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Quarterwave

Need Some Help With Wild One Build

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Hi all,

I'm returning to a fun hobby and are in the middle of building a re-issue Wild One and have a couple of questions that I hope someone out there can help me with:

1) I have some aftermarket wheels that have a large, six-sided hub pattern, so I ordered some wheel adapters based on some information provided on another forum. While the adapters for the rear worked great, the front are not correct.

The problem is that the front axles are just spindles and do not have an option for the small metal tube that runs through the rear axle - which the adapters use to lock onto the axle. Is it supposed to be like that for the front wheels? Or am I just supposed to bolt up the rims to the existing spindles?

2) What is the best method to trim the edges from the front bumper? As it looks like my aftermarket wheels are going to rub....

3) I have a ESC and 10T 3500 brushless engine ( I think it was the "EZ-RUN" set). Is a 3S lipo a good match for that ESC/engine combination?

4) Is there any way to not use the 4xAA battery pack (which I believe powers the receiver) and still have it function correctly?

5) There is a small switch in the ESC that is connected by a thin wire - what is that for? Is there a way to override that and have it run on the receiver power?

Any help would be much appreciated and I'll be sure to post pics of the build when it's done (att. is a mock up so far)!

Thanks in advance!

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1) Sounds like you have 4wd drive wheels which have a hex fitting. The easiest way I've found to accomodate this is to use axles from another kit with a hub containing bearings this way the wheel clamps on the the axle and the axle rotates in the hub rather than the wheel rotating around the axle. I can't remember off the top of my head which kit the hubs and axles came from that I used on my Blitzer - somebody is bound to be able to point to some though...

2) Remove the front bumper entirely? You can also get smaller alloy bumpers off ebay.

3) The only thing you'll need to keep an eye on is the gearbox - the WO box isn't the best designed and needs all it's parts in place and tight otherwise it tends to bulge at the sides and cause problems. You might also find you get some motor heating problems as the gearing is not really designed for wheels that big, and there are only 2 pinion options for the Wild One.

4) Most modern receivers have a BEC (battery elimination circuit) which means they can take power from the main battery (via the ESC) instead of the separate AAs. It should say on the receiver if it has a BEC.

5) Sounds like the on/off switch that cuts the power. You probably want to keep it if you use a receiver with a BEC...

Don't wait till it's finished - get more pics up now so we can see your progress! :) It certainly looks like it's going to be at the Wilder end of the spectrum...

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Judging by the picture you have superseded the title Wild One and gone straight to Insane One :)

Epic build

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Thanks for the info and encouragement guys. I'm in the middle of painting the body work now—metallic red—then I need to start painting the driver, but need to order some more brushable paint for him.

I've also re-worked the placement of the receiver and ESC, so that'll take some more finessing to get everything neatly tucked away....

In the meantime, here's some more pics - pre-radio gear.

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One more thing - what is the best LIPO battery to go with this set up? I'm more concerned about it fitting into the battery compartment.

Thanks!

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I can't tell you what the bet LiPo pack is for the WO, but I can tell you that the Turnigy 4000mAh 2S 30C hardcase pack that I got from hobbyking fits in the Wild One a treat...

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The gearbox can be fragile on the WO so go for a 7.4v 2S lipo and use the smallest of the pinions even so from expierience you may need to revert back to the original wheels and tyres to have the most fun of this car, the diameter of those wheels will over heat the motor and may even damage the speedo. if you use the orignal size wheels with the 10T motor it will be ballistic!

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Nice concept, but over modifying a project can be costly at best. & the outcome could lead you to buying more spares to keep your rig running..been there before.. too much load friction on the drive train, use the standed wild one wheels the chassis was designed for. sorry just my 5 cents :)

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Thanks for the tips everyone! FWEIW, I bought this car for some fun and to act as a stress reliever—so if I blow a motor or gearbox, I'll just grab the parts that I need and repair.

It's all painted up now, so I'll post pics as soon as I get a chance to take them!

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