Jump to content
ddaenen1

Finally a Dyna Storm!

Recommended Posts

I'd hazard a guess they are non Tamiya items, most likely Associated of Losi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

are the yellow springs maybe from rear hi-caps? the re-re hi-caps I have are all yellow springs, just a thought.

the postage cost is one thing putting me off the ***** body the other is quality. I got one from them for a Grb and it was pants, the lexan at the rear was really thin and there was no definition between the bumper and the body only what looked like a cut line.

I thought the buggy bodies might be better as there is no real details in them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My Dyna body is *****, and its great, not thin at all and pretty much on par with the used OE body i had.

lee

SAM_0446_zps8a1da700.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just be sure you mask out the windows. The window decals are transparent smoke color which allow you to see the blue body underneath them. I applied the window decals & white pin-stripes 1st before painting. Then I used them as guids for masking on the inside.

DynaStorm-1.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah i didn't mask mine, life being too short and all, but if the fate of the world depends on it, shoot for the moon :lol:

lee

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I done that to ralphee, :( just blasted in there with the spray can. you think they would supply window masks.

also whats with the lack of protective film on the Tamiya bodies? do the ***** bodies have it?

94eg! I did remember when I painted my second body though. :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

also whats with the lack of protective film on the Tamiya bodies? do the ***** bodies have it?

Don't understand that comment. I never had a Tamiya body that was without protective film.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

all 3 dyna storm re-re bodies I have had never had the protective film on the outside. yes they are genuine Tamiya items one in a kit box from japan and two in the Tamiya bags from Germany.

I don't know if this applied only to the re-re's but none of them had it. which is a pain.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Protective film and window masks are a newer thing. Remember the re-re Dyna was from way back in 2002. If you think those baby windows are hard to mask, try painting a Vanquish canopy? Talk about a nightmare of masking. Especially if you want to have the thin black outline shown on the pre-production models. <_<

Yes ***** have a blue protective film. I have a ***** vanquish body, and I can definitely say it's not the best. While it maintains all the detail, it definitely isn't perfect. To me it appears the hot back-pour into the original body distorted the original lexan making if flared out at the sides and squat. Imagine a body upisde down being filled with heavy liquid (the sides bow outward). I know the body wasn't mashed in shipping either cause the excess areas sat perfectly square on my table before cutting them off. I wouldn't blow original stickers on one unless I was CERTAIN the body fit the chassis perfectly 1st.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks 94eg!. no I certainly wouldn't put original decals on a repro body.

might give a ***** one ago in the new year get some TRF decals for it.

the vanquish was great fun to mask up, the fire dragon was also a pleasure to mask using tape.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

lol. Doing this one made me want to scratch my eyes out.

D20_0119.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

***** shells are a recast, so there is always going to be detail loss, and in many cases, shrinkage. The Yokomo YZ10 shells they offer suffer from this terribly as I've had a couple, painted them, and still never fitted them, there tiny. The 'storm shell they offer is of good quality thickness, and fit though, i made sure of that before off loading my OE one, that was pretty scuffed anyway.

As for masking, the Dyna windows are an easy one, i just couldn't be bothered at the time lol, use tape on the outer, draw the pattern, and then cut and stick to the inside, just remember its reversed, but its a quick easy fix, but then masking is something i have nailed painting prop replicas, but its not so bad.

As for Avante/Vanquish dome canopies, i pretty much masked my entire avante dome with one piece of tape, bending as you lay it, but latex is a superb option if you have a steady hand to paint it in there.

lee

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

PSH! The Avante is an easy one, The decal sheet comes with black trim to cover up your painted edges. The Vanquish is a different story completely. No such cover up or assistance from Tamiya on this one. The detail lines are extremely difficult to see when laying down tape. And you cannot lay down pin-strips of tape around the entire edge of the window due to the extremely tight curves. All masked edges are fully exposed on the finished model and there are 3 layers of them to do (if you want the black trim line around the window).

Anyways, enough of my rambling nonsense. Back to the Dyna Storm.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Psh, id mask that Vanquish easily mate, its not a bad job you did though, latex would have worked much better and made cleaner lines where you have a bit of tape wave, ho hum. Indeed, back to the Dyna build!

lee

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

on eBay just now a DS that comes with a spare body set item number 271340926985.

the guy is brand new I bought a DS from him. japan to the uk in under a week.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I finally made it to find some time to work a little on the DS. Rear dampers are on now and i completed the front part. Starts to look like a Dyna Storm again. Not happy with the rear dampers yet though. I got rid of the yellow springs and replaced them with Hi-cap srpings i still had but the diameter is too tight for the damper housing so i need to get me some DS rear damper springs. Also the lower bits are from the hi-caps as the ones that were on were not the originals either so i need to get some Y-parts also.

