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Posted

Hi all,

I've been with Tamiyaclub now since it's very start. I'm the 4th ever member and I remember helping Chris to upload cars to the site when it was first being tested. A long time Tamiya collector I have not always been around here to help out with the moderating tasks and duties. My last job (23 years in the RAF) kept me away from the site and Tamiya in general for sometimes years at a time but I always seem to bounce back here. New releases pass me by and limited edition kits make me wish I had kept up with the times.

So, the reason for the thread. I have over the last year added a large amount of rare and old Tamiya Nitro to my collection (TGX, TGS, TNS, TG10, TG10 Mk 2, TG10R, TR-15t, TNX). From the first kit to the most recent I have a lot of experience in restoring, building and running these rare Tamiya cars. The TR-15t with The Toki branded .15 to the VR-15S FR fan cooled OPS engine I have built and restored them all in various chassis.

I have helped members out with parts and advice on anything nitro and would like to offer that help to everyone. So if you have a query regarding Tamiya Nitro, what goes where, what parts are available for Hop-Ups, where to get them etc then please do get in touch. I have a load of experience, lots of parts and it's only right I give a little back to the site and it's members.

Looking forward to your questions and any help I can give.

Adam (Acprc)

  • Like 3
Posted

Hi Adam - I've got an HPI Rush Evo that won't start. Nitro isn't really my thing - I only bought it cos I fancied a change, but I never managed to get it to running I haven't tried it for a year, but I really ought to try again - got any suggestions?

Posted

Well. The Rush Evo suffers from one serious issue, the slipper clutch. Like all nitro cars the lack of any real care will soon give you problems. So my advice is this:

Reset the engine high and low speed needle to the factory settings. HPI has these on the web site.

Put some engine after run oil into the cylinder under the glow plug and pull the engine over to work the oil into the engine.

Put a new glow plug into the engine. O.S A8 is a good all purpose plug.

Make sure you have a well charged glow plug heater

Make sure you have fresh fuel, remove any from the tank that is left over as the nitro methane evaporates over time leaving the castor oil.

Prime the engine approx 8 times with the tank plunger, apply the heater (with the throttle set just above idle on the TX) and pull smartly 2 or three times on the recoil.

Once started feather the throttle stick to get engine to idle then leave it to warm for a few mins before trying to rev it madly.

Remove glow heater and play.

The slipper clutch we can sort once you get it running!

Any problems post back your symptoms

Posted

What a top bloke and what a great offer.

I love Nitro and I hope to buy a Mini and I look forward to picking your brain soon!

Tamiya TG10 1/8 scale Mini is a fav of mine. http://www.tamiyaclu...id=115784&sid=4

Based on the 1/10 scale TG10 Mk1 chassis with larger wheels and a larger scale body. I have a TG10 mini and loads of TG10 chassis incluing 10 Mad Bisons. Happy to help if you get one.Incidentally, TG10 chassis is cheap, buy one and then convert it into a mini with wheels, tyres and bodyset. When I asked on the site for a bodyset I got 6 offers so plenty about.

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi Adam - I've got an HPI Rush Evo that won't start. Nitro isn't really my thing - I only bought it cos I fancied a change, but I never managed to get it to running I haven't tried it for a year, but I really ought to try again - got any suggestions?

As you've never actually got it going before, refer to the manual for the engine 'run in' instructions. Failing to run the engine in for the first few tanks of fuel will greatly decrease the engine's life.

One thing you certainly do not do is 'rev it madly' for the first few tanks. I don't even rev the engine at all on the first tank, just get it running, and keep it running at idle until hot, then shut it off. Repeat until the first tank of fuel is gone.

Posted

another couple of tips ,

if its very tight and the pullstart is taking a lot of pull (which can damage the pull start and one way bearing) it can be a good move to undo the glow plug by 1/4 turn until it fires ,then re-tighten ,

put the car on a brick or similar during break in as the wheels must be free to turn , if you dont you risk melting the spur gear if its plastic ,

check all the engine mount bolts while the engine is hot as they can work loose due to vibration and metal expansion , it can be worth doing the same with the head bolts and clutch retaining bolt too,

have a cup of water handy and drip water on the top of the head every minute or so, it should take 3-5 seconds to evaporate , any less and its too hot , richen the mixture until you get a good steam of oil smoke from the exhaust and you get it to the 3-5 second window,

dont run it in on a nice patio or similar or you will stain it with oil,

have fun :)

Posted

If you got it second hand it has prolly been ragged and has little or no compression. How easy is it to rotate the flywheel? Does it pop? Then replace the glow plug and give it plenty of chance to catch. Rebuild kits aren't that much for a hpi.15 engine so it would probably benefit from a rebuild anyway.

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