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ddaenen1

Finally a Dyna Storm!

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Diff finished with a nice new gear and balls from the spares box that came with the car.

Diff.jpg

Gearbox is completed with cera-grease inside :) .

Geabox.jpg

Now i need to revise the slipper clutch. I see that this one comes with spur gears with different pitch. Any reason why i should put the 0.4 module on or the 64 pitch? What are the pro's and con's?

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0.4 and 64p are identical. You can choose the pinion module that you prefer.

Max

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Yeah a very light coat of cera grease is best. Just enough to make them seem moist. Anything else will get flung off anyways.

And 0.4m and 64p are NOT identical. 0.4mod is actually 63.5pitch and will cause accelerated wear when paired with 64pitch. This is the reason they provide you with both versions of the spur. The only reason to use one or the other would depend on what pinions you have available. Back in 1990 I'm sure Tamiya was the only company making 0.4mod gears. Having the 64p spur allowed to use another brands pinions.

If your doing a resto, you should probably use 0.4 mod and get a Tamiya pinion to go with it. The smaller 0.4 ones in the RD-Pinion series are steel, and the bigger ones are aluminum. The latest TRF 0.4 pinions are aluminum with a hard anodized coating (too modern IMO). Either way I remember this thing uses pretty small pinions so consult your manual. I think all of mine that fit were Steel.

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I used for a long time mixed modules on my Dyna Storm without problems, strange noises, wear or breakages. The difference is so small that I believe is not a problem. This is only my experience about.

Max

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Today a couple of things done. Revised the slipper clutch. I used the 0.4m spur gear as i have a 24T 0.4 pinion which is perfect for the Dynatech 02H.

Slipper%20clutch.jpg

The spur gear is not new but the best one in the lot :) I may need to clean that a little more.

After that i finished the front train and assembled it to the chassis. Interesting point here: I noticed that the front train didn't fit the Fibre-Lyte lower deck properly. Explains straight away the scuff marks of the steering on the bracket. The half open slotted hole was too short and the other 2 slotted holes were too short and a little too narrow. Nothing that a round file couldn't fix but it did explain the fact why the front train was assembled only with 1 screw when i received the car. Also assembled the battery compartiment but here is where i am stuck now as i ran out of 3x10 hex countersunks so need to place a new order before i can proceed.

Front%20drive.jpg

So what to do now? Revise the Dynatech ofcourse! Completely disassembled and cleaned properly. Assembled again and made new terminal wires. Looks like new to me B)

DT02H.jpg

I do have some parts that could use replacement though. The small plastic bracket on the back (E5) has a cracked boss. Also the front drivetrain bracket (D5) has a small crack and would need replacement over time. If someone has one spare, much appreciated.

I will need to order a new batch of 3x10mm countersunk hex screws which hopefully will come in by the end of next week so i can proceed next weekend.

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In my limited experience, aftermarket chassis plates are always off. I've not seen one yet that impressed me. The real trick is finding one of the original Tamiya carbon chassis plates. These were an option in the back of the manual for the original DS.

I snagged these pictures of one off ebay years ago (one of only two I've ever seen):

Carbon-Dyna-5.jpg

Carbon-Dyna-4.jpg

Carbon-Dyna-3.jpg

Carbon-Dyna-2.jpg

Carbon-Dyna-1.jpg

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Just a quick update for those who are wondering. I was out on business travel all week so the project was on idle. Did however order the stainless countersunks and received i needed as i ran out and made the decision to revert the car back to the original lower FRP chassis. I did find a lower deck from a friendly TC member and once that is in (hopefully in the course of next week) i will be able to continue the build.

Still need to order a new rear shock tower but that is not a bottleneck at the moment and i will probably do it tonight. I am worried about decals though as i haven't found any so far, not even repro's. Any tips on that are much appreciated.

Cheers, Dominique

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Just a quick update for those who are wondering. I was out on business travel all week so the project was on idle. Did however order the stainless countersunks and received i needed as i ran out and made the decision to revert the car back to the original lower FRP chassis. I did find a lower deck from a friendly TC member and once that is in (hopefully in the course of next week) i will be able to continue the build.

Still need to order a new rear shock tower but that is not a bottleneck at the moment and i will probably do it tonight. I am worried about decals though as i haven't found any so far, not even repro's. Any tips on that are much appreciated.

Cheers, Dominique

I had a lucky score with decals from a member here for mine, but they aren't cheap, place a wanted ad buddy, I'm sure you will find some, but have to pay a premium sadly, it is a lovely set though, and i tried and tried to track down repros, to no avail.

lee

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You won't find repro's as nobody prints florescent inks. Therefore they would look like garbage.

