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Johnny_00

egress rerelease in nov 2013

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After searching all over the place and 101 pages of this thread, I can't believe I actually exactly found what I was looking for on page 6.

I believe shorter steering plate will help to make clear movements to the steering links during suspension compression.
If you have an Egress you can see it. If you compress the front suspension you can feel it not really free. It's the inner ball connector on the steering plate that hits against it.
A shorter steering plate helps to avoid this problem and also helps on the bump steer.

img24_18112005044037_1.jpg

img24_18112005044037_5.jpg

As you can see I cut a Vanquish steering plate to obtain a better solution to avoid the problem but I believe aluminum Avante Steering plate remains the best option due the ball ends position.

The question I was speaking about is the modification of the steering plate to have some Ackerman angle.
If you built a new plate by yourself you can change the position of the inner holes. In this way you can obtain, with a different plate movement, a sort of Ackerman angle.
I made a rough design to explain well what I'm speaking about.

The best choice is to totally re-design the steering plate with the correct shape and the correct hole position.
In my opinion the best choice is an Avante steering plate (due the best length and ball connectors position) with different mounting point of the steering cranks.

Max

I am excited about the Egress rere, if not as a runner, then certainly as a shelf queen partner to my restored Egress.

As for the driveability issues with the Avante...

Folks, this is where you have to just man up and put the track time in ;), because complaining about the chassis won't make it perform better.

I have four Avante series chassis (2011, 2001, Egress, 2011 Black Special). My 2011 is a runner. In the beginning, I had significant problems with bump steer, as has been discussed on this thread. On a smooth track, this is really not an issue, obviously, but on bumpy tracks, it's difficult to deal with. The hi cap dampers helped a bit to soften the chassis' response to bumps. I tried messing around with the adjustable front and rear trailing arms to increase the track width, but this is a pointless effort, because any setting wider than stock increases the risk of the diff outdrives popping out, and/or increases the risk of the dogbones popping out of the diff outdrives. Your best bet for running wider is to use the Traxxas offset hex wheel hubs, which add ~ 5mm per side of track width. This will give the wheels more leverage on the shocks, so that they are effectively softer over bumps. Even without that, though, this chassis can still be manageable to drive if you put the time in.

The biggest problem I had was not so much the bump steer, but instead the slow response of the steering. If the car is behaving wildly, you should have the reaction time to correct for it, but on this chassis the steering response felt quite laggy. I was initially using a Hitec HS 605 servo, with which I had problems with both steering speed and bump steer. I then switched to a torquier servo, which I figured would brute force the wheels in a straight line better, to address at least some of the bump steer. It seemed to help, but the steering was still quite laggy, despite my using this servo in other chassis with no steering speed problems. I recently switched to a much faster HS 7966 servo for the Avante. I've yet to run it with the new servo, but I suspect I will be able to get it to react quicker. Ideally, you would want to spend big bucks on a high speed, high torque servo, like the HS 7940TH. As this is not my weekly racer, though, I'm just not going there with this chassis.

I do like the idea that has been mentioned here of shortening the steering plate. All that really does is reduce the steering tie rod angle between the inner and outer ball studs at full compression. It is the severity of this angle that determines bump steer. More angle at full compression = more bump steer, and less mid-corner steering. I had given some thought to taking the ball stud on the steering plate and simply mounting it facing upwards rather than downwards, and then maybe putting a slightly taller ballstud on the steering hub. This will reduce the tie rod angle at full compression (less bump steer), although at zero compression the angle will be larger, leading to more ackerman (inside wheel turns at a sharper angle). Some have argued that ackerman improves turn-in, but that really depends on the optimal scrub angle of the tire, which depends on the tire compound. On initial turn-in, the inside and outside tires contribute equally to cornering grip, but the maximum grip a tire generates under cornering is dictated by the scrub angle, which is what generates the friction required to create grip. Since the inside wheel is turning at a sharper angle with more ackerman, it will only contribute to more turn-in if the tire compound requires a larger scrub angle to generate more grip. Regardless, since the Avante comes with a center diff (or a one-way if you have the torque splitter), you really don't have to worry about turn-in differences due to ackerman, since the center diff or one-way will have a much greater impact due to simply rotating the chassis on turn-in.

Many of the issues with this chassis can be tuned out to some extent, if you are patient with it and are willing to even fab some of your own parts. I think the Egress rere will be a better runner than the Avante 2011 rere. The longer wheelbase should make it more stable, and the more stand-up front shock angle should make the front bounce less. The only thing is breaking those front arms. One thing I'll give the Avante credit for is mounting front trailing arms on rocker arms with a damper - the front will take some pretty heavy hits before breaking anything.

