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Posted

NICE! I got mine built up also! need to talk to Brett to find out how to keep the batteries from falling out in mine.. I'll post pics in my thread in the MT section!

Do you have the behind the axle steering setup?

Posted

NICE! I got mine built up also! need to talk to Brett to find out how to keep the batteries from falling out in mine.. I'll post pics in my thread in the MT section!

Do you have the behind the axle steering setup?

Hi I do have the behind the axle steering kit... but I do not like it I would go with the regular steering kit ...there are better ones out there than cpe I don't like his stuff he uses thin metal to hold the servos and it flexes where as other places use thick solid hard aluminum and it don't give or flex at all.

I put my tray in upside down to lower everything I can put the battery under the tray as in the photo and also throw the bottom slot... with the bottom sideways slot position I seen guys use 2 Velcro straps and they go around the pipes and around the battery and hold it in place that way.

To get more steering you have to use wheel wideners I got some esp ones they worked great without them no steering at all...and also with them I wanted more steering so I then needed to grind the steering units so they don't hit the axle C carrier part so you gain more steering throw.

Posted

Thanks Guy's I learned a lot with this build you need to do a lot more moding than just buying a kit and think it will all go together and work perfectly.

Posted

I get full throw of steering with out widener's.. I bought Level3 RC upper link mounts, and they came with some spacers I didn't end up using up top.. I used them and a couple washers to space the lower links inwards and BAM full steering W/O a widener..

I have yet to modify my hubs (cutting the nubs) but IDK if I need it.. yet..

Posted

I get full throw of steering with out widener's.. I bought Level3 RC upper link mounts, and they came with some spacers I didn't end up using up top.. I used them and a couple washers to space the lower links inwards and BAM full steering W/O a widener..

I have yet to modify my hubs (cutting the nubs) but IDK if I need it.. yet..

Yep what I thought also until I drove it then I had to get the wideners and after driving it when it looked like it had way more steering yet again I needed to grind some plastic off the steering hubs to get the steering I needed.... I still might get the steering kit for the rear down the road as that will make it steer much more.

Posted

I also grinded the steering hubs on mine. I have the wideners, but even with those the steering was ridiculous. I only have the front wheels turning, as I think the rear ones turning will make it more than a handfull to race.

Howcome your servo is mounted vertical? Does it make any difference.

Do you drive it on 14,4v?

You can see my Clod here.

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=120521&sid=32970

Posted

Thanks Guy's I learned a lot with this build you need to do a lot more moding than just buying a kit and think it will all go together and work perfectly.

Gutted. I am already going to have to see if I still have my allen keys that came with my SC10 or hunt some down imperial/sae ones locally, either that or try switch all the hardware to metric.

I have just fitted my 15t pinions, adjustable mounts and the wideners to my axles ready for the chassis :) Not sure what else or if I am forgetting anything...

Posted

Hi Nice clod!

If you look here CPE shows photos of the servo installed different ways I put it the way I did because in the photos CPE has you will see the steering rod from the servo saver to the steering rack is more straight across and not on a angle as much so this way it should work better.

http://www.crawfordperformanceengineering.com/product_info.php?cPath=9_29&products_id=15

I also grinded the steering hubs on mine. I have the wideners, but even with those the steering was ridiculous. I only have the front wheels turning, as I think the rear ones turning will make it more than a handfull to race.

Howcome your servo is mounted vertical? Does it make any difference.

Do you drive it on 14,4v?

You can see my Clod here.

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=120521&sid=32970

Posted

Guess you have a point there, maybe I should try this. As it is now, it is quite tight with the endbell on the motor. It does clear though, but only since I changed the Ofna servosaver to a Kimbrough, that is slightly smaller.

Posted
Well I tested my CPE build in this video only for a few min not beating on it or nothing..do you see me beating on it in this video? and the CPE rear steering lock out system caused my steering hub to break.. Why well first of all I don't know who thinks of these things but it is made in such a way that when either wheel gets tapped with force the unit then sends the shock into the steering arm by twisting it causing it to snap because there is only one side one rod on the left locking it out... so what happens if you push a wheel in or outwards on the rod ends it makes the bolt going through get twisted to the ball joints limits and then twists the steering arm where it's bolted on causing it to snap off!!
easy fix how these kits should be Is (SEE PHOTO) in the red that should be another rod end fixed like the one on the left this way when a wheel gets forced by a bump or hit the rod ends won't be able to make the end links on the plastic steering arm twist from force of the tires getting hit.... simple thing If it was like this I guarantee my steering arm would not have snapped!
CPE com on man you can do better than that! :(
Posted
Well I tested my CPE build in this video only for a few min not beating on it or nothing..do you see me beating on it in this video? and the CPE rear steering lock out system caused my steering hub to break.. Why well first of all I don't know who thinks of these things but it is made in such a way that when either wheel gets tapped with force the unit then sends the shock into the steering arm by twisting it causing it to snap because there is only one side one rod on the left locking it out... so what happens if you push a wheel in or outwards on the rod ends it makes the bolt going through get twisted to the ball joints limits and then twists the steering arm where it's bolted on causing it to snap off!!
easy fix how these kits should be Is (SEE PHOTO) in the red that should be another rod end fixed like the one on the left this way when a wheel gets forced by a bump or hit the rod ends won't be able to make the end links on the plastic steering arm twist from force of the tires getting hit.... simple thing If it was like this I guarantee my steering arm would not have snapped!
CPE com on man you can do better than that! :(

IMG_0041_zpsad3ee029.jpg

The wheel wideners also cause a knock on the wheel to have more leverage on the hub than a standard set up would have. Perhaps a dual servo setup with a very low throw on the rear axle servo would be the way to go rather than 2ws and the wideners ?

This might be a bit of food for thought:

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=57241

It was a clod I built several years, then sold onto another member on the forum. It had very capable steering and was extremely tough...

Posted

Yep the steering lockout you have is worthless. I used these.and it is really a simple and excellent pair of pieces.

http://www.crawfordperformanceengineering.com/product_info.php?products_id=589

Thanks will think about those... wondering if I do steering in the rear also with the servo saver might protect things well.

Also looking to sell my brand new wheels and rumble tires they are fully balanced and glued on with shoe goo so you can remove the tires if needed... These are for racing I am wanting something more like stock clod tires.

Posted

That rear steering lock out he sells is out of stock, has been for some time - I woulda got those instead of the current one Shenlonco and I have...

Posted

I guess I'm lucky, I have a unknown rear steer lockout that was fitted to my Bullhead when I bought it many moons ago, I took it off and chucked it in the box when I restored my Bully. Now its fitted to my axles ready for this chassis, think I will leave it on if you guys arent happy with your current ones. :blink:

20131215_115328_zpsjd4jlqif.jpg

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