Percymon 2184 Posted August 6, 2013 Whilst waiting for the RC10 Classic release I thought I'd better have a dabble with an older RC10 to get a feel for these things. The UK isn't exactly overwhelmed with used examples, and its never economical to buy from the USA (shipping costs plus import duty, handling fees and taxes ). Despite these barriers, it didn't take too long to find a UK ''RC10 Team Car ''- the seller wouldn't end the auction early so I had to sit it out, and with a final second bid, it was mine So this is the start point.. nothing spectacular but not too bad a basis for a reasonable runner. It arrived with a forward only period Gold Star ESC, Acoms RX and servo - all pretty typical fare at the time. It also came with the correct Reedy motor, a handful of spares, a MIP steering assembly and some (not so) great 'spiked' tyres... Those with a keen eye for these thing will notice the incorrect shocks (should be hard anodized grey green with black caps) and even keener eyes will spot the milled chassis tub and 'lightened' front section As usual, it didn't take me long to decide that I wouldn't be happy just cleaning and rebuilding it as a capable performing, but perhaps somewhat tired looking, runner. So despite the issues with the chassis originality/authenticity I carried on regardless - heck if you throw a load of money at something it can always be fixed :( A new Viper body and wing set were acquired from Tower Hobbies, and sent to Jon Millar for painting in the correct Team Car scheme that was used in their marketing campaigns of the time (the box art wasn't actually changed by Associated so carries the earlier RC10 scheme on the packaging !)... The first body i've farmed out to someone else to paint and well, I think it was worth it... Whilst the body was away with Jon i set about finding the correct shock absorbers, which resulted in me sourcing NIP sets for front and rear, thankfully at nothing like the original header card prices At this stage the car was still in one piece, awaiting full inspection and strip down.Uh oh, this rebuild was starting to look like another percymon ''rebuild it and never run it'' project , which was not what i wanted really Scouring eBay one night resulted, by chance, in another RC10 Team Car chassis being acquired. I hadn't had a drink, honest :D So the plan is now to build one chassis as a runner, the other as a shelfer. The shelfer will get the most original chassis tub, the best parts from the two chassis, with an aim to keep things reasonably original in the rebuild process. However as I won't be surfing the net for years looking for hard to find parts at silly prices, a few compromises will be inevitable.What about the runner ? The plan is to build it up with some non standard parts, and more importantly USE it Chassis #1 is now stripped down and it's clear the chassis tub was an original that was milled by a previous owner - quite well done, but rather extensive ! Chassis #2 is completely disassembled and all the white nylon parts are soaking in bleach outside in a location subject to full sunlight. The main T6061 aluminium chassis tub has a fair few scratches and a couple of dents that I'll need to rectify, but appears to be an original one with a B stamp which puts it in the middle of the Team car production period. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daves956 157 Posted August 7, 2013 interesting black chassis plate, I think it's the same one in the RC10DS and RC10T. You could probably build either of those too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
markbt73 5316 Posted August 7, 2013 Good start! The Team car is the real gem of the RC10 range as far as a runner goes, and I've always had a soft spot for the black-tub-white-plastic combo. Those "modified" tires take me back; I did the same thing with Grasshopper tires one winter for running in snow. They didn't help traction any, but they did a fine job of shredding my friend's glove when he reached for the car at the wrong moment... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted August 7, 2013 interesting black chassis plate, I think it's the same one in the RC10DS and RC10T. You could probably build either of those too. I did think about a truck option, but that would increase the length of the parts shopping list ! Plus I've already got an order in with fibre-lyte for some buggy shock towers for the runner - i do need another rear bulkhead with an intact battery cup, and a pair of tubes for the rear wing to mount into. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RichieRich 685 Posted August 7, 2013 The paint on that Viper body is awesome. I have 7 or 8 RC10s in my showroom and I have the rerelease on order. I think the RC10 is one of the most fun cars to rebuild as there are so many directions you can take. Stock, Shelfer, Modified with period parts...which there are thousands, backyard basher, etc. Great work!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted August 7, 2013 Thanks guys Update 7.8.13 a bit of activity today thanks to a slightly early get away from work Chassis #2 yielded the best nose plate, tub and motor plate. There were some of scuffs and scrapes from running, but not too bad for a car that had clearly been used. The nose plate was a bit worse for wear but some patient tapping with the hammer straightened a few dinks out and the majority of others largely disappeared with the emery paper. Rear motor plate had a couple of marks so these were attended to.. Chassis tub now looks rather sorry, but 90%+ of the scuff marks are gone.. Fear not, tomorrow morning those parts will arrive at the company I've employed to strip them, prepare them and re anodize them black. Those parts will form the basis of the shelfer. A used bulkhead arrived from the US today, clearly in much better condition than the two I had with broken battery cups (new arrival on the right).. Quite clearly its been cleaned and peroxide dipped prior to sale, but that saved me a job And final activity for today was building up the shocks. I've had the old white nylon shock parts from chassis #1 soaking in peroxide for a week which has improved the whiteness no end. The rebuilt shocks are original white nylon parts coupled to new shock bodies, pistons and seals. The top caps are still to be changed to black anodized ones when i can find some tidy examples. