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Wild Attack Hornet

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Here is my project of a 1:10th of a 1:1 trying to look like a 1:10th?

The idea is that the Fav and Wild One look as if they were modeled on a 1:1 Chenworth sand rail.

My idea was to make a model that looked like a 1:10th of a Chenworth that had been built to look like a Hornet.

basically it is a Wild One rere chasiss,Fav rere bonnet and roll cage,Frog rere gearbox and Hornet rere wheels ,tyres and decals.

The drive shafts are Frog UJ's and the front uprights are carbon reinforced F1 fellas to remove the glaring white nylon look.

The Wild One G parts are a nightmare to paint as they go "furry" if you try to sand them prior to painting and paint doesnt adhere if you dont sand them.It does say in the manual that they are nylon? or such and i wondered why Tamiya didnt just make a Z part sprue with the Drivers helmet and front spots in regular plastic for the re-release version? oh well.

Im thinking i'll get a Wild One roof at some point as it matches the panels on the bonnet and i know the Fav roof bar will NOT take paint for very long as it is quite rubbery plastic and it would just crack off.

Heres the idea so far..

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Add the 50 Cal. and you have a FAH or MASH...mad stinging hornet. Good use of mix parts resulting in one of a kind.

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I Love that! I have been having bad thoughts about FAV's and Wild Ones just lately. You just made them worse! Excellent and inspired.

Can I just ask what the advantage is of using the frog G Box?

Cheers,

Rich :)

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Good job! If you want to keep the FAV roof, you can either use black vinyl sheet or black heat shrink tube.

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Thanks for the likes!

For Callisr, i used a Frog gearbox as i liked the idea of metal sides to the gearbox,but more so,because i have modified the diff outputs on this one.

The Fav/Wild One diff has been said to be a random design for reliability along side the Frog's.

I decided to shave the bevel gears a fraction and use 4mm circlips to hold the

diff output cup to the bearing.

it kinda makes a one piece part out of the white bearing holder,the bearing,drive cup and bevel gear.and it reduces the chance of the diff gears spreading and mangling themselves.

For GregM,i have black sticky vinyl,but im hoping to get a roof to ensclose the cabin bit like a Hornets,i think the Wild One roof matches the Fav's bonnet better than the Wild One's bonnet?kinda two pressed out panels.

i am considering if i should sticky vinyl the front damper brackets or paint them black? i think the brightness of them doesnt fit with the black chassis of a Hornet?

Im also looking for a wing to put on the mount above the gearbox,gotta have somewhere to place the "anytime baby" logo!

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Had you thought of using an aluminium roof panel. Easy to make. Small piece of 1.5mm aluminium sheet (cost me $5 for an offcut piece from a local engineering shop), cut out with the hack saw, then tidied up with a file. Single bend at the front to come down the rollbars slightly as a sun visor. The alloy metal would then match the front towers and the gearbox sides.

There is an aluminium hopup front tower for the Hornet. The way you have it now gives the 'hopped up' look. The only thing that looks out of place to me is the FAV roof (or lack of a roof).

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the alloy roof is a splendid idea,thanks TA-Mark.

and i like the simplicity of the single bend for the visor.(the easier the better as i can make a mess of most things!lol)

im gonna try a carboard version and then transfer to aluminium.

As for the front towers,i procrastinated on these for a while,i just know if i vinyl them,it will work out horrid with crease lines ect,

and if i paint,it will get scratched whilst running and look poop.

The alloy roof would certainly tie it all together without having to mess with the front?

now im even thinking of making using a ball hammer to give it the "bump" of the Hornets roof? tho best stick to simple!

Btw TA-Mark your micro Grasshopper project is insanely clever and unique i wish you the best of luck with it! :)

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also noticed in the pictures,that those FAV rear lights? regardless how you mount them,the light slots both slant one way?it looks like eyes that are looking down and to the side :D

whilst im at it,anybody figure a reason to this.

the Fav driver's outboard arm is glued on,fair enough,Tamiya make plastic models.

but once glued in the seemingly correct position,not only can i not get to one of the screws that hold the cockpit in anymore,but his hand gets in the way of the bonnet fitting?

I dremmeled two semi-circles out on the dashboard to allow for fitment,but only after i snapped the poor guys arm off trying to fit the bonnet.

like i say,the arm kinda "fits" into the shoulder naturally and even the creases for the clothes line up?

strange

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the alloy roof is a splendid idea,thanks TA-Mark.

and i like the simplicity of the single bend for the visor.(the easier the better as i can make a mess of most things!lol)

im gonna try a cardboard version and then transfer to aluminium.

That was how I made mine. A cardboard template (cornflakes box) that fitted neatly under the FAV trim piece. I did measure quite insanely on the cardboard box before I cut it out. Working from a centre line so that both sides were symetrical.

now im even thinking of making using a ball hammer to give it the "bump" of the Hornets roof? tho best stick to simple!

That sounds like a great idea too. Chisel some 'negative bumps' into a piece of timber to use as a backing for when you hammer it into the aluminium. Do a few practice runs on coffee tins first before you commit to your piece of aluminium (you can cut a coffee tin with scissors once you get through the rim). Use many small taps of the hammer as opposed to one big hit. Put some of that vinyl over the aluminium while you're hammering on it to prevent the surface of the aluminium being bruised from the hammer.

also noticed in the pictures,that those FAV rear lights? regardless how you mount them,the light slots both slant one way?it looks like eyes that are looking down and to the side

Are the rollbars square to each side? Is there any flashing on the mounting surfaces? Mine all sit straight.

whilst im at it,anybody figure a reason to this.

the Fav driver's outboard arm is glued on,fair enough,Tamiya make plastic models.

but once glued in the seemingly correct position,not only can i not get to one of the screws that hold the cockpit in anymore,but his hand gets in the way of the bonnet fitting?

I dremmeled two semi-circles out on the dashboard to allow for fitment,but only after i snapped the poor guys arm off trying to fit the bonnet.

like i say,the arm kinda "fits" into the shoulder naturally and even the creases for the clothes line up?

strange

I found this too with my driver that the hood no longer wanted to fit on easily. It seemed to me that the dude's fingers were fouling the little dash panel, so I gently warmed his fingers and rolled them a little more around the steering wheel. His hands no longer touch the dashboard.

The driver figure is polystyrene, so you can fill and sand the gaps on the arms like you would a static model to make the joint seamless.

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