Cplus, not to ignore your question Mate....... please do some homework on the big bore or TRF buggy shocks. They have a longer barrel / bore than the Hi-Caps so they bottom out much sooner. They are designed for modern buggies which have a much higher shock tower to compensate for the longer bore. Notice that the Hi-Caps taper at the bottom of the barrel and the lower spring retainer is also tapered to match. This is what allows the Hi-Cap some extra compression and you do need it with the Egress. I still think the Hi-Caps are the best shock for the Egress to be honest !

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After searching all over the place and 101 pages of this thread, I can't believe I actually exactly found what I was looking for on page 6.

Cplus, not to ignore your question Mate....... please do some homework on the big bore or TRF buggy shocks. They have a longer barrel / bore than the Hi-Caps so they bottom out much sooner. They are designed for modern buggies which have a much higher shock tower to compensate for the longer bore. Notice that the Hi-Caps taper at the bottom of the barrel and the lower spring retainer is also tapered to match. This is what allows the Hi-Cap some extra compression and you do need it with the Egress. I still think the Hi-Caps are the best shock for the Egress to be honest !

Thommo, you could also checkout my Egress Black Special build thread. We had a good conversation there for how to make a better streering bridge.

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=72541&hl=%20egress%20%20black%20%20special&page=5

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Thommo, you could also checkout my Egress Black Special build thread. We had a good conversation there for how to make a better streering bridge.

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=72541&hl=%20egress%20%20black%20%20special&page=5

Ha Ha, bjorklo I certainly have Mate. Thank you and I think it was page 5 and 6 on your thread that was also very helpful. In fact I can now see page=5 in your link ;)

I've ordered the metal Avante steering bridge. I just have to wait for it to get here so I can see if I have to flip it upside down or not ? Does the Avante have the tapered seat for the flat head screws on the underside or the top ? I already have DF03 wheels with JC bar code tyres, custom alloy steering knuckles, Avante Hop-Up front shock tower, Egress 2013 rear shock tower and Hi-Caps with original springs and Hop-Up soft spring set. The original frp shock towers and BF8 / BF9 parts are going back in the box so they don't get lost or broken.

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Cplus, not to ignore your question Mate....... please do some homework on the big bore or TRF buggy shocks. They have a longer barrel / bore than the Hi-Caps so they bottom out much sooner. They are designed for modern buggies which have a much higher shock tower to compensate for the longer bore. Notice that the Hi-Caps taper at the bottom of the barrel and the lower spring retainer is also tapered to match. This is what allows the Hi-Cap some extra compression and you do need it with the Egress. I still think the Hi-Caps are the best shock for the Egress to be honest !

Thanks for the response! I had tried to review various few manuals, but could work out dimension comparisons. Different scales in different manuals.

So, my research was to ask here :D

But now this images has got me wondering....

Egresss2.jpg

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I remember those cars ! Stu is running that very low, maybe for astro. I betcha it's got very little suspension travel on the front but the rear would be fine. Shoot him a PM

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Can someone measure the battery space on their re-re for me please? The height is the most critical I think as it's impossible to change. I need to know how much room I have for lipo's. Thanks.

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I think so, been reading peoples experiences of the SRB series, Shot Series and Egress.

I have drawn the conclusion that the SRB's although historic don't make wonderful runners (apart from on sand) and I don't want to keep trying to hop it up to make it more drivable. The Shot, well I like these and a Supershot was a massive want BITD, but I think in essence my TT02B is very close to a shot series car and it's a great basher, but I already have that and would probably run it in preference to a Super Hotshot as be more concerned over the fragility of the Super Hotshot.

An Avante and Egress were massive wants BITD also but I can't help but see the Avante as a bit of a premaddona and limited with the Egress correcting most of those problems, I was hoping to take it club racing too, rather than just bashing.

Also my budget has been free'd up somewhat with the quick sale (for a great price) of an old set of MTB forks, so where the Egress might have been a stretch a kit, Servo, Receiver, brushless setup and lipo are well in reach now.

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If you're planning to use it for club racing and you're budget-conscious, you need to factor in that the parts for an Egress can be rather pricey and not readily available. As technologically advanced as the Egress was back in the day, you can buy a cheaper yet more competitive modern-day chassis (not necessarily from Tamiya) for racing and not worry about parts availability if something breaks. And the best part is you get to keep the Egress new-in-box or build it for display. ;)

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I have a cougar sv2 for serious racing but I was hoping to give the egress a run out on the astro for fun more than anything else. I do want to use brushless and lipo though.