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You won't find repro's as nobody prints florescent inks. Therefore they would look like garbage.

Good point but not good news :( Hopefully one will fly buy sooner or later, i would hate not being able to complete this build

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Today the FRP plates came in. Nice stuff for which many thanks to Fristajlo.

IMG-20131119-00179.jpg

Since my stainless countersunks came in some time ago i was finally able to make some progress. all parts now assembled on the lower deck and this is as far as i can go following the manual steps.

DS%20lower%20deck.jpg

To move forward, i still need to order the rear FRP damper stay and some small bits such as a couple of press nuts. With these bits, i will be able to complete the chassis. After that, it will be a quest to find some decals as paint is waiting and a body in sight. I hope this won't take ages as i cannot wait to run this baby :D

I will keep you all posted.

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DEFINITELY DON'T RUN IT WITH REAL DECALS. The 1st thing on this car to get destroyed is the rear wing's decals when you roll over. The body itself does fine as long as your not running in rocks.

BTW: Looks 1000 times better with the original FRP chassis. :D

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DEFINITELY DON'T RUN IT WITH REAL DECALS. The 1st thing on this car to get destroyed is the rear wing's decals when you roll over. The body itself does fine as long as your not running in rocks.

BTW: Looks 1000 times better with the original FRP chassis. :D

Thats a good tip. The wing that came with the car is still good. Just needs a paint job. So i will use that one to run and keep the decal-version for display. I do the same with my Top Force. I have a body and wing for running and one for display. :)

On the FRP chassis remark, i couldn't agree more! B)

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What is your plan for protecting that chassis & side guards? Chassis film works pretty well. I think I run 2 layers.

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I have a new body and decals. but they are definitely not for sale.

it took me long enough to get them. sorry.

here is a pic of my 2

008_zps4ab37f75.jpg

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I have a new body and decals. but they are definitely not for sale.

it took me long enough to get them. sorry.

So why are you mentioning that, just to make me feel more desperate :P :P :P

Rear FRP damper stay and press nuts ordered together with new front wheels so i have a set for display and a set to run. doubtful i will receive them before the end of the week though.

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So why are you mentioning that, just to make me feel more desperate

That's what I was gonna say... ಠ_ಠ

DAK!

i_know_that_feel_bro_by_rober_raik-d4cxn

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Dominique, if you want to sell the fibrelyte lower deck please let me know, it would involve shipping to australia though :) I am lucky enough to have the nimrod undertray and I have eliminated the side pods on mine so it'd be perfect :)

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Dominique, if you want to sell the fibrelyte lower deck please let me know, it would involve shipping to australia though :) I am lucky enough to have the nimrod undertray and I have eliminated the side pods on mine so it'd be perfect :)

PM sent :)

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I managed to work on the DS a little again over the weekend. I finished the rear powertrain and am now revising the rear dampers. I am hoping to finish the chassis end of this week and then continue my quest for a body and decals. For the body i still have the ***** option as a backup but no alternative for the decals so far.

Pictures to follow tonight.

Cheers, DD

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Here the pics.

Finished the rear powertrain including the shiny 02H :)

DS1.jpg?psid=1

Ofcourse completely done with stainless hex screws

DS3.jpg

So this is how far we got last weekend.

DS2.jpg

Things to do:

- Revise the rear dampers (already on it)

- assemble rest of the parts, wheels, tires (need new rear ones but the current ones will do for now)

- assemble the vintage electronics

- Continue quest for body and decals :mellow:

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if you are looking for K parts I just got a set from www.tamico.de seem to be the only place in Europe to have them.

you wouldn't happen to know where I could find a E parts?

what is putting you off the ***** body? I was thinking of getting one for a runner.

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what is putting you off the ***** body? I was thinking of getting one for a runner.

The only thing that puts me off is the shipping cost because it is almost the same cost to ship it to me as the price of the body itself, nothing else.

Sorry, don't know where to get E-parts. Did see the K-parts on Tamico but mine are still fully functional although slightly scratched (which i don't mind as it is and stays a vintage model).

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I have a quick question for the Dyna Storm experts. As you can see on the front of my DS, there are the normal springs and in the back there are yellow ones. Can someone shed some light on the yellow ones? Are they an official DS hopup and what are the characteristics of the yellow springs?

Just considering whether they can stay on or i need to revert back to the original ones (which then means i have to go and find them somewhere)

Thanks, Dominique

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