Jump to content
ddaenen1

Finally a Dyna Storm!

Recommended Posts

Was looking for a new project and had my preferences. Either an ORV or SRB but preferrably a Dyna Storm but since only several weeks ago i passed on the deal of a lifetime i thought finding an affordable one wwould be mission impossible until i spotted what i though was a DS on a blury picture of a lot sales on a local 2nd hand site. I made an offer to the seller and eventually, we found a deal.

Here a first pic of my acquisition! :D When i made the offer, i didn't know all of this was included but i can tell you, even without all the additional parts,it is a steal!

DS001.JPG

Now i starting reading in preparation of the restoration and already have a few questions:

- How can i tell the difference between an original and a re-re?

- The lower deck does not seem to be the original FRP version. Seems carbon to me. Anybody knows what it is, e.g. custom or hop-up?

- There are 2 motors included, on the one installed i cannot see what it is and another pic i have is too blury to identify the end bell so i'll have to wait until the parcel arrives. The 2nd one is a Kyosho Mega Motor but i do not know which type. Any hints?

- It is not clear to me if also the original came with the Acto Pink. Did it?

Any other observations from the picture are much appreciated. As with the Avante a full restoration will follow in this thread.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi, substantially there were no difference between the original and the rere. The mayor difference was the motor. The original cames without motor but was higly suggested the Acto Power Pink motor. The re re cames with a pink motor that was also a re re of the Acto Power but without the label

I believe yours is an original if has no the pink unlabeled motor.

The lower deck is a carbon fiber custom chassis plate from Fibre Lyte UK.

http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/

http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/fl/cars/tamiya/dyna.html

The kyosho mega motor seems the 2WD one. You can see it in this italian auction:

http://annunci.ebay.it/annunci/collezionismo-e-fai-da-te/padova-annunci-albignasego/kyosho-mega-motor-rc/9222778

Max

- How can i tell the difference between an original and a re-re?

- The lower deck does not seem to be the original FRP version. Seems carbon to me. Anybody knows what it is, e.g. custom or hop-up?

- There are 2 motors included, on the one installed i cannot see what it is and another pic i have is too blury to identify the end bell so i'll have to wait until the parcel arrives. The 2nd one is a Kyosho Mega Motor but i do not know which type. Any hints?

- It is not clear to me if also the original came with the Acto Pink. Did it?

Any other observations from the picture are much appreciated. As with the Avante a full restoration will follow in this thread.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi, substantially there were no difference between the original and the rere. The mayor difference was the motor. The original cames without motor but was higly suggested the Acto Power Pink motor. The re re cames with a pink motor that was also a re re of the Acto Power but without the label

I believe yours is an original if has no the pink unlabeled motor.

The lower deck is a carbon fiber custom chassis plate from Fibre Lyte UK.

http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/

http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/fl/cars/tamiya/dyna.html

The kyosho mega motor seems the 2WD one. You can see it in this italian auction:

http://annunci.ebay.it/annunci/collezionismo-e-fai-da-te/padova-annunci-albignasego/kyosho-mega-motor-rc/9222778

Max

Many thanks for the feedback, Max.

Is the Fibre-lyte considered to be an upgrade on the DS or is it recommended to go back to the original FRP chassis plate? Since i am also suspecting this is an original, i don't hold high hopes that the motor installed will be the Acto Pink Power. The car has been posted to me today and should arrive in the next days, let's wait and see.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Carbon fiber is always an upgrade in front of FRP chassis plate in my opinion.

If you will use it the car will go better.

If don't use it the car is more nice to see.

Max

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Carbon is stiffer. This means in hi-traction situations you can use it to reduce the chassis twist and retain the similar chassis characteristics you had on a low-traction track with the standard FRP deck. High traction will flex the chassis more, so you need a stiffer chassis.

Carbon isn't "better", just different. All tuning aids.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Today my Dyna Storm arrived. I didn't know what to expect as the pictures on the 2nd hand site were not very detailled but all in all i am extremely pleased with my purchase. Here is why:

At first glance, the car has some defects but nothing that cannot be fixed with a healthy dose of TLC and some cash ofcourse but most important, all main parts seem intact and the car is very complete. Some fasteners missing and until now, i only noticed that the rear shock tower is cracked and the gear cap has a cracked. Nothing that cannot be fixed.

