Egress - What motor?

[Tamiya Era 778]

did you run inside or outside (what is the current temp in Oman )

I ran it inside. Temp . is great now around 24C...summer is far awsy niw ( Thanks God ).

Loool

[WillyChang 1814]

Ok I went down to 18T Pinion and after 15 mins, the motor gots too hot!!

Note: I drove on a very short/small track with many brakes and reverse command.

So does this affect the heat of the motor?

Avante/Egress have motor in bad location for airflow cooling.

Most racers would cut holes or flaps into the left side of bodyshell to get air in.

Maybe someone should design an extended motor plate with fins poking out the side

and fan forced cooling over the endbell.

Also BiTD racing would go for only 5-6mins, 8mins max in few places.

Cell technology was up to about 1800-2000mAh so there wasn't as much energy to burn either.

Wasn't ever my choice of chassis for Enduro running as battery takes so long to access.

[Tamiya Era 778]

All I can guess is the 22T pinion might be intended for use with a regular Mabuchi RS-540 motor ("silvercan") or with a 25 Turns GT Tuned motor.

true, but it is officially the BZ is the one for Egress as per the manual photos and official adv.

The best pinion gear for BZ/TZ are: 14T - 16T. has more control on Motor ( in terms of heat ) although you will loose top speed, but will gain more accelerator. ..and these will be ideal for small/short areas where no full throttle can achieve..

Today i am going to make some tests with TZ motor and pinion mentioned and will post the feed-back.

thanks

[Tamiya Era 778]

I still didn't take out the 18T pinion and the temperature are great now. I changed the position of tje motor making the vent. Holes to face outward after one side was covered by the chassis.

The motor is not getting too hot. Normal heat generates which is normal..:-).

:-)

[94eg! 834]

Are you sure something isn't binding in the drivetrain? Did you set the mesh correctly? I have a really hard time getting the mesh perfect on my Vanquish. It's simply NOT possible to do with the gearbox cover removed because the center diff/torque-splitter is held in place BY THE GEAR COVER. I simply adjust the motor position when I'm actually running the car. If the drivetrain is noisy I will loosen the two motor mount screws and make tiny adjustments. Then give it another short road test to see if things quiet down. Takes a few attempts before I'm satisfied.

It's kinda nice you can adjust the motor position on these cars with a long phillips (+) driver while the car is fully assembled.

[WillyChang 1814]

I like hex heads on the motor plate

Gotta be careful with 3rd party pinions, some can be thicker than others.

If you're not careful with the depth of pinion vs motor plate you could be

butting it against the plastic gearbox side once fully tightened.

[Tamiya Era 778]

Are you sure something isn't binding in the drivetrain? Did you set the mesh correctly? I have a really hard time getting the mesh perfect on my Vanquish. It's simply NOT possible to do with the gearbox cover removed because the center diff/torque-splitter is held in place BY THE GEAR COVER. I simply adjust the motor position when I'm actually running the car. If the drivetrain is noisy I will loosen the two motor mount screws and make tiny adjustments. Then give it another short road test to see if things quiet down. Takes a few attempts before I'm satisfied.

It's kinda nice you can adjust the motor position on these cars with a long phillips (+) driver while the car is fully assembled.

Yup..my mesh setting is ok and no issue with that...looks like it was a technical issue ( small/short track ).

Will keep testing and pit feedback, but feels much better now!

[z00ter 392]

So this was a hard question for me, as I was thinking to go in to the realms of brushless O_O

but meh, I have too meny decent brushed motors, I think I will be putting my Acto Power TRF special along with a volac ... was thinking MS special 10T but I think the TRF will do better

[Tamiya Era 778]

Welcome Back Karim!

[94eg! 834]

So this was a hard question for me, as I was thinking to go in to the realms of brushless O_O

but meh, I have too meny decent brushed motors, I think I will be putting my Acto Power TRF special along with a volac ... was thinking MS special 10T but I think the TRF will do better

If it's a runner then that is a silly proposition. The expense would be extremely high, and those motors would only last a few runs before needing rebuild (cut comms & re-brush). If you want serious power, for which this chassis is not capable of handling, then brushless is the only way to go.

[ralphee 293]

So this was a hard question for me, as I was thinking to go in to the realms of brushless O_O

but meh, I have too meny decent brushed motors, I think I will be putting my Acto Power TRF special along with a volac ... was thinking MS special 10T but I think the TRF will do better

Its not silly at all, brushed motors are still loved the world over, and part of the fun was a tear down and skim, then watch that power spike on your next run. They drive better too for me, i still prefer the feel of a hand wound brushed motor. Gonna stick a brushless in my TRF 511, and try convert myself again but if its a nostalgic chassis, put a nostalgic set up in there.

lee

[94eg! 834]

Yeah, but a setup like those is looking at rebuilds every 4-6 runs. z00ter, do you have a comm lathe?

[z00ter 392]

indeed I have a lathe etc, all be it im not the greatest with it!..., but I have spers etc for the motor, iwill be changing motors regularly until I have found something I like,...

as for brushless and lipos and the likes, I have no clue what im doing so have never gone down that route, I would need someone to say get that, that and that and your sorted.

I have learnt that a black mamba esc would be decent enough for most motors, but I know nothing else, as you know I would want as fast as possible, but again my lack on knowledge lets me down and send me back to brushed motors

anyone else having issues posting pics ? or links? cant get the OK button to work