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StuartUK

Help me Build a TT-01 Please! (Noob)

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cheers :)
Club stuff will come 2nd, tarmac will be 1st (I guess for me building the thing will be the main fun part!)

As it is, I learn from the questions I post and answers given, just been reading into the B6 Imax charger, with + & - reviews, etc...
Trying to understand/figure out if I have a 3300mah lipo battery, does that mean there is a setting on the charger unit for 3.3amp charge thing ? (which in theory would take 40 mins to charge?)
Ideally, want a charger unit I plug the battery in, press charge, it does its thing, and then goes to trickle or off (I remember that from Nimh batteries :D )

One other thing, and this stems from reading all about the Lipo vs NimH stuff........... if both batteries were 3300maH, then both have the same run time, but the Lipo battery will give the car a bit more punch on acceleration due to 0.2v extra ?? so handy for fast starts, fast out of cornering, etc on the Lipo setup ???

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Yo set the charging amps on the imax charger - so you can charge at 1C (3.3Amps) or at lower amps for longer charge time. Some batteries allow you to charge above 1C rating ( ie charge amps higher than battery amps for faster charge times)

Turnigy Accucel 6 charger is the same unit btw

I understand the desire to 'run for fun' first, but IMO its better to spend £40 extra now for compliant electrics than spend another £70 for a second set in 2 months time.

Lipo is 0.2V higher, and much better discharge capability. Also the voltage drop during run time is more gradual so performance is similar for the first 20 minutes and then drops off for the last 2-3 minutes, rather than a steady drop of in performance from a NiMH pack.

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Keep it coming guys.

Am reading this thread with interest as it covers general things I'm also confused about atm ...still just a newbie myself. :)

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As much as the Lipo is gonna take some Brain Power for me, I think I understand how it works as long as i read stuff....

Here are the definates that i will be buying:

IMAX B6 charger (£32)

Turnigy 4000mah 2S Lipo battery for £23

Lipo Bag - £4

TT-02 Kit which includes the TEU-105BK ESC = £113 (I assume that ESC will work with LIPO/NimH ??)

Tamiya SuperStock RZ Motor (23T) = £24 (star Aviva HongKong) (or if i have to stick with 25T, then the Tamiya GT-Tuned motor)

Hop-up Spur Set / Prop Shaft / Prop Joints & Ball Bearing Set (16) = under £35

Turnigy GTX3 - Controller and Receiver = £40

I had high lighted the "Ansmann Racing EX-High Speed Servo AR-700BB" which is £20, but unsure if i need that?
Can you recommend a servo which is under £20 that will fit with my setup ?

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Does your B6 come with an AC adapter, or is it the B6AC variant with built in power supply? The standard B6s require a ~12V, ~8-10A AC adapter to cover all of their uses. Also, the B6 does not come with a charging lead for the pack, so you'll need something with banana plugs on one end and a mating Dean's or similar connector on the other end. Check out Hobby King's "Plug King" for the ultimate charging lead. The balance lead of the battery will plug directly into the B6, so no need for a balance board there.

With respect to the LiPo, don't skimp on the "C" rating -- go for at least 40C or 45C continuous discharge as you'll likely want to use the same battery with higher power electronics at a later time. The incremental cost going from 30C to 40C or even 50C is just $10-$20. I almost always shoot for the highest available "C" rating in a given pack capacity to have plenty of margin, unless there are some size/weight objectives I'm after.

The bag is an ok idea, but several people here have been using surplus ammo containers or other metal boxes for safe charging and storage.

The TT02 kit's TEU-105BK ESC won't have an acceptable low voltage cutoff for the LiPo; its cutoff threshold is only good for LiFe packs. You'll want to source a low voltage cutoff device to put in between the battery and the ESC, or at a minimum source a low voltage alarm that monitors each cell in the pack using the balance lead.

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Lipo Chargerhttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330897310942?var=540181127012&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Shows adaptor and plug....

LiFe.................. Thought that was the same as Lipo ?!!
Understood about the ESC...
Guess I could sell the TEU-105BK and buy one of the Modelsport ones mentioned already, or an Etronix one I have seen.....

