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Posted

I think it might be good to go over the general rules of racing in the morning if people are not used to normal club racing. Just the std stuff.

  • You must marshal the race after your race, no messing with your car until you have returned after marshalling
  • Always let a car who is lapping you pass when you are able to
  • When racing, if you are behind a rival and knock them off, you should let them pass once they have recovered / been put back on the track.

I't been a while since I raced a 2wd buggy! Hopefully the jumps are quite tame cause I dont think the DT02 is going to really like big air!

Posted

I think it might be good to go over the general rules of racing in the morning if people are not used to normal club racing. Just the std stuff.

  • You must marshal the race after your race, no messing with your car until you have returned after marshalling
  • Always let a car who is lapping you pass when you are able to
  • When racing, if you are behind a rival and knock them off, you should let them pass once they have recovered / been put back on the track.

I't been a while since I raced a 2wd buggy! Hopefully the jumps are quite tame cause I dont think the DT02 is going to really like big air!

During the morning Drivers Briefing things such as these will be addressed.

Having some people who have not raced before means there will be a full explanation of all racing etiquette.

let us please not go in to it on here. Thank you. B)

Posted

Top stuff, still need to book in, trying to see how I can play with the car to make it handle well. I assume Mod is anything goes in relationship to tuning the car (Other than electrics)

Posted

Top stuff, still need to book in, trying to see how I can play with the car to make it handle well. I assume Mod is anything goes in relationship to tuning the car (Other than electrics)

The Rules for the mod/open class are as follows:- But please look at all the rules on page 1. Posted again on page 7.

DT02 Chassis Open Class - Modified – rules as above with additions below where applicable.

This class is:-

  1. Open to using any of the past or current Tamiya DT-02 based standard kit models.

2. Open to using any body-shell from any past or current Tamiya DT-02 based standard kit model ONLY.

3. Car must use the Tamiya DT02 chassis and gearbox (DT02 geared diff or DT02 ball diff are permitted).

4. Any tyre and any wheel from any manufacturer (1/10th scale car ‘sizes’ only, in keeping with original car).

5. Only commercially available hop ups permitted, ie Tamiya,3racing,GPM,Yeah-Racing.Carson,etc

6. Any commercially available BRUSHED ‘540 size’ motor with 19 turns or more (any 19 turn spec. and any manufacturer

allowed)

7. Any commercially available BRUSH-LESS ‘540 size’ motor with 10.5 turns or more (any manufacturer allowed).

8. Any commercially available electronic speed controller (from any manufacturer) to suit any motor as above.

Posted

Yep cool, that fine mate, just as long as I use off the shelf parts I can tune the car, that's what I was checking. atm I'm looking at about 2 deg front and 3 deg rear camber, and 30wt oil. What tyres are the std on the track? Mini-pins or mini spikes?

Cheers

Posted

Yep cool, that fine mate, just as long as I use off the shelf parts I can tune the car, that's what I was checking. atm I'm looking at about 2 deg front and 3 deg rear camber, and 30wt oil. What tyres are the std on the track? Mini-pins or mini spikes?

Cheers

Basic set up shock/oil wise for a rear motored 2wd car is 40 weight oil front - 3 hole piston and rear 30 weight oil - 3 hole piston.

Tires for astro is Front Schumacher yellow slim cut staggards

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/schumacher-cut-stagger-yellow-slim-pr-/rc-car-products/40293

and Rear is Schumacher yellow mini spikes

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/schumacher-mini-spike-rears-yellow-2.2/rc-car-products/2300

with Schumacher tubby inserts.

Posted

I'll be bringing along the Tamiya Hop-Up DT-02 Front Carbon Damper Stay to flog. It fits the buggies, not the HB and SR.

I opened it today and got an acute attack of the cantbebotherds so it's opened but unused.

I've been soldering up the motor/esc for the mod class this evening. Oh what fun that is. I am convinced soldering was easier back in the day! :)

  • Like 1
Posted

got a mr jig to do all connectors and a nice high 100 watt soldering iron as tend to do all the soldering for mates as well .. still got to put motor in my sand viper just doing another mad driver for a m8 to use in his red hb and picked up driver for another mates sand rover going to be some strange heads rolling round track :)

Posted

Cool, I will order the staggers (Already have spikes) I fitted a brushless in the car.. it's mental with the 17t pinion.

Please note chap that the maximum brushless permitted is 10.5 B)

Posted

Question.

In between races, when we need to relax, tinker with cars etc. Is there somewhere under cover? Are there chairs, tables?

Basically - What do we need to bring?

Posted

Question.

In between races, when we need to relax, tinker with cars etc. Is there somewhere under cover? Are there chairs, tables?

Basically - What do we need to bring?

There are no tables or chairs or any cover.

My advice is to bring :-

  1. Table (pasting tables are ideal - cheap)
  2. Deck chair / fishing chair
  3. Gazebo

To some degree the pitting area is sheltered a little by the building but you need to bring minimum of a table and chair.

Talk to people you know are coming to the event, see who wants to pit with who and club together.

Posted

Mod Class...

I had bought a 10.5t Brushless system from HobbyKing but the ESC just kept flashing at me. I 'think' I may have either damaged the ESC when soldering or my soldering just wasn't up to scratch. No instructions in the box and nothing on the internet. Wasted about 3 hours of my life on it before deciding to call it a day. Pretty unamused until I remedied the disappointment with a hammer and smashed it.

I'm now running a 20t brushed motor. Sorted.

  • Like 2

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