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richb77

FINALLY! Got myself a M38...But not as complete as i wanted.

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Hi All.

After much searching and what seems never ending encounters with bidding bots on fleabay i have a Wild Willy M38.

I didnt pay much in the end as its a little rougher than i had hoped to get.

The chassis is good but the body is a little worse for wear.

The grille is smashed as is the "passenger" side corner and wheel guard.

So. Quick question.

Is it worth trying to patch it up (Styrene welded in and shaped) or a new shell.

I imagine i could be paying as much for a replacement shell as i did for this whole model. so whats the difference between a WW and WW2 body?

I admit the thought of a WW2 body on M38 isnt thrilling me. But a broken body doesnt appeal much either :)

Your thoughts and advice are welcome.

Cheers

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The main body differences between the M38 and WW2 are, unfortunately, the main body and the grille. The WW2 shell has two body post holes at the front, the M38 has one central hole. The grilles are completely different. Genuine replacements for either part are rare and can be expensive. Sorry for being the bearer of bad news!

But... there have been several aftermarket replacements for the grille, including metal ones, which turn up from time to time. Or if you fancy a challenge you could use your broken original as a template to make a new one from styrene.

The body is nice to work on, styrene bonds in well so repair work is feasible and strong once set.

Hope this helps,

Rob

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Cheers for the clarification.

I had noticed the vertical grille had been replaced with horizontal which i was keen to avoid.

I will keep my eyes peeled for a shell but in the mean time will begin a rebuild and maybe hand make a replacement "original" grille.

I will have access to a 3D printer (FDM) soon so i may give it a whirl. Although it will be ABS and not Styrene....

;)

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Rob (IBIFTKH) has several build threads on here - I know he's made at least one grille from styrene card (police Willy project from recollection). Styrene is easy to work with, and bonds really well with the solvent 'glues' - once you have a few practice runs its surprising how easy it is to fabricate sections. I replaced the floor area in a WW2 shell quite easily.

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Buy a WW2 shell for £16 off ebay, cut off the corner/wheel guard and bond them onto your M38 shell then resell the WW2 for a few quid or keep it in your spares box.

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If you want the vertical grill, this may work...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EXWWFK-Street-Jam-Grill-Kit-for-Tamiya-WR-02-Wild-Willy-2-/370905658089?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item565bb332e9

I bought it for my Wild Willy 2 which it fits perfectly so you could always get a WW2 body, bolt on this grill and fill in the un-wanted body mount holes.

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All good thought chaps.

One other issue i have noted is the tyres are cracked (pretty badly).

I know new or N.O.S are like rocking horse doodoo. Has anyone managed to find a replacement tyre/wheel combo thats not too offensive?

Or is there any way i can repair my cracked tyres?

Cheers again chaps!

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Does the M38 use the Padlatrak tires all around, like those on the rear of the Sand Scorcher and Grasshopper? If you do not care for the vintage of the parts, those tires have been made widely-available now with the re-releases of both buggies. And if the wheels are fine but the tires are glued on: there are many ways to unglue tires, such as using boiling water for removal. That would save the original wheels; otherwise the re-released Subaru Brat wheels look to be the next best thing.

Repairs-wise, I can only think of CA cement or super glue, but if the cracks are too numerous it would not be worth the effort.

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... Never mind, then!

It only piques my curiosity about the M38 and Blazing Blazer, though.

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It's a common misconception that the padla tracks from the scorcher and WW1 are the same. People have used various 1.9 tires on Hilux rims. The WW1 and blazing blazer wheels are wider so I would imagine the widest RC4WD tire could work.

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