See, its all confusing this lipo stuff!! :D :D :D
Just reading about LiFE now (6.6v) @ 4200mah power packs.....

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forget the LiFE packs for now mate . Stick with lipo . The LiFE packs haven't really caught on other then in Japan . That charger is sound as a pound - exactly the same as mine in fact . It will serve you well for starters . You should easily be able to sell the TEU-105BK either on here or via ebay . Its worth about £20 - £25 plus P&P .

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Morning all,

The Imax B6 charger for Lipo....
Does this have the option pre-set for half charging batteries ?
Am re-reading the battery advice from speedy_beans about storing lipo batteries, and states to store at half charge....

Just wondering if the charger unit has the option to charge to 50% ?
Also, if a battery is 50% charged, and then I want to use the car, is it a case of charging the battery to 100% which would take around 25 min's ?

cheers

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No half charge option on the B6 Imax Stuart . In use I haven't had a problem with my lipos though . I give them a full charge before storage ( in a old ammo box or similar ) then top them up before a run . Honestly its not a issue IMO .

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how long does a charge normally take anyway ?

on a 5000 2s around a hour - 1 1/2 hour at the most .

EDIT - should have said that's at 1C charge rate

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Charge trime depands on the charge rate and the state of depletion of the pack to start with

A 5000mAh pack charging at 5A (1C rate) in theory takes an hour, but will be less because its never fully discharged.

Same pack at 2.5A (0.5C) will take twice as long.

Some packs allow 2C charge rate (ie charging at 10A on a 5000mAh battery) - not recommended and a lot of the less costly chargers won't give beyond 6A charging anyway.

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cheers :) :)
ok... Servo's
I see lots of servo's all saying they do the same thing, etc...
I'll be using a 23T or 25T motor...
So I assumed I would need something like this:

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/ansmann-racing-ex-high-speed-servo-ar-700bb-7.2kg-/rc-car-products/372661

Or could I get away with just using a standard carson servo ?? I don't understand the difference, etc

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Regarding storage charging of LiPo's, charge a 2s to about 3.7v - 3.9v per cell, that's fine if you're not going to use the battery for a while.

I wouldn't risk storing a fully charged LiPo.

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As far as your servo goes, you could get one of these for similar money to the one you linked to:

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/alturn-usa-high-performance-race-servo-high-speed-/rc-car-products/359785

The metal gears will last longer and survive crashes better.

Or you could use a standard bargain servo and just replace the gears if they strip. Only top drivers notice the speed difference, and the car doesn't need a particularly strong or fast servo for normal driving, as it is not particularly heavy.

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cheers for the advice, I only picked that servo in the 1st place as it sounded fancy!! :D :D :D
As said, its all new to me, just wanting to build a good setup without going crazy money wise!

I did read about a Futaba S3004 for £15

But unsure if that will like being bashed against the walls on track ?! :) :)

Happy to go with the Alturn, as it says its digital, so I assume that's a good thing!

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Me Again! :) :)
I'm ordering these parts:

Tamiya 54500 - (High Speed Gear Set 68T)
Tamiya 54501 - (Prop Shaft)
Tamiya 54502 - (Prop Joint)

As for the 68T Gear set, would a standard pinion be just fine, or could I use a pinion from the TT-01 setup ??
I can see these parts:

Tamiya 50356 - (20T,21T AV Pinion Gear) - looks metal, so I assume it is! :D :D
Tamiya 50357 - (22T,23T AV Pinion Gear) - same as above

As you can guess with me, I have no idea what i'm talking about, but after reading many posts on here, the pinion as I understand it will wear away, so best to buy a metal one which lasts ? Where I get confused is, the numbers on the pinion, so would I get a 20T/21T or a 22T/23T ??

My aim for the car is max speed, not so fussed on acceleration....


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Stuart - WHATEVER you do DO NOT buy a Tamiya pinion . They are butter soft and will wear out in no time at all . I'm no expert but you need a decent replacement . Someone will know the part number you need from the likes of Robinson Racing ect . Hold off till one of the guys lets you know what to order .

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