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IBIFTKH 1369 Posted August 8, 2013 I always enjoy your resto threads, real painstaking work but great results. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted August 8, 2013 I always enjoy your resto threads, real painstaking work but great results. Thanks Rob - I've had a few lengthy builds with the Optima Mids of late, so the simplicity of the RC10s is a welcome change - they are the sort of thing you can work on in short slots, in a more relaxed manner, rather than having to sit for hours tearing your hair out Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IBIFTKH 1369 Posted August 8, 2013 I solved that problem, I shave my head! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted August 8, 2013 nothing much to report today - cleaned up the shelfer wheels with 800, 1000, 1500 grit wet n dry and refitted the Team Associated 2.2" TQ72 front tyres... Rear wheels are 2.0", I'm waiting on some Schumacher CAT blocks.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted August 9, 2013 Todays arrivals.. Schumacher block rear tyres for the shelfer Cut stagger front and multi-bow rears for the runner, those will be fitted to JC Racing 5 spoke 2.2 rims on the runner.. and that Faspearl orange is for the runner shell ! And also on the door mat was a few CF parts from Fibre-lyte for the runner... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted August 23, 2013 The shelfer chassis has retuned from the anodisers. The runner chassis has been cleaned up, some of the scratches removed and repainted in matt black. All the white nylon parts have now completed the peroxide treatment so today hopefully I can make some build progress Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MetBoy 22 Posted August 23, 2013 This is a great thread, thoroughly enjoying your thoroughness! Can I ask how much of the palava the anodising process was? Both financially and work wise. I have a rather sad gold pan that looks pretty similar to yours! Cristian.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted August 23, 2013 Time for an update and quite a bit of progress.. The 'shelfer' chassis is back from the anodizers - very respectable job for the £30 outlay, and whilst not 100% perfect, its a humungous improvement over the scratched and score state it started as.... Onto the runner, fibrelyte parts proved no more expensive than finding nice condition originals and for a runner are possibly better and certainly give a nice visual 'hop-up' I repainted the runner chassis myself, again removing some of the previous score marks - I'm happy with this as if it was any better I'd be umming and arring about whether to use or not. And after a few hours input today it's comin together nicely. When the re-re parts become avaialble next month i will swap the rear bulkhead out, but for now its good enough I've slightly uprated the slipper to the B3 one - it's 100% compatible with the original drive gear shaft but offers a slightly bigger slipper area and is easy to source parts for. stealth gearbox overhauled with new bearings, new ball diff internals and ceramic balls, new thrust washers and ceramic balls, new idler gear and new drive gear shaft.. Front end awaiting the reinstall of the MIP steering bellcranks.. and a final underside photo.. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted August 24, 2013 This is a great thread, thoroughly enjoying your thoroughness! Can I ask how much of the palava the anodising process was? Both financially and work wise. I have a rather sad gold pan that looks pretty similar to yours! Cristian.. Hi Christian - the biggest issue with re-anodizing is finding someone who is prepared to take on small jobs without charging ludicrous prices. I tried two UK places initially, one ddn't respond to my enquiries (they did work for F1 teams so perhaps not short of business ?), and the other, reasonably well known, wanted £80+postage to reanodize a set of Kyosho gold shocks. A member on Oople.com pointed me to Adam Barton at absmetal finishers, who tried to do the shocks for me at £15+postage. Sadly the 7000 series alloy used on those shocks didn't like the anodizing acids and they failed , although I know he has been successful with them on other occassions. I chanced it again with the RC10 chassis, as its 6061 alloy and they are better suited to anodizing - i did a bit of prep on the chassis, and perhaps should have done a little more in hindsight but its 95% perfect and the 5% is solely down to my haste and quick preparation. