sweet.

Here's mine, I have a paired motor/ESC in here - I have only ever disconnected twice in 5 years, once to swap the X12 8.5 for a 6.5 then again to swap the X12 6.5 for an X20 6.5. I could remove both from this vehicle to clean it very easily if I needed to without the soldering iron.

[Zac_F83]

Well I didn't mean dunking it in water haha I just mean washing it off with water.. Traxxas recommends a garden hose or shower to wash their cars, of coarse removing the electronics before doing so

your setup seems to work (above) but I would still run connectors

[94eg!]

I tried hitting a rolling chassis with the garden hose ONCE! It pretty much ruined the diff in my Dyna Storm as well as half of the ball bearings. Of course here in the Las Vegas desert, we don't ever worry about running in the wet. And the micro-fine dust is easily washed into sheilded ball bearings. Compressed air, a moist toothbrush and dry makeup brushes will clean any area that needs it. Also electronics spray cleaner is a handy thing to have around. I like CRC Quick Dry.

[MadInventor]

Lol, a makeup brush or a tooth brush is more than enough to "clean" any chassis. The chassis you're looking at had even been run before that pic was taken. So I still don't know what you're talking about.

I guess he's talking about this :

This is the other end of the cleanliness spectrum, I needed the hose pipe on this one.

I can see what you mean about the hard wiring. It looks very neat, but it can be a problem if you need to chop and change electronics between chassis, for example using a very high power ESC in more than one car as the cost may be prohibitve to install them in all the cars with HiPo motors. It also adds to the time required if you need to swap out a motor.