DS5.jpg

Interesting thing here. I decided to put the original servo back in the came with the car. It's a Ko-Propo PS-1002 FET servo and it has, apart from the normal cable string, a separate wire coming out to connect to separate wire coming out of the Novak ESC. Does anybody know the function of this and is there any advantage?

DS6.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Older KO servos has a separate power lead in simple terms buddy, connect that up to your Novak ESC blue wire!

lee

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's now almost 2 weeks since i last was able to work on the DS and it's killing me! Work was though and i needed to finish those house refurb jobs a had been postponing for ages. Now x-mas is almost here and we have visitors so no DS continueing either. At least i will have my hands full once the holidays are over! Need to finish the DS, the Avante 2K1 shell is on its way to me and i bought another 1988 Avante, mainly for some vintage parts but knowing me, before i know it i will be restoring it again.

Will keep you guys posted.

Happy holidays, DD

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I finally made it to do some work again on the DS. Installed the original electronics that came with the purchase, a Novak 410 HPc ESC, the Ko Propo FET servo and the Futaba tx/rx. Works like a charm and quite fast in combination with the Dynatech 02H. Also i am quite amazed about the speed of the Ko Propo FET servo. The only downside is that the Novak seems to be a forward only ESC which i don't like very much. I will see if i will keep that in to run it.

The quest for decals still continue. I made up my mind not to search anymore an original body and will order the ***** in the next days.

Pictures to follow...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Every 3-wire ESC is going to be forward only becuase the motor' is directly hard-wired to the batteries positive terminal. That means no possibility of reversing polarity inside the ESC. They do this because it easily the most efficient path. In fact, any "good" brushed ESC is going to be forward only. Adding reverse increase weight & resistance due to the complexity.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, i had a first quick run yesterday evening. Must say, it runs really smooth. Decided to keep the ESC as it works perfect with the DS and also from a vintage point of view, the DS, the Novak and the Ko Propo just fit together.

Now for the tuning of the slipper clutch. I believe it is too loose as you hear it slipping when i go forward. The question is, how much should it be able to slip. I guess the aim should be to have it set so that the rear wheels do not spin but are on the boundry of doing so, right? I read earlier in this thread to have the slipper clutch more loose than the balldiff. I always set my balldiffs on the tight side having learned once they set in, they get a little looser by themselves so i believe i do have some margin. Any tips on the tuning?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To see if the ball diff is tighter than the slipper, all you need to do is remove the gear cover. Then lock one of the rear wheels onto the table with your forearm and hold the spur tight with your thumb. Now grab the other wheel with the full force of your hand making something in the transmission slip.

- If the slipper is looser than the diff, you will see the slipper nut start spinning (slipper is slipping) PASS

- If the slipper is too tight, the slipper nut will NOT spin (your diff is slipping) FAIL

So long as you're satisfied with your diff setting, you can tighten the slipper down as much as you want so long as it passes this test. You should always re-check after a few runs as parts wear in and your diff loosens up. And ALWAYS re-check this setting if you ever adjust or rebuild the diff (especially loosen).

Some set the slipper so tight it will lift the front of the car up a good 3 inches if you held the back tires and jammed the throttle. This setting can pull light wheelies on the track. Some set it so that you only hear slipping the 1st meter or two on a full throttle launch. Of course this all depends on your current traction conditions.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also I forgot to mention the diff adjustment....

If you aren't sure hot to set your diff in the 1st place, I follow this as my baseline for 2WD:

- Lift car off table

- Slap one of your rear tires with an open hand to make it spin (don't go crazy King Kong on it)

- Count number of rotations

- Repeat several times to get a good average # of rotations

- Now adjust your diff so your wheels only make 1 full rotation when spun.

Each diff adjustment must be done by removing the upper arms and popping the driveshaft out of the outdrive (leave the wheels on). This gains access to the diff screw with your allen-key. The DS is a PITA to adjust the diff because you must undo BOTH rear upper arms at the beginning and end. This is because one side of the diff has the adjusting screw, and the other has a locking jam-screw (you better know which is which). You can do the diff setup test outlined above without tightening your jam-screw, but you better be sure to lock it down before you go driving.

This is my typical baseline that keeps the rear diff free enough for good driving.
PS: Always re-check your diff & slipper settings after each outing just to be safe. The diff wears in a lot during the 1st couple runs and will get much looser. Ball diffs require this sort of care. I know it's a annoying to pop the spur cover on & off a lot, but definitely worth it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...