JeepnMike 150 Posted January 11, 2014 Fair enough. I was just thinking the added weight. It must be light (I guess it is TRF). The pros outweigh the cons. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedy_w_beans 4272 Posted January 11, 2014 Yeah, when the whole truck weighs about 4 kg / 9 lbs, I doubt 20-30 grams will make much difference... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JeepnMike 150 Posted January 11, 2014 If the receiver won't hold, what do you do with the ESC? I am still thinking of doing one of these cars, I am just curious. Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedy_w_beans 4272 Posted January 11, 2014 The ESC I'm using actually has a mounting plate that comes with it. Two screws hold the ESC to the plate, and then the plate can be bolted to the chassis. The mounting surface of the ESC is actually fairly large, so I was going to start with some Novak/Parma clear servo tape (I think it might be 3M VHB) after prepping the chassis and ESC with rubbing alcohol. If it doesn't hold, then I'll drill two more holes and bolt it down with the plate. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedy_w_beans 4272 Posted January 11, 2014 I worked on the body today, and I'm super pleased with the outcome... Awhile ago I had bought some Tamiya 2002 Impreza WRC decals from a discount/closeout sale, and I've been saving them for just the right time. The body came with window masks, but I also masked the rear deck, roof, and hood / bonnet. The main color is Pactra Cobalt Blue, backed in Pactra Backing Black, and then the top panels are painted in Pactra Outlaw Black. Tamiya Smoke is used for window tinting. It took a few hours to paint all the coats working with a hair dryer for faster cure times, and it took another few hours to cut and apply the decals. Overall I'm really happy with it. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zac_F83 117 Posted January 12, 2014 Out of curiosity, why use a radio box at all? Why not just use double sided tape like we all do with our 1/10 scale stuff?tre EDIT- Treed by Speedy! hahaa I use Traxxas waterproof RX boxes they're cheap (around $9.99USD) and truely water proof I don't have one in my TRF201 or TA05 due to they won't fit.. the Ta05 is an on road only car so not to worried about it - the TRF201 though I need to figure out something for to protect the RX Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted January 12, 2014 the TRF201 though I need to figure out something for to protect the RX a balloon and a cable tie is the cheapest option Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yello 6 Posted January 13, 2014 Ahh... The modern RC aesthetic! I love it. Women can have their flowers and jewels. Give me my RCs! Ahahaha. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
backtomyroots 432 Posted January 13, 2014 Great work. You know, Tamiya should have released this. (Tamiya, take notes) Impressive, to say the least. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedy_w_beans 4272 Posted January 13, 2014 Thanks guys! Just a motor mount and battery tray to go, and I'll be finished. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JeepnMike 150 Posted January 14, 2014 That looks awesome Paul! I can't wait to see the videos. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sidewaysdave69 188 Posted January 14, 2014 I want one of these!! the Subaru decals look like they came with the body well done. $99 still cant believe it, even if it just sat an the shelf its worth every penny! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yello 6 Posted January 14, 2014 The TamiyaUSA store is back online... 99 plus free shipping... Must...Resist... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedy_w_beans 4272 Posted January 15, 2014 $99 is just the beginning... Anyone could have $400-$600 invested by the time it's done... Here's a straightforward bolt-together build assuming new 1/8 electronics, high discharge LiPos, and off-the-shelf e-conversion kit: $99 kit $17 chassis braces $20 silicone boots $5 shock bladders $40-$70 wheels/tires with careful shopping $30 servo $35 radio/receiver $50 ESC $53 motor $80 Lipos $100 off-the-shelf e-conversion kit $25 body $10 paint $5 stickers ------- $569-$599 My build: $99 kit $17 chassis braces $20 silicone boots $5 shock bladders $70 wheels/tires $30 servo $5 receiver -- reused transmitter $50 ESC $53 motor $0 LiPos -- reused from 1/8 buggy $30 aluminum channel and foam pads $25 body $10 paint $5 stickers ------- $419 My savings are in the radio, LiPos, and conversion. Just thought I'd share the costs in case anyone is considering it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JeepnMike 150 Posted January 15, 2014 $99 may be a fair price purely for the pleasure of the build.. Even if it is a paper weight. Thank goodness I am broke at the moment. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yello 6 Posted January 15, 2014 The typical cost for a truggy kit with no electronics is over 550 dollars, and that's sometimes without tires. So at 99 bucks, the 801xt is still a definite steal, and even more so if speedy's DIY conversion works out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JeepnMike 150 Posted January 15, 2014 The problem lies with parts... I have had several moral battle dilemma PMs with Speedy about doing this, and there is a good chance the liquidation prices you are seeing are also indicative that Tamiya is also liquidating stock of replacement parts for these cars. If you buy one and build it and break it, you may be stuck with a truggy you can't run because replacement parts aren't being produced. If I was certain that wasn't the case, I would have bought one by now. The liquidation prices should be a bit of an alarm though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted January 15, 2014 You're not the only one with the dilemna Mike - sorry Paul for filling your inbox ! Whilst it's one heck of a piece of kit for the money, and if you are in the US its almost a good buy just to build and display the chassis, it doesn't rally work out for me.. $100 kit $20 braces $60 shipping to UK $180 total Doesn't seem too bad at ca £110, but after import duty of £15 (based on $60 declared value and $60 shipping) and similar handling fee its looking more like £140 before wheels and electrics. So you can add on at least £70 for even hobbyking esc/motor, £30 for a servo and then ca £50-60 for wheels/tyres Effectivly you are looking at a £300 build and then batteries and RX If I were in the US i'd buy it regardless at that price, for the build experience and for chassis display Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildwillydriver 33 Posted January 16, 2014 Fantastic build thread you really did a fantastic job on a superb car!!! It's a shame that Tamiya TRF left the project on 1:8 race cars since they were fantastic kits, i still own and race the TRF801X buggy (one +5mm long chassis and one standard chassis) but i think i'm virtually alone (for sure in my country i'm the only one) and to have parts, in the last year and a half i bought some lot of new and used parts all around the world (even directely from Tamiya USA drivers) and now i can race it for some seasons without have to worry about nothing but that's the only way to go. Bye WWD Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedy_w_beans 4272 Posted January 16, 2014 Thanks, WWD! Yesterday I bought some aluminum L-channel, flat bar, and some metric drills and taps. I took a lot of measurements of the aluminum stock, diff center mount, spur gear, pinion gear, motor, etc. and am working on a plan. A quick test of a 13T pinion with the 50T spur showed me the motor has almost no clearance relative the rear chassis brace. If I try this same combination on the other side (where the original nitro motor would go), then I do have adequate space for the motor. I may have to adjust my plans regarding motor and battery placement. Anyhow, I hope to have some templates developed over the next few days so there is a solid plan for how to use the materials. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted January 16, 2014 Looking at the threads on RC Monster it appears some guys were using 16T pinions, with 48T spur ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedy_w_beans 4272 Posted January 16, 2014 Well, let's think this out a little... My NEXX8 is running 46T spur, 13T pinion, and 43T ring gear and 13T diff pinion. So the FDR is (46/13)*(43/13) = 11.70 (not much different from the TRF801X buggy's 11.34). This setup works pretty well with a 2650kV motor on 4S. It's fast (45 mph), but it gets just a little warmer than I'd like. It's actually great for bashing but borderline for racing (thinking about load and temps, not drivability). If I used a 2100kV motor on 4S, I'm confident the setup would stay cool but I'd also see a reduction in top speed, maybe just 35 mph. The TRF801XT comes with 50T spur, 13T clutch endbell, 43T ring gear and 10T diff pinion. The FDR is (50/13)*(43/10) = 16.54, which is much higher. The rub is the tire size is different -- 139 mm truck tires instead of 115 mm buggy tires, and the weight could be an extra 1 or 1.5 kilograms given the bigger tires, longer chassis, and electric conversion. So if I treat the buggy as a reference point and then consider tire size differences, the FDR kind of looks like (50T/13)*(43/10)*(115/139) = 13.68 from the motor's perspective. Add in some fudge factor for the weight and how that loads the motor, and the motor might see loading comparable to a buggy. The FDR is different for a truggy versus a buggy so the same .21 to .28 nitro motor can be used in either application. If a brushless motor works acceptably in a buggy, it should work in a truggy as long as the FDR is appropriate to compensate for tires and weight. I'd really like to start with a 13T pinion to match the stock endbell, and then work my way up to a 14T or 15T pinion if motor temps allow for it. Because of this, I'm fretting a little about motor placement and clearance with a 13T pinion... I was looking at the center diff this morning before leaving for work, and it seems like the center diff is cocked just a little, which partially explains my clearance problem with the rear chassis brace. To get the whole face of each gear tooth mating properly, I want to make sure the pinion is aligned with the spur. I need to check the center diff mounts for squareness with the chassis tonight; since they're plastic I might not have equal screw tension on all corners of the mount, which would compress the spacers under the mounts unequally and lead to the diff being a little crooked. Straightening the diff mounts so the spur is perfectly aligned might mean the motor will no longer touch the side of the rear brace. Regardless, I want the spur correctly aligned so the motor mount bracket isn't installed crooked on the chassis. I feel my OCD/perfectionist tendencies starting to come out on this... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted January 16, 2014 Paul - I'd forgotten about the diameter of your tyres, but as you say it probably doesn't work out a lot different in the end. With the stock 50T spur the difference in a 13T and 14T is pretty minimal IMO. I did find some threads today either on RC Monster forum or rctech (I only read about 30 pages of the 801X thread in the nitro section) and I picked up that the buggy centre diff mount is definitely tilted, maybe the truggy one is too but just a lot less ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedy_w_beans 4272 Posted January 16, 2014 Actually, it's the motor mount that's tilted on the buggy to centralize mass as much as possible. The truggy has a flat motor mount. I think some people have tried the tilted motor mount on the truggy and they couldn't really feel a difference. I'm focusing on the center diff mounts at the moment... I hate it when the project team at work calls a late meeting; this evening is looking like a lost cause... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Klausen 1197 Posted January 17, 2014 Just bought one from TamiyaUSA, looking forward to build it. If you guys in Europe want to be without the possibility of taxes, it is on sale at Tamico this week for 188,88 €. More expensive, but less shipping and no taxes. http://www.tamico.de/Tamiya-TRF801XT-Truggy-1-8-Bausatz-49497 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