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MetBoy 22 Posted August 25, 2013 Hi Christian - the biggest issue with re-anodizing is finding someone who is prepared to take on small jobs without charging ludicrous prices. I tried two UK places initially, one ddn't respond to my enquiries (they did work for F1 teams so perhaps not short of business ?), and the other, reasonably well known, wanted £80+postage to reanodize a set of Kyosho gold shocks. A member on Oople.com pointed me to Adam Barton at absmetal finishers, who tried to do the shocks for me at £15+postage. Sadly the 7000 series alloy used on those shocks didn't like the anodizing acids and they failed , although I know he has been successful with them on other occassions. I chanced it again with the RC10 chassis, as its 6061 alloy and they are better suited to anodizing - i did a bit of prep on the chassis, and perhaps should have done a little more in hindsight but its 95% perfect and the 5% is solely down to my haste and quick preparation. Hey, thanks for the reply. I looked into DIY anodising a while back, but was put off by the amount of prep that was required, as well as the nasty chemicals! Also, everybody seemed to say that the job had to be perfect to start, which given the state of my chassis did seem impossible. I had no idea there was different types alloy involved. Like you I could only find places who were not interested in doing just one part. Given how much prep was going to be required I almost went down the expensive New Old Stock route. Then I found this stuff, thought it might look different! http://www.plastidip.net.au/category/plasti-dip I am waiting for a tin to arrive so I can git it a try! It wont be anodised, but it might be interesting. I am a bit worried about how it will last, but given the car will only be a light runner I have nothing to loose. C.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted August 25, 2013 Plasti-dip is good stuff but its not the easiest stuff to get a flat looking finish , but their fluorescent colours are very similar to the limited green, orange and pinks that AE offered in later RC10 alloy chassis ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MetBoy 22 Posted August 25, 2013 Plasti-dip is good stuff but its not the easiest stuff to get a flat looking finish , but their fluorescent colours are very similar to the limited green, orange and pinks that AE offered in later RC10 alloy chassis ! Mine will be blue! Hoping I can find a similar body color. Will see how it pans out. Pun intended! C.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted August 25, 2013 Last installation before i nip off on holiday.. Yesterday I finised installing the universals and rear uprights, dropped the Reedy 3300kVmotor in, and trimmed up the body. I ended up moving the rear shocks out to the widest of the top mounting points as I wanted to retain the 'shoulders' on the cockpit of the shell. Earlier cars that used this Pro-tech type shell used the outer mounts, the Team Cars used the inner points with the lower profile Viper shell. MIP steering bellcranks re-installed. New wheels (JC Racing) and tyres (Schumacher) added alond with a RC-Lohas front bumper which nicely hides the section of the original nose plate cut away by a previous owner Waiting on a couple of flanged bearings for the front wheels, some lock nuts, and turnbuckles and connectors, all of which should be on the door mat when I return from hols Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted September 10, 2013 Been a bit lax updating this thread, although not much has changed due to holidays etc. Final few parts have arrived this week from Tower Hobbies. Electrics are all installed though not calibrated yet. Titanium turnbuckles , Tamiya ball studs and rod ends now installed for steering and camber links. Final bearings and wheel nuts now present and correct. I've opted for the high down force wing set on the runner so cutting and trial fitting that (it fits through the bodyshell ) is the next job ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gruntfuggly 562 Posted September 10, 2013 The car's looking great - would be nice to get hold of some original wheels though - the original RC10 wheels are awesome... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted September 14, 2013 The car's looking great - would be nice to get hold of some original wheels though - the original RC10 wheels are awesome... I have one set of the originals for the Team Car - they wll go on the shelfer. If rere wheels are as originals then i may get a set for the runner too, but I quite like the 2.2 sizing and it makes tyre choice a lot easier. Tower Hobbies now have some rere parts in stock - ordered some lipo compatible rear bulkheads, wing tubes and the bell crank steering upgrades this morning. Cut some wing tubes from some ally tubing this morning, finished cutting the rear wing - just final touches and calibration left on the runner now :D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted September 20, 2013 I managed to snap some pics before work this morning - nothing spectacular but in the interests of keeping the thread up to date.. http://s1194.photobucket.com/user/percymon/media/Associated%20RC10%20Team%20Cars/IMG_0516_zpscf62cb6d.jpg.html'>http://s1194.photobucket.com/user/percymon/media/Associated%20RC10%20Team%20Cars/IMG_0515_zps16f4ce26.jpg.html'>http://s1194.photobucket.com/user/percymon/media/Associated%20RC10%20Team%20Cars/IMG_0514_zpsbb1f81d4.jpg.html'>http://s1194.photobucket.com/user/percymon/media/Associated%20RC10%20Team%20Cars/IMG_0513_zpsfe987f87.jpg.html'>----- Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
biggamehunter 127 Posted September 28, 2013 looking good mate , any pics on the progress of the original one you got ?/ the shelfer with the body that jon painted on ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted September 28, 2013 Hi Shaun, welcome back. The other one is still in bits, hope to start reassembly this week. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
