if i had a hammer , i would hammer in the morning !

[biggamehunter 127]

hi all after there being a fair bit of interest in this section about the vaterra twin hammers , i thought i would share mine , i only recently purchased this so yet to run it properly , its had a few set up trials but not realy "hammered" it yet , i fitted front and rear sway bars , on medium rods , the radshape ally body panels , a trinity 14 x 2 motor and a tbone racing chassis brace /front bash plate and a 4200 turnigy shorty .. also it got tamiyaized and a willy head , few more upgrades to come but here it is for now , thanks for your input in advance

[MadMax 23]

Nice looking ride and some good options you've done aswell These things are a Blast on the beach BUT still tend to **** a wheel up LOL and i LOVE it

[biggamehunter 127]

thanks greatly for your input madmax

[IBIFTKH 1369]

It is a neat looking rig. Your Radshape body panels look better than the originals and Willy looks right at home too. One of these may be on my shopping list next year so it's interesting to hear other people's experiences. I'm looking forward to seeing how you and Mr Crispy get on with these.

cheers,

Rob

[biggamehunter 127]

It is a neat looking rig. Your Radshape body panels look better than the originals and Willy looks right at home too. One of these may be on my shopping list next year so it's interesting to hear other people's experiences. I'm looking forward to seeing how you and Mr Crispy get on with these.

cheers,

Rob

i did a fair bit of work on the body panels before fitting them IBIFTKH , im also looking forward to seeing how we get on ?? big thanks for your input

[mr crispy 2293]

That looks great biggamehunter. Did the alum panels not fit well when you got them? I'm thinking to do something similar once mine start picking up damage. Are you running the 4200 shorty in the original battery location in the back, and it's stable? I might have to try this before I start swapping out the front end.

[biggamehunter 127]

That looks great biggamehunter. Did the alum panels not fit well when you got them? I'm thinking to do something similar once mine start picking up damage. Are you running the 4200 shorty in the original battery location in the back, and it's stable? I might have to try this before I start swapping out the front end.

the panels were a fair fit but some of the mounting holes didnt quite line up , the finish on them was straight out of the machine shop , covered in adhesive protective wrap and soap from the linishers etc , they needed a real good final finish , polish and tidy up on the edges , i am running the turnigy 4200 2s shorty in the original tray , unmodified , but running in parallel with the chassis and not across the axle , i have stiffned the rear end up considerably with a rear sway bar on medium rod , heavy shock oil instead of the water that was in them , and slid the spring clamps about half way down the shock bodies , this combo works very well on initial tests and almost completely eliminates the heavy rear end sway that was causing it to roll straight out of the box , the front end has been tweaked with heavier oil and a sway bar on medium setting also the rebound on the front shocks has been set up properly which also adds to the anti roll set up i now have , i also beefed up the motor a fair bit with the 14 double trinity , which revs much higher than the standard motor it came with so this mod alone would have increased its tendancy to roll , i may have to switch the rear sway to the heavy rod when i realy get it going , but didnt want to use the heavy rod for fear of reducing travel on the rer axle for crawling , hope this helps mate , i found a great battery conversion tray for sale but i think a big hardcase lipo in original location will be far too much for the rear end to handle , the 4200 shorty weighs nothing mate its the lightest battery i have ever felt of 4200 !, i also think the ally panels bolted to the cage are acting like strut braces to help calm the twist in the chassis and the front tbone chassis brace both add to the stiffing and greatly aid the anti roll set up i have now

i must say these hammers are wild !! almost uncontrollable they realy rip it up ! and need very fine tuning on the handling woooow they are nutz !!!!! lol

cheers shaun

[Percymon 2184]

Looks great Shaun - now you need to hammer it

[biggamehunter 127]

i do make a good few of my parts myself from aircraft alloy , so i got a few improvements going on for the hammers , heres a few parts i have made for my rc10 teamc hybrid buggy

battery strap & heat sink

front shock towers/front end stiffner

rear tower

so theres drawings going on now for the main chassis parts for the hammers , rear links front shock mounts front cradles etc etc

[mr crispy 2293]

Great advice mate thanks. Your not thinking to make a front shock plate by any change are you? Replace the horizontal shocks with an alum tower and fit proper longer shocks? I'm thinking to go in that direction and try mounting the shorty battery between them under the bonnet.

[biggamehunter 127]

it handles very well now mate , so i dont want to go with the upright shock option , but i am going to make a front conversion plate set and a copy of the original laydown shock plate to fit and stiffen furthermore , imho it doesnt need the front end drasticly changing with upright shocks , just stiffening, tuning and setting properly

[Tamiya1/10 382]

You have put all the stuff that i want to do to Thor's side kick and more. Didn't notice if you added the front diff. lock. In one of the hammer forum or linked to, there is a seller, i think , in Canada that provides interior, a larger front hinged tube frame for relocating the battery up front, a revised rear tube frame and a articulating piece that seats on top of the rear diff for even more chasis twisting.

Love seeing rc with clean tires. Is like wearing a spitting polished pair of fine leather shoes. In my books presentation is just as important as function. That's the praised part.....

The big Willey's head is “nice”, but is like putting a happy face decal on Thor's forehead, kind of water down its presence. But if Willey is your man than make a small pair of pink dice and afix it to inside rear mirror location.

Odin has spoken:-D

[MadMax 23]

Willies head may look bigger but it's a heck of a lot better than the og one imo.

[mr crispy 2293]

+1 to that!