IMG-20131107-00144.jpg

It came with a pink motor of which i knew it was a vintage Kyosho Mega Motor Outlaw stock 22x1 which will most likely end up in the for sale section as i am not going to build a Kyosho motor in a vintage tamiya :rolleyes: so if anybody is interested in this one, just PM me.

IMG-20131107-00153.jpg

But i noticed that the car also had a motor built in which i hadn't seen on the pictures of the car so that needed a closer look...

IMG-20131107-00145.jpg

Hmmm, this looked very familiar...could it be? Let's get a screw driver...AND YES! The little bonus i got with the car was....a genuine Dyna Tech 02R :D :D :D

Dirty, but in very good shape so to see

IMG_0715.jpg

Put it on a battery straight away and it even runs! :D :D :D

Restoring this baby will keep me busy for quite some time. I am not sure if i will put the Dyna Tech in or if i will start a hunt for an Acto Power Pink. In any case, i have a worthy replacement if i can't find one.

Next step, disassembling the car. This is something for the coming weekend.

To be continued...

P.S. i appologise for the blury pictures but i will get sharp ones once i can grab the ipad from my childrens' clutches <_<

UPDATE: replaced the blury Blackberry picture of the Dynatech 02H with a sharper example done by the ipad :)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I own one of these, lovely 2 wheel car, not as much fun as the Madcap mind you its more grown up if that makes sense, brilliant find and buy mate, will stay tuned for sure

also like the bonus o2h! sweet :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This car's ball diff is a PITA to get setup properly. It has a stupid jam-screw locking the diff-adjust screw in the opposite outdrive. This means you have to undo both sides of the suspension every time you want to make a diff adjustment. Those who have any experience with ball diffs & 2WD will understand that diff adjustment happens quite frequently.

If you are not familiar with setting up a ball diff & slipper combo on a car, you have no idea what I'm talking about. But you are in for a very steep learning curve. Put aside some patience and post back in this thread if you need any help getting it tuned.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

BTW: Good score on the 02H (not 02R ;)). Brushes are still available on ebay though they are expensive. The cool part is they replace almost the entire top-half of the motor. If you plan on running this motor, definitely keep 1 spare set handy.

If you do plan on replacing the brushes & re-using the old rotor shaft, definitely have old commutator trued first at an RC shop. Running new brushes on an out-of-round comm will quickly wear the brushes and accelerate wear on the comm.

The other cool part about this motor is the rotors are still plentiful and come in two different options. The standard is a 13 turn, and the hop-up version is a 10 turn. If you purchase one of these, you will definitely need a dedicated brush set to go along with it. You don't really want to run old brushes against a new comm.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used the Dyna Storm on the track for many time and did set up the diff only one time and stop, never touched. But here in Italy the tracks are made of ground and gravel, not the astro-turf like in the UK. Maybe your tracks have many more grip amd the mechanic is more stressed.

Max

This car's ball diff is a PITA to get setup properly. It has a stupid jam-screw locking the diff-adjust screw in the opposite outdrive. This means you have to undo both sides of the suspension every time you want to make a diff adjustment. Those who have any experience with ball diffs & 2WD will understand that diff adjustment happens quite frequently.

If you are not familiar with setting up a ball diff & slipper combo on a car, you have no idea what I'm talking about. But you are in for a very steep learning curve. Put aside some patience and post back in this thread if you need any help getting it tuned.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine usually doesn't hit the track, it's mostly been for bashing. So what works on asphalt vs super dusty vegas dirt are completely different.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you are not familiar with setting up a ball diff & slipper combo on a car, you have no idea what I'm talking about. But you are in for a very steep learning curve. Put aside some patience and post back in this thread if you need any help getting it tuned.

Well, i have experience enough with ball diffs but none whatsoever with slipperclutches so this will be fun :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well keep in touch when it's time to set the car up for driving. The trick is keeping the slipper set looser than the diff at all times.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great, great model (and motor too)!

This is my, and me too, i'm not sure if it's a re-re or not. No engine was provided.

dinastorm1.jpg

but I have find this strange PINK Tamiya motor. Same of Pink Acto power offroader, without label, without external filter as the re-re pink motor...

