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Posted

Is there any other parts I need for the 4wd conversion?

19805551 x 2 drive shaft

50823 x 2 Wheel axle

19805368 gearbox joint, short and long

And of course the other gearbox.

Is there anything I have overlooked?

Posted

That is pretty much it from the mechanical side.

You will also need a TL01B front bumper, as the WT01 one used on the Blackfoot 3 doesn't fit the gearbox. If you have the bits left over from your kit, it will be amongst them.

And of course you will also need an ESC capable of handling both your motors, and bearings for the second gearbox.

Then you should be good to go!

  • Like 1
Posted

If you're going for motors any hotter than silver cans or sport tuned then the best value ESC is the Ripmax no limit ESC. Sadly they're no longer in production but come up for sale fairly regularly for around the £30 mark. Also, if going for hotter motors then you need to ensure the timing is adjustable so that you can reverse the timing on one to allow both to rotate at the same speeds.

  • Like 1
Posted

Its basically as said . All your doing is duplicating the front end set up on the rear . You will need to reverse the rear servo but that's easy enough to do by cutting the servo cable wires and then soldering them to the alternate's . Adjustable steering links are advisable in order to set the steering throw up . I have found that slightly less throw on the rear makes it more controllable . Decent servos are a must and alloy servo mounts as the originals flex far too much .

Its a fairly easy conversion and a lot of fun once done .

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks for the replies folks,

I just googled the part number for the wheel axle, and it comes up with an axle for the tg-10. I guess they all share the same part.?

Do they fit ok?.

I guess it's the same for the gearbox joint?, there will be a few models that share this part?.

I don't want to buy complete bags if possible

Posted

Yes, the TG10 axles fit perfectly. The WR01 and WT01 share uprights with the TL01, which in turn uses axles that are same dimensions as the TG10 items.

Same goes for the splined gearbox joints. The same items are used on multiple models.

  • Like 1
Posted

Whilst it won't get stuck as much, it under steers like crazy and burns through batteries twice as fast. I had a Double Blaze and a Blackfoot Xtreme, the latter is a lot more fun. Lock the diff and nothing much stops it, with the advantage of doing some epic donuts.

The twin motor one got sold on. Just sayin', you should consider your options carefully...

Posted

@ Reilluor I will probably be using lipo, so not too bothered about runtimes, Not even started building the kit yet, so I am taking in all your advice before I start.

I was even thinking about building it in front wheel drive configuration to start with just for a laugh. :D I will keep the parts so I can swap it back to 2wd.

I did wonder why this chassis type wasn't more popular?

Posted

I think that the limited amount of suspension travel was its shortfall . It can be improved by fitting the after market shock towers and 100mm dampers but just not in the same class as lets say a Clod . . However it is a decent chassis and reasonably priced and simple to work on .

Posted

I / we all forgot the "O" rings for inside the drive cups, I sent a late night, last minute e-mail to Joanne at fusion with a brief explanation of what I was doing, and she sent me a complete parts list including the "O" rings.

That is great service. :D:D

Posted

You doing 4 wheel steering and drive? Is it the same gearbox and chassis as the wild dagger without the second gearbox? I'm confused with the chassis now. What is the wild dagger chassis an what is the blackfoot 3 chassis? I know they do share some tl01 parts. I've got a dualhunter and done loads to it but finding a decent lipo to fit is still on my list due to the battery holder shape. Thinking of making an alloy chassis when I get time as I want to run a 3s. I'll be interested to see how this turns out have fun with it.

Posted

You doing 4 wheel steering and drive? Is it the same gearbox and chassis as the wild dagger without the second gearbox? I'm confused with the chassis now. What is the wild dagger chassis an what is the blackfoot 3 chassis? I know they do share some tl01 parts. I've got a dualhunter and done loads to it but finding a decent lipo to fit is still on my list due to the battery holder shape. Thinking of making an alloy chassis when I get time as I want to run a 3s. I'll be interested to see how this turns out have fun with it.

Essentially they're identical chassis aside from the gearbox and I believe the front bumper.

I run a Vapextech LiPo in mine which fits with just a tiny mod to the battery clamps.

Posted

Blackfoot 3 / Wild Dagger / Dual hunter all share the same chassis . If you add a second gear box to the Blackfoot 3 in effect you have a WD OR DH .

Posted

The Wild Dagger, Twin Detonator, Dual Hunter and Double Blaze are all based on the WR01 chassis, which has two gearboxes and is 4WD.

The Blackfoot III, Mud Blaster II, etