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ChrisRx718

New CC01 Parts

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I just sold my very hopped-up CC01 because I need to free up some space, but I still have a standard CC01 project and recently noticed these new products from Tamiya.

The 54519 Stroke Extension Kit has already been released and is about £20, but I'm not sure how it works? Has anyone got one / seen one set up?

The 54541 Aluminium oil dampers don't appear to have been released yet - again does anyone know any different? And is there a guide price yet?

Just interested to know how these newly-developed parts actually work on what is quite an old design. The CC01 is one of my favourite models, hopefully when I've got more money and space I can get an extra one!

Just after posting this I found that RC Mart have scanned the manual for the stroke extension on their website. Not sure if hotlinking the image will work -

tamiya-54519-manual.jpg

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What it does is allow the wheel to drop into a hole to try and maintaIn contact on all 4 tyres

If you imagine the truck running on a flat surface, the rear axle wouldn't normally 'drop' one wheel into a hole it'd just be in mid-air, level (ish) with the other wheels as the shocks are set up to compress, not extend - whilst one wheel isn't touching the ground there is a chance some traction will be lost

Also, there's a chance the dropping rear wheel could lift the diagonally-opposite front wheel off the ground as a result - allowing the suspension to extend a little prevents that from happening to some degree

This setup gives you more axle travel, if you compress the shock on one side, you'll get maybe 30 degrees of axle 'rotation'

If you then allow the extended shock on the other side to drop, you end up with maybe 40 degrees of axle rotation

The setup adds a lever or pivot, so if you lift the rear end up, the wheels will drop a little - kinda like a droop setup on a crawler

The rubber pads are to protect the chassis when the setup compresses back to it's normal state

Junfac made something similar for the Hi Lift chassis, their pics probably explain it better - just imagine that end of the leaf spring is the top of your shocks

http://www.junfac.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=267

shackle_5.jpg

shackle_6.jpg

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It's a mod that's been around for years. You'll see lots of home made examples on crawler and scaler sites, often using bike chain links. I wonder if they'll come up with something to improve the front suspension too?

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It's a mod that's been around for years. You'll see lots of home made examples on crawler and scaler sites, often using bike chain links. I wonder if they'll come up with something to improve the front suspension too?

I've done the bike chain mod on the rear of my CC-01 .It adds a fair amount of extra articulation . As for the front end the way I did mine was to use TL-01 LA hubs and lower arms . That allows you to fit longer front shocks . The improvement isn't massive though . At a rough guess I would say it adds around 15 mm extra suspension travel .

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54541 has now been released -

http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio-control-parts-70/tamiya-hop-up-parts-72000/rc-cc01-aluminum-oil-damper-54541

header_54541.jpg

Puuurrrrdy

I have absolutely no need for this; the stock oil shocks perform adequately. Now, where's my credit card...

Yes - Stella had those listed earlier this week - look good for the money..

http://www.stellamodels.com.hk/54541-aluminum-damper-4pcs-p-7796.html

What is the standard length of the CC-01 shocks ?

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I wonder how much longer these new ones are ? - if they are 70mm then they'd be ideal for my Wild One project (although I just fitted Topcad internal spring scale units)

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I suspect they will be the same length as the kit items to be honest, looking at the pictures anyway. I don't think they would release a hop-up which raised the ride height, I think they are just for better performance (or in my case, a bit of bling...)

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The drop down kit is overpriced, IMO, but the price has come down substantially. The shocks, on the otherhand, have a great price.

It's awesome to see more support for the CC-01.

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The drop down kit is overpriced, IMO, but the price has come down substantially. The shocks, on the otherhand, have a great price.

It's awesome to see more support for the CC-01.

For under £4 and a bit of work you can make the drop downs using cycle chain half links . Its a doodle to do .

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Yup, as soon as the price was announced for the link extension kit I crossed it off my wanted list! Absurd for what it contains in my opinion. And as you say, the shock absorbers actually represent very good value for some tamiya aluminium shocks!

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It's awesome to see more support for the CC-01.

I agree, better late than never :)

I hope that Tamiya will plan something for the steering... non-Tamiya steering parts are rubbish IMO :(

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For under £4 and a bit of work you can make the drop downs using cycle chain half links . Its a doodle to do .

I'm fronm the US so I'm not familiar with the saying "It's a doodle to do." Does that mean it's a lot of fun? Sorry.

What size chain did you use? Thank you.

I agree, better late than never :)

I hope that Tamiya will plan something for the steering... non-Tamiya steering parts are rubbish IMO :(

My CC-01 is so new that I haven't had issues with the steering. I think GPM and Yeah Racing are the only options, correct? It would be awesome for Tamiya to offer a steering kit.

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I'm fronm the US so I'm not familiar with the saying "It's a doodle to do." Does that mean it's a lot of fun? Sorry.

What size chain did you use? Thank you.

doodle to do means - real easy . I think I used 3/8 simplex links . They have a removable cross pin that is held in place with a split pin . Simply drill the standard top mount threaded hole out to the fixed pin size , push the link through that and the pin through the other end of your shock top mount . Secure it with the split pin .

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My CC-01 is so new that I haven't had issues with the steering. I think GPM and Yeah Racing are the only options, correct? It would be awesome for Tamiya to offer a steering kit.

My experience: using standard servos things go quite good but if you switch to hi-torque servos stock steering starts to gain play. If you switch to GPM the only result, IMO, is a waste of money, I don't know about the YR's one.

