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My Hopped up DB01 Durga

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I recently had a chance to rebuild my DB01 so I took a bunch of pictures to share.

This car was purchased used from eBay. It came with many hop-ups for a great price making it an easy choice over a new R kit. The original hop-ups were:

- TRF Shocks

- 3-Racing blue motor mount

- Tamiya Universal Shafts

- Tamiya Slipper Clutch

- Steel hex screws

I've since added

- Alloy Suspension mounts FF & RR

- Metal Hinge-Pin Balls

- Alloy spacers throughout

- Cap screws for dampers & small motor mount screws

- TRF511 Upgrade Set Diff Joint (rear)

- TRF416 Diff Screws (F&R)

- Alloy Diff Rings (front)

- Ceramic Diff balls

- VariousTamiya alloy screws

- Alloy bell cranks

- Alloy steering bridge (501X)

- Alloy rear upgrights +1*

- Gray Reinforced Adjusters

- Dust seals for adjusters

- TA05 Carbon battery Strap

- Tamiya Carbon Fiber Damper Stays (F&R)

Electornics:

- KO Propo VFS1 Competition ESC

- Team Checkpoint 12x2 motor

- Protek 100SS Super Speed Servo

- Futaba 2PL w/ R153JE receiver

- IP 5000mah 20c Lipo (IP 7200mah 80c waiting to be fitted)

- Cheapo Lipo Alarm

How it looked when I got it (less the front alloy suspension mount):

DB01-1.jpg

DB01-3.jpg

DB01-2.jpg

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Sorry, Photobucket's links were messed up:

How it looks now:

DB01-8_zps5384730c.jpg

DB01-9_zpsaa987b54.jpg

DB01-6_zps805d260a.jpg

DB01Body2_zps472aeb06.jpg

DB01-2-1_zps2fc527e9.jpg

DB01-4-1_zps9054f4f9.jpg

DB01-7_zps19ac2859.jpg

DB01-10_zps728db5d0.jpg

DB01-1-1_zps695c1153.jpg

DB01-5_zps0bb39775.jpg

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As always, incredible photos! Do you have anything fun planned for paint? I have a mental note to go back and look at what you did with your diffs again with the photos. I know the glances I had so far I was mildly confused, I need to get a good look back at that thread again.

Very nice looking though!

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The plan was to continue the same colors on the body

- black

- pink

- blue

- silver/chrome

As for the diff pics, here you go:

This shows the TRF416 diff screw head (slotted)

Diff1_zpsbcef914a.jpg

This shows the hex key locking the screw head to the outdrive. You would then make the adjustment by turning the opposite outdrive to tighten or loosen the diff.

Diff2_zpse7df8074.jpg

This pic shows how the key is inserted at an odd angle once the diff is in the car. Once you feel the key is in the slot, make the adjustment by turning the wheel that spins the other outdrive. Keep in mind that when you turn the wheel to make adjustments, it also going to spin the entire drivetrain. This means your car must be up on a stand so the wheels at the opposite end of the car can spin freely. Make your adjustments 1/4 of a turn at a time and check the setting.

Diff3_zpsc1ef371d.jpg

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Beautiful looking chassis. I have both Baldre and Durga shells, and I just love the looks of the Durga so much more.

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Very nice hop-ups!! I have a couple of the Durgas, love them. Some people think they look too spaceship like. I think they are one of the best looking modern RC's.

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OK, looking at the pictures of the diff closer, I get it now. I think what was throwing me off is that you have the diff covers on the side, I wasn't sure what I was looking at the first time but was just glancing. Please let us know how the diff works out! I think the diff screw would work with my 501 outdrives so being able to adjust like that would be nice...

Thanks again for sharing! Please post again when you get it painted.

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Yeah I'm sure it will work on the 501X outdrives. I have them on both the standard half-plastic diff and the 511 upgrade diff. Fits the same on both. It is tricky to get a feel for the slot in the screw head. I practiced with the diffs out of the car 1st so I would know what I was digging for. You literally cannot see a thing in there once they are in the car. Especially with the red sponge dust seal in there.

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I managed to fit the modern brick style huge lipo in my Durga. Took a couple hours of hogging out the battery tray with a dremel, but was definitely worth it. Now the top of this 7200mah IP sits slightly lower than my old 5000mah I had in there that was slightly shorter.

Battery1_zps3a147e86.jpg

Battery3_zps2969323f.jpg

Battery2_zps88b0f42f.jpg

Here are some pics of this latest pack from IP. Note the larger 5mm female bullets. The cool part about these is they go all the way through the pack so you can flip it over and use opposite polarity. It's a nice touch if you need to be a certain way.

Battery4_zps63a1a0d4.jpg

Battery5_zpsc5f4521b.jpg

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Nice. Always enjoy your photos. You could be a professional RC photographer!

That picture of your Durga as it was was one of the first pics I saved and kept in a folder related to Durga which I made prior to and during my build.

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Thanks. Now wouldn't that be a great job! Feel free to send me your cars to photograph. Don't be surprised if there are slightly more "used" when they return. ;)

Honestly, the trick is to simply tape a huge sheet of paper (cut from a 36" roll) to the wall at the back of your desk top. Then use a large fluorescent lamp directly above the work area. My desk lamp is about 4 feet long.

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I managed to fit the modern brick style huge lipo in my Durga. Took a couple hours of hogging out the battery tray with a dremel, but was definitely worth it. Now the top of this 7200mah IP sits slightly lower than my old 5000mah I had in there that was slightly shorter.

Battery1_zps3a147e86.jpg

Battery3_zps2969323f.jpg

Battery2_zps88b0f42f.jpg

Here are some pics of this latest pack from IP. Note the larger 5mm female bullets. The cool part about these is they go all the way through the pack so you can flip it over and use opposite polarity. It's a nice touch if you need to be a certain way.

Battery4_zps63a1a0d4.jpg

Battery5_zpsc5f4521b.jpg

In fairness you could have just raised your battery strap posts using some spacers - that's what I did and it fits the same size pack but without having to mod the chassis.

Still, good work in getting that in!

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Yes you are correct. I really just wanted the pack as low as possible. But the other issue I had was that I wanted the Durga body to seal against the chassis at the back corners. Because of the larger sharper square corners of this pack, I still had to cut a considerable hole where the body only had a bubble-shape to clear stick packs. These modern brick lipos are pretty darn big.

I meant to take a picture of this spot on the body too, but I forgot. I'll snap one if/when the body ever gets painted. Right now I'm procrastinating... <_<

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Finished up my battery connector finally. Got the wires as neat as possible with the balance tap sticking out. The body is as low as possible with the only contact point being the top of positive battery bullet. It raises the front of the body less than 1mm (compared to no battery). This is quite good as the front is only secured with velcro. I've included a shot that shows how the rear of the body has a hole cut for clearance of the square corner of the battery.

Without LIpo Alarm:

Battery7_zps9d1f0626.jpg

With LIpo Alarm

Battery8_zps61fd4149.jpg

Illustrates Battery install height and rear body modification:

Battery6_zps414e013a.jpg

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I saw this question on the DB01-RR RC-Tech thread from JeepinMike and noticed it was never given a proper answer. I figure I would post it here for all of us:

uote>
I have fixed this in the past by cutting a strip off a piece of clear tape. Then stick that strip of tape into the knuckle where the bearing will go, with the excess length sticking out.
Cyan is the knuckle, Red is the tape stuck to the bearing seat inside the knuckle:
TapeShim_zps7a834a34.png

Now press your bearing in while tugging the tape so it doesn't get bunched up as the bearing slides in. The tape will take up the excess slack giving the bearing a snug press-fit. If it's still not snug enough, remove the bearing and try again with a wider and/or multiple strips of tape. Once the bearing is seated and you are satisfied with the snug fit, trim off the excess tape.

You will then have to repeat this process for each loose bearing. Just be sure to shim them all on the same side of the knuckle or upright to keep the inner races of the bearings aligned. I like to shim them at the top of the kncukle/upright.

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I just don't understand why Tamiya don't tighten the tolerances on these parts, the bearings fitted ultra snug on the Losi 22 I built up..

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I developed this technique for the 950 bearings inside the alloy uprights on the back of my TRF415 as well as the inner race fit on vintage Vanquish swing-shafts. THose were very sloppy. Usually the press-fit is tighter on plastic bits. I'm sure the slop is done to ease assembly for the average hobbyist.

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This is great Sean! I like what you added with the visual description above too. I am in the middle of tightening up and replacing worn parts on all of my cars, this is a great suggestion.

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Glad I could help. At first I tired to type this out without a visual, but I think that drawing saved me about 1000 words. ;)

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WOO HOO! Development continues for the DB-01 over at Tamiya! She's still alive & kickin'!

July 10 Future Tamiya releases for August 2014:
42283 Buggy Double Cardan Drive Shaft (Front, 2 Pcs.)

42284 Buggy Double Cardan Drive Shaft (Rear, 2 Pcs.)

84391 DB01 Integrated Aluminum Pulley 18T

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Glad I could help. At first I tired to type this out without a visual, but I think that drawing saved me about 1000 words. ;)

Thanks this helpful. Will try it too.

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The db01 is tamiyas best budget chassis, or race winner in the right hands after much more money. I was so keen on an nib RRR kit that i had a trade up, my barely used fully setup 501x with lrp fusion 10turn double and a new gm v8 esc, no limit baby, and parts car i just got two new gm esc's today, the v8 and a v12, i am getting a sx6R in the mail too, figured i'd get a couple of brushed esc's from my nostalgic time of rc many years ago. Now is track season beginning, and i switched to almost only brushed motors the last half year. As most know good old brushed escs are forward/brake mostly. Now I need oldish brushed escs with reverse and 10ish motor limit. the sx6R i have on the way is 12turn limit When I got a little safer economy I have bought all my biggest regrets selling, the df03, the db01, both upgraded, but i bought upgrades that really do nothing back then, but now, function first. my db01 have been hopped up with, flat lipo chassis, gear diffs, have another set on the way for quick tuning swaps of oils in the two diffs. i also have trf big bores, double slipper clutch, all suspension mounts in alloy, alloy caster blocks, alloy steering arms and bridge, carbon front tower, have a new rear carbon tower on the way, then i can finally use my alloy wing mounts, the car is complete with new shiny stainless heavy duty steel screws instead of every phillips head. changed all screws from first build step. novak no limit gtx esc(got it for 25dollars with shipping with non tracable letter), team orion revolution 12turn that really need lathing and brush change, but i have not opened a motor with such type endbell, my last two oscar jensen 7 and 9turn revolution beautyies will stay nib. As will my peak racing vantage spashett ed. 12turn single, never run in a car tested on bench so has a little solder i wish wasnt there on the soldering ears.

And the most functional part on my entire db01......................................................., the blue alloy motor mount, i cant stand the sandblasted finnish on the stock mount.............lol. i also have a genious 12mm hex conversion for when i run out of pin and 10mm hex wheels................ Go db01!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Its not the poor mans 501x, its the rich mans better than 501x car that takes more of a beating and drives better, I have both. db01 hands down...........   Rich mans car bc of the tons of options to make it in the rrr league. gear diffs and that alone makes the car brand new and better, and the stock diffs are pure trash, i made a point of binning them without building them.

thomas and pippi=)

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