[biggamehunter 127]

got a bit more done to the hammers , where to start realy , i got the alloy beadlocks on now and the axle extenders its a lot more planted and stable at speed in fast turns now and there seems to be more lift on the axle with it wider , the 500k diff oil in the fron makes the diff act like a semi locker , if you turn one front wheel slowly the diff acts like its locked , snatch turn it fast then it runs like an open diff its between locked and not locked , fully locked was causing instabillity in fast turns and turning over , fully unlocked seriously affected its crawling ability so the 500k silicone is the answer ! best of both worlds , i cant decide about getting the gmade xd piggyback shocks for it front and rear ,

i fitted a set of proline flat iron tyres today with memory foams to the new alloy beadlocks , massive difference ! they are super squidgy , and sticky , compared to the original race claws , the race claws felt like they were made from solid rubber!! stripped the anodizing from the axle lenghtheners and polished them back to shiney silver, waiting now for the hot racing parts , and i went for the gmade piggybacks , ordered 75 mm for the front , as i wanted to keep the laydown shock design from as i see it fitting upright shocks eliminates one problem but creates another ? im reading multiple posts of the front cv drives popping from the dogbone end on the diff cups as the front suspention bottoms out to far and people having to limit travel on their shocks to counteract it sooooooooo what i have decided is
the original shocks are 65mm and mount onto upstands 10mm foreward of the shock plate rear bolts , so 75mm xd gmade piggybacks will mount with the shock mounts provided with the carbon hot racing shockplate , but not in the original position, they will mount exactly to the rear plate boltholes !!! the drop out on the front arms can then be adjusted to stop the cvd popping out with the original turnbuckles from lower arms to the shock bellcranks but the 75mm shocks give 10mm more travel on the upstroke than standard shocks , i think this is a better option than uprights for me , and i had 103mm for the rears , im in process of making a axle truss for mounting the rear top links above the rear diff case ( like the gcm) type mount cant wait to get the hot racing parts and the mib x drive all steel rear prop shaft now but being in uk i think it will be a while , i will update all pics soon but it looks very much the same as the first set for now so didnt want to bore you guys

[biggamehunter 127]

made my own version of the axle truss for the rear axle

beefed up the front with ally rod ends and titan rods

how it stands now

got the xd piggys on the rear after that

[biggamehunter 127]

fitted some hr shock towers , rear lower and upper links

front carbon chassis brace and hr rockers

and MIP x drive steel propshafts

did a front xd piggy 75mm shock conversion

put all the robinson racing and hr steel gears in and i think its just about finished now tyres are awesome grippy ( see pic below), i am going to fab a aluminium battery tray and as soon as i get my welding gear back from my brother next week im starting an exact copy of the full cage but in steel , heres it as it stands now , im very pleased so far ,

changed out the rear hr shock mounts and fitted a new alloy battery tray with incorperated rear shock mounts so i can get the shorty battery right up inside the cab now giving far better weight distribution and almost centralizing the weight between the wheels ,it will also take full size hardcase batteries now but im only using shorty pacs, the option is there if i want though also the rear shocks bottom out on their rubber bump stops without the axle truss hitting the underside of the battery tray now , much much better

so i tried out the th as it was and discovered the spare wheel overhanging the tail by such a large ammount seriously hampered the front wheel traction on steep slopes/inclines and at speed was making the rear of the truck act like a pendulum ? it was only there purely for asthecic purposes and i must say i was fond of the way it looked , bit it was such a big hindrence to balance and performance it had to go ! so i went ahead and did the bobtail !

[biggamehunter 127]

got the hammers ou today in my fav spot ! incredible !!! its just unstoppable , glad i removed the spare wheel or would never have got it to the places i did !!

and my spot

then fitted front and rear kong tow shackles

fitted hr caster blocks and c hubs to the front

made an ally diff cover

did the semi locker rear diff conversion today , holes were tough to hit , as everything has to be dead sraight and level or the pins through the axle ends wont sit straight when the side gears go on , and the diff wont work at all , also had to face off the humps on the side gears and trim the axle ends to prevent the internal cross axles fouling on them i must say filled with 500k oil its incredible !!! now the truck realy comes alive i will never go back to a locker , but just by removing the internal gears and pins the locker simply fits back in , as per front diff this semi locker conversion is the answer !!! here you go guys
the parts

next is a custom stainless steel tube chassis for it , hope you enjoyed so far , its now running on a team orion worlds edition 12x2

[Tamiya1/10 382]

That is amazing what you did with your hammer. Those metal parts and shocks reconfiguration are just so right. The wind shield was very considerate of you. You don't want willy eating dirt. I would put back that spare tire....I like spare tire.:-D:-D

[IBIFTKH 1369]

Wow, looks like you've got some heavy duty upgrades on there. The home-made axle truss looks very impressive. It's a shame to lose the spare wheel though, perhaps put a spare foam inside the cover and keep the look without the weight?

[biggamehunter 127]

thanks greatly for your input guys , i have fitted the spare back on a simple snap pin to the roof and hinge on the rear , also put a set of proline hammers and proline alloy beadlock rings on there , and got a good start on the stainless tube cage

[Tamiya1/10 382]

I looked at you topic title and see what you have done so far. I realized you have been hammering in the morning, afternoon and evening. Your neighbor must be complainting about the noise.

Your works are very functional and not just for the looks.

[biggamehunter 127]

I looked at you topic title and see what you have done so far. I realized you have been hammering in the morning, afternoon and evening. Your neighbor must be complainting about the noise.

Your works are very functional and not just for the looks.

thanks greatly im glad you noticed the function and not the bling !!!! lol

[biggamehunter 127]

hammer is finished with every conceivable mod you can buy and a huge amount you cant , not a lot of interest here so i will just share the pics , cheers

thanks for looking , if you know of anything you cant see fitted or think it need please comment , cheers

[MadMax 23]

Some very sweet and trick parts you got going there and looks a nice play area aswell LOL.