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I see stella has it back in stock sooo tempting I dont need it but want it lol, I must of spent hours when about 10 looking at the guide book that had the egrees kit parts laid out on white back ground.

Still not finished other kits either lol!

Has this been worth getting for those of you that never had a chance to get one first time around?

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I ordered mine from Tamico, £260ish delivered, no import duties to pay and is on the van for delivery today. Also got some Dark Impart 2.2 wheels so I can get some Schmacher Mini Spikes for use at the local club on Astro.

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I ordered mine from Tamico, £260ish delivered, no import duties to pay and is on the van for delivery today. Also got some Dark Impart 2.2 wheels so I can get some Schmacher Mini Spikes for use at the local club on Astro.

Thanks yea I see they still have in stock to! never had a customs charge from stella either yet! lol

So tempting but I dont really need it or have time to build yet lol

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Hi guys :)

For those of you who are running their Egress what lipo battery's are you using? I need to get some new ones & want to get some that will fit when I get round to finishing mine.

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Hi guys :)

For those of you who are running their Egress what lipo battery's are you using? I need to get some new ones & want to get some that will fit when I get round to finishing mine.

Depends if you don't mind a mod or two, you can file the 3 aluminium deck spacer posts to a flat on one side (have a look at my recent Egress build thread) and that gives space to fit in one of these: http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__21001__Turnigy_5000mAh_2S1P_20C_Hardcase_Pack_ROAR_APPROVED_.html

The sponge tape on the alu bulkhead needs to be removed as well and the wires are a tight fit but it fits and my car performs very well with it onboard.

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im still having a lot of fun racing my egress, home made damper mount just broke, so i will make newer one with a bit more "meat", also my wing mount iron wire broke

further the egress really is very durable

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im still having a lot of fun racing my egress, home made damper mount just broke, so i will make newer one with a bit more "meat", also my wing mount iron wire broke

further the egress really is very durable

What surface do you race yours on? Ive had problems with mine wanting to flip over all the time, only way I could sort this was backing off the steering and only allowing about 75% of maximum turn in either way. It seems strange as its not a narrow car or overly top heavy, it does seem over spring as standard though.

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Hi guys :)

For those of you who are running their Egress what lipo battery's are you using? I need to get some new ones & want to get some that will fit when I get round to finishing mine.

I use Nivision stick packs, 45C. Note, at first they look like they will fit as they are rounded like the old Tamiya Stick packs, but they are 3mm too long. So to fit them I opened up the whole on the top and bottom plates for the forward support post. I elongated the whole to enable the post to be moved forward 3mm to accommodate the batteries. I have since learned there are stick pack lipos out there that are 'standard' stick pack dimensions. if you can get these then you won't have to mod anything.

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OK I apologise for asking this here but I thought it easier than a new thread.

Anyway since I don't think the Vanquish will get a ReRe I am wondering if I could fit a Vanquish body to the Egress and if so what modifications/parts would be needed or would it basically go straight on?

Cheers

Dave

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OK I apologise for asking this here but I thought it easier than a new thread.

Anyway since I don't think the Vanquish will get a ReRe I am wondering if I could fit a Vanquish body to the Egress and if so what modifications/parts would be needed or would it basically go straight on?

Cheers

Dave

TE this is for you !!

Tamiya Era would know , KalEl63 . You could Message him ?. As i don't see him on here much .

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Yes you can fit a Vanquish body to the Egress chassis. You will want to use a hi-cap damper front shock tower though as I have below. It's shaped to the vanquish body. A repro old-school egress shock tower work also but it will be much taller and looks odd IMO.

You will also be missing the front alloy body mount that only came in the original Hop-up Carbon chassis kit. All this means is the front of the body will rattle around in the shock tower. The body doesn't come off unless you un-bolt one half of the shock tower anyways.

01.jpg

D20_0092.jpg

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If you use Avante 2001 front shock tower you cal leave the Vanquish body free to come off easy.

Max

Yes you can fit a Vanquish body to the Egress chassis. You will want to use a hi-cap damper front shock tower though as I have below. It's shaped to the vanquish body. A repro old-school egress shock tower work also but it will be much taller and looks odd IMO.

01.jpg

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It's actually too narrow to fit the body well. And without the alloy body mount I mentioned, there would be nothing to hold the body on. The hi-cap tower is by far my favorite.

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