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mr crispy

Hammers time

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Nice to see you're making progress, even from the short clips it looks a bit more planted and stable. Though I can't help thinking that it would probably handle better at speed without the spare wheel. But is it worth sacrificing that scale look?

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You're probably right but I do like the look and it's a soft bumper :) I was thinking I'd try sinking it into the frame a bit lower.

Forgot to mention I moved the rear links to the lower attachment point in the chassis.

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I'm going to make my own version of the GCM axle truss

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Together these are suppose to improve the rear link geometry and reduce the torque twist.

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Yeah, I don't think I'd want to lose the spare wheel either. It would look good if you could sink it further into the frame and at least the weight would be a bit lower. Revising the link mounts looks sensible, it ought to be another step in the right direction. I thought I saw a post somewhere where the rear shocks had been repositioned more towards the wheels and more upright, but typically I can't find it now.

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Been fiddling with my rear end this morning :) I found if I turned the ESC around I could drop the spare wheel further into the cage, made easier by rotating the cross bar so it now looks like it was designed to fit around the wheel.

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I doubt it makes much difference to the COG, it could've gone lower but I liked how it looked with this arrangement

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The wheel is again held in place by two screws through the side cage into the tyre.

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Went back to the rec ground today to test out the new battery position with the 4200 shorty along with the weighted wheels and a bit more preload on the rear shocks... it's now handles so much better. It'll still lift the front righthand wheel but it's much more controllable, high speed turns are now possible and it generally behaved much better. Here's how it performed on the smooth running surface, pushing it further until it rolled

Here it is on the gravel track

I'm a lot happier with that now, think I'll try the rear sway bar next to improve the high speed handling and reduce the chassis rolling. It has a tendency to land nose down on a jump but I think thats more to do with the rear shocks preload set high to counter the chassis roll, so with the sway bar I hope I can soften them and improve its landings.

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Mr. Thor, just wondering if the metal steering knuckle and the 15 ° offset worthwhile option? I got the fr n rr sway bar set and the fr lock diff piece. I am more on the bling side. your thoughts with much thanks in advance.

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I'd probably go for the metal knuckles if these ones break mate, I had to fit metal ones on my Wraith as it was damaged when I got it and not had any problems since. Not seen these 15% offsets, what difference are they suppose to make?

What difference have the sway bars made to yours Tamiya1/10, are they worth fitting? My front diff is unlocked but I suspect the previous owner has filled it with a stuff grease as it has a limited slip effect and as I'm happy with it I've not opened it yet.

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To honest with you, I haven't even open the box yet...No instructions came with parts I bought...maybe is in the manual? i went with the sway bars was because they don't cost a lot and i think they would look cool. The lock piece was from my experience with the xc/cc model and does make a big difference. The 15° offset is for the rear wheel for better cornering? I am just accumlating hop ups for the day that i decide to take the big mallet out. Is tough digging it out from my hidding place. The Mrs. don't know i have another kit in the house.:-|

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So, update time. Front and rear sway bars fitted. I went with the hardest bar on the rear and the medium on the front. Rear shock springs are a little below halfway which does give it a little more of a "butt in the air" look than I wanted but it tames the rollover. I'm thinking I may limit the rear shock travel by slipping some tubing over the inner shaft, that'll give me a chance to open and check the shock oil too, something I've yet to do.

Took it out for a spin in the woods today on a well used mountain bike/BMX trail and completely forgot it's Autumn! I think the video explains it better... :)

It was like driving into the Batcave :) Still good fun had by all and the car behaved nicely even though I couldn't tell what the ground was about to throw at it!

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Take a brush with you next time :P Looking a lot more stable now which means i'll have to spend MORE cash Grrrrrrrrr................ BUT i can blame it on you :lol:

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Been doing a few trail runs over the winter but not much changed on the car until yesterday. Finally got some Humbrol Desert Tan to repaint the panels and a Matt varnish to give them some protection.

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Nice to get some definition between the panels and the cage.

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I've got to stop reading this thread, it could end up being very bad for my wallet!!

You mentioned a Wraith, which do you rate higher, this or the Axial?

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I've got to stop reading this thread, it could end up being very bad for my wallet!!

You mentioned a Wraith, which do you rate higher, this or the Axial?

Why STOP reading it? you know you want one :D:P I have both aswell and am stuck on the same Question! they are both a heck of a lot of fun but prolly sliding slightly more to my twin hammers :ph34r: .

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You mentioned a Wraith, which do you rate higher, this or the Axial?

That's a hard one. Both of them tick a lot of the same boxes for me. Did the crazy rock racer thing with both of them but it's not really what I'm into. I prefer a scale trail driver that can handle a bit of light crawling so fitting slower motors was a must. The Wraith was still pretty mad with a standard silvercan and it overheated quickly. I now run both the TH & Wraith with a 35T HPI budget motor with built in fan. Speeds are more to my liking. I found the TH 2 speed gearbox a little disappointing, the ratios are too close in my opinion so there isn't too much difference between high and low gear. As it is now with the 35T motor slow gear is good for trails but is still a bit quick for crawling, high gear is ok but not really quick enough to really have some fast fun! Need to give it a few more proper runs to decide and it's a pain to get to the gubbins. The Wraith on the other hand is pretty easy to drop the transmission and motor out. I can do a motor swap in about 5 mins. The quality of both chassis is about the same with hex head button screws on both cars. Both have a tough, robust feel and can handle a lot of abuse. The TH is about the same size as a standard Tamiya 1/10 buggy, the Wraith is a lot bigger more like a 1/8 car.

If you're thinking of getting either it may come down to how much you enjoy the build. I got both mine 2nd hand so were RTR with a few mods. I think the Wraith would be great fun to build and I would've enjoyed it. AFAIK the TH is only available RTR. Also there are a ton of hop up parts for the Wraith as it's been around longer and is clearly a popular car in the US and Far East.

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Thanks for such a detailed answer, definitely food for thought. I'm leaning towards the Wraith but I like what you've done with your TH, the way you're exploring and developing the car's potential. Anyway, I need to save up before I make any decisions!

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