Sorry for OT.

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My experience: using standard servos things go quite good but if you switch to hi-torque servos stock steering starts to gain play. If you switch to GPM the only result, IMO, is a waste of money, I don't know about the YR's one.

Sorry for OT.

There is another fix . I recessed both ends on the tub through hole to take a 1150 bearing either end . I then fitted a internally treaded shaft keyed at either end through this . What you need to do before final assembly is to heat the shaft and press you horns on . They form to the key way . Once its all securely fitted in place the slop is vastly improved . There is a how to on TamiyaUSA.com under Modifying the CC-01 .

I think I need to do some body off chassis shots on my New Bright Jeep CC-01 and some how to photos . Maybe that will explain things better and I can also show how the TL-01LA front suspension mods work .

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Where's the pics Bromw?!

I went ahead with the alloy shock set but passed on the articulation things @£16

null_zpsbe7a03af.jpg

The shocks themselves are of good quality, the adjusters are actually black plastic I reckon instead of alloy.

The piston thingy is either moulded in white plastic or is actually nylon (which would make sense as they would generate less friction) depending on how cynical you are, you decide!

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Kit comes with the 400wt yellow silicone oil but I had a big bottle of slightly less viscous 300wt orange stuff.

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This is the part I hate most about assembling any shocks - fitting the lower connecting adjuster to the piston rod! As a side note, does anyone know if there are replacement plastic 'jaws' for these tamiya pliers? As mine are a bit...broken

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Someone asked what length they were too. Standard CC01 on top, new alloy one below. Both approx 71mm eyelet to eyelet.

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I snapped the instructions but they are very straightforward to assemble...

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Another issue I noticed when I installed them on my truck was that before the shock actually starts to compress the rear lower links 'flex' first, which kinda sucks. Below with no compression on shocks in either pic, but lower pic shows slight force on the rear axle...

null_zpsac73c4ff.jpg

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Junfac upgrade time?! Thought I had done spending on this rig!!

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To solve your lower link flex, just use 2 black zip tie, in the cross ( X ) formation per side, the end of the lower link to the axle. It tightens up the whole rear.

I have checked Junfac parts for 4 shocks, rear diff protection, drive shaft, rear link piece with central diff protection...the total price is more than the entire kit itself :blink: (What stopped me from hitting the confirm button was not sure how long the shocks s/b for CC-01 or the XC. (seems to be around 70mm) At the moment, I cannot justify spending that much on upgrades. The shocks and drive shaft look OEM, but the other options I've mention kind of look after thought. If I visit Junfac site enough times, I will buy the stuff and regret later for buying stuff I don't need. :unsure:

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I know what you mean, I would like the Junfac rear link set and the under-belly skid plate looks the part too. This was supposed to be more of a high-detailed low-speed crawler though, I've spent so much time doing the body it won't see much abuse for risk of damaging it! So I'm a bit dubious about spending even more money on performance upgrades. I had to have these shocks though, serious bling factor!

I found some black springs for the rear end, no idea of their origin, but they seem a little stiffer than the stock silver. One thing I noticed was that the adjusters / collars had to be turned down quite a lot to take up the slack in the spring and stop it coming un-seated at the bottom...

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IMO the Junfac four link set and skid plate is the best value for money improvement you can make on the CC-01 . It truly transforms the rear end in terms of articulation , positive location of the rear axel and the feeling of quality over the stock items . Yes its not cheap and it can be hard to find a seller who has it in stock but its well worth the expense . Those shocks look great - let us know how well they perform please . To my mind all the other so called alloy hop ups are just bling and add nothing in terms of off road performance .

Reillour i'll try to take some chassis shots and explain how I did my mods - just being really busy lately . Sorry

Got any photos of your finished body yet ? Really looking forward to seeing it as its a totally different approach to how I did mine . Your's is more of a looker and kudos for that whereas mine is a bit more the rough and ready scale runner .

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My experience: using standard servos things go quite good but if you switch to hi-torque servos stock steering starts to gain play. If you switch to GPM the only result, IMO, is a waste of money, I don't know about the YR's one.

Sorry for OT.

I found the key to getting good slop-free performance from the GPM steering assembly is to use good-quality threadlock to secure the upper and lower horns to the shaft. Without it, the horns can move relative to the shaft even when the screws are fully tightened, leading to almost as much slop as a standard steering system.

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Another issue I noticed when I installed them on my truck was that before the shock actually starts to compress the rear lower links 'flex' first, which kinda sucks. Below with no compression on shocks in either pic, but lower pic shows slight force on the rear axle...

null_zpsac73c4ff.jpg

null_zpse87b3f90.jpg

Junfac upgrade time?! Thought I had done spending on this rig!!

I had the same issue on mine, and solved it with the Junfac link and skidplate kit. Best money I ever spent on my CC01 - it totally transformed the car from a slightly disappointing toy to a proper piece of hobby-grade gear with a quality feel.

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I found the key to getting good slop-free performance from the GPM steering assembly is to use good-quality threadlock to secure the upper and lower horns to the shaft. Without it, the horns can move relative to the shaft even when the screws are fully tightened, leading to almost as much slop as a standard steering system.

Unfotunately I've already tried with thread locker and it didn't worked :(

I guess that the real problem is where the shaft enter in to the horns: there isn't enough contact surface. A spline design or a grub screw design should help.

A different material for shaft would work better to. IMO B)

In a italian board a guy that owns several GPM steering kits argued that some parts work well and some other doesn't.

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