DT-02-00141.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is what I always assumed to be either a "handout" version, or factory "surplus" of the original Acto 2WD that JR-RC used to sell on eBay. I have one also, and it's quite good. That motor in my Dyna Storm was powerful enough to trip the over-current protection in the CPR P160f once I switched her to Lipo. :ph34r:

BTW: I think the only possible tell-tail to it being an original DS would be if it had bushings inside the front wheels. That's the only difference I'm aware of. If the bushings were swapped for bearings, then there's no telling.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good score, restored one this year, and its such a wonderful car, I've tested her on asphalt, nothing more, i live in hope Tamiya will re re, the re re lol, as spares cost me a wedge when i did mine, would be nice to have another one for the shelf, run my Nimrod modded one and give it some stick!

lee

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And check the bushing in the clutch bell. In the re release there's a ball bearing.

The pink Acto without laber is the re re motor.

Max

That is what I always assumed to be either a "handout" version, or factory "surplus" of the original Acto 2WD that JR-RC used to sell on eBay. I have one also, and it's quite good. That motor in my Dyna Storm was powerful enough to trip the over-current protection in the CPR P160f once I switched her to Lipo. :ph34r:

BTW: I think the only possible tell-tail to it being an original DS would be if it had bushings inside the front wheels. That's the only difference I'm aware of. If the bushings were swapped for bearings, then there's no telling.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can anybody tell me what the purpose or the advantage of the narrow lower chassis is as i am considering whether i should keep it or replace it by the wide FRP version.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The narrow chassis is mainly for weight saving, I would guess. It has pros and cons. The main con is that you can't use the original chassis side rails, and you lose mounting space for the electrics. The main pro is that it looks cool!

I would only run the narrow chassis if you can find an under tray - running narrow without a tray leaves huge gaps for debris to get into the chassis.

Fibre-lyte in the UK still sell full Dyna Storm carbon chassis sets (inc. narrow and wide lower decks and both shock towers). You can buy individual parts too. The only things to note are that the upper decks are supplied as one long part, so the battery tray will need some mods to use this as is. Also, the front and rear shock towers are thicker 3mm carbon, so the front tower mount needs some trimming to get it to fit.

I have an unused rere Acto Pink motor is you are interested.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And check the bushing in the clutch bell. In the re release there's a ball bearing.

The pink Acto without laber is the re re motor.

Max

Max, that motor is definitely the older motor with the ball bearings. The end bell is completely different on the re-re pink motor (mostly black aluminum with gold brush-hoods, and a small circuit board sticking out).

Can anybody tell me what the purpose or the advantage of the narrow lower chassis is as i am considering whether i should keep it or replace it by the wide FRP version.

The narrow chassis IS for weight savings as well as flex tuning. A narrow carbon chassis "could" have equal flex to a wide "FRP" chassis while being considerably lighter. Depending on the amount of available traction, you may want to reduce or increase the amount of flex in your chassis to keep your car behaving the way you like it.

Flexier chassis for low-traction conditions

or

Stiffer chassis for high-traction conditions

equals

Car twists (behaves) the same in either circumstances

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Last night was disassembly night for the Dyna Storm and this is what you get after 2 hours:

Dyna Storm OIB (old in box)

IMG_0713.jpg

First impression of the parts:

- All parts are very dirty but in good shape

- Ball diff.has never seen any grease which you can see on the pic (but in the sparesbox is a new one and new balls)

- Gearbox has never seen any grease - i rarely have seen such dry gears

- The rear shock tower is a strange case - what i though was a crack is actually removed with a saw. I do not understand why

- Some screws were missing but doesn't matter as they will be replaced with stainless hex-screws

- fait divers: now that i disassembled the car and have seen the DS gears, i know the previous owner also owned an Avante 2001, Vanquish or an Egress as in the spares box were 2 Avante diffs and the very specific ball joint of the rear stabiliser bar.

I do not know if i will get anything done today as i have alot on my plate but since it is a long weekend (Monday = bank holiday in BE) you can expect a little progress at least.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Since i haven't made up my mind on the lower deck yet, i started with revising the gearbox. I mentioned earlier that the gearbox hadn't seen any grease but now i am confused because the manual doesn't mention anything about grease in the gearbox, only in the diff. which to me is very strange.

Can somebody give me some direction on this one?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just checked my manual, and it says to grease the centre gear in stage 15. I'm guessing that the thinking is that this will spread to the diff and layshaft gears when they all rotate. I put a fair amount in when I built mine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, the manual i downloaded doesn't say anything on putting grease in step 15 but i did notice that my manual is the one from the re-re. I am going to put a good dose of Cera-grease in. I don't see how that can hurt.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...