DB01 or DB02 for Noob?

[whale22]

Hi looking for a decent handling 4WD Tamiya that I can bash and take to open hours at my LHS track. I've only ever had a Hornet and Dirt Thrasher and like the 4WD handling and cornering.

I also like adding hop-ups and tweaking the car.

I'd probably stick with a low-turn brushed motor and my NiMH batteries for the time being but wouldn't mind going brushless at some point...

Thanks in advance.

[30YrsL8r]

There's a recent discussion of these two in the following thread (mostly DB01, admittedly):

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=70908&hl=

[super gripper]

Do not waste your money on a DB02. It is over priced and under spec'd, by the time you have spent all your money putting things right with the car it is cheaper to by a TRF502x

[94eg!]

Either find a older DB01-R kit or wait for the DB01-RR to come out. I wouldn't waste money on anything else. Of course you can also find used DB01's that have already been hopped up. That's what I did.

RR:

[speedy_w_beans]

I would argue for a switch to 1/8 scale instead of spending big money on 1/10 scale if you live in the USA. 1/8 scale is so much more beefy and drives beautifully with the heavier weight and center diff. A lot of the outdoor tracks where I live have huge jumps and will destroy a 1/10 scale vehicle. Instead of piecemealing a 1/10 scale race setup together, save money for awhile and jump to the end conclusion in one shot.

$469 for a DB01RR kit vs. $479 for a RC8.2e factory team kit, for example...

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDWBM&P=7

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBVER&P=ML

$229 for a Durga + another $100 for suspension, damper, and slipper upgrades vs. $299 for a Hot Bodies Ve8 kit as another example:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTDL4&P=7

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXYDP3&P=7

Or, $229 for a Durga + another $100 for suspension, damper, and slipper upgrades vs. $199 for a Ofna LX2e:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAXV2&P=7

Spend $175-200 on LiPo, ESC, brushless motor, and servo for a 1/10 scale setup, or $250 for LiPos, ESC, brushless motor, and servo for a 1/8 scale setup...

The economics of running 1/10 scale 4WD at a track don't add up for me. The only reason to run 1/10 scale 4WD is if you have several friends at a club who are also doing it, and the track conditions don't destroy the vehicle.

[94eg!]

Curse you and your logic!!! lol

[Yello]

Couldn't agree more with speedy. Unless you race 1/10 buggy specifically, then why not get into 1/8 scale? You'll be happier in the long run.

1/10 buggies are very much on the small/toy side. You'll want something more impressive eventually -- bigger electronics, 4s-6s capable chassis and powertrain. You won't want to be limited the way 1/10 buggies will limit you - plastic gears and fragile powertrains, 2s battieries- 3s if you're real lucky- And those short 540 size motors.

Most RCs these days, most 1/10 Traxxas models and all those 1/10 Short Course trucks, are already sized for bigger motors and more battery power with metal gears. Yet, it seems, they're all really just trying to be 1/8 in scale, power and durability.

I think RC has evolved to the point where certain platforms that allow for bigger motors and bigger batteries are becoming standardized and to the point where poorly designed platforms are very much now oddities or curiosities considering how unneccesary they seem to be.

Take the example of the DB02 and DB01. On paper, the DB02 is already a step up from the DB01 considering its shaft drive. But then it has extremely problematic plastic ball differentials and then it has a grotesque layout where its batteries have to be inserted in sideways and then underneath the drive shaft, which limits the size of the battery. Yet if that's bad, that's not as bad as the DB01 that needs modifiecation in order for it to fit any ordinary 2s lipo battery. Granted, it doesn't take much to make a 2S work in a Db01 but clearly it wasn't designed for 'em. The fact that a DB01-RR exists at all should tell you something. It's like a 1:1 car released for 2013 still rocking 1-wheel drive and dependent front suspension because the engineers haven't figured out basic stuff like differentials yet.

Step out of the past, man. - Or stay there if vintage Tamiya is all you want. But stick with the silver cans and Nicad batteries too.

[DaveB]

I bought a DB02 Leonis but ended up returning it because it just wasn't worth the £250 price tag.

Went with a DB01R in the end and haven't looked back.

In terms of LiPo fitment, you just need a carbon battery strap (one from a TA05 fits straight on), you don't need to do any mods to the chassis whatsoever, a 2S hard pack will go straight in.

[JeepnMike]

I bought a DB02 Leonis but ended up returning it because it just wasn't worth the £250 price tag.

Went with a DB01R in the end and haven't looked back.

In terms of LiPo fitment, you just need a carbon battery strap (one from a TA05 fits straight on), you don't need to do any mods to the chassis whatsoever, a 2S hard pack will go straight in.

I believe the DB01RR's battery tray is designed for LiPo packs as well if he wants to go that route.

[whale22]

Don't be mad...I just bought a df02, rising storm. Guess I AM stuck in the past. Just like bashing and lapping around the track. Nothing too serious. I'll grab a decent brushed motor, 5000 mah NiMH, and go. Maybe once my driving gets better I will get a better buggy. It's not the money...I just like building the things and driving them. Good advice all!

[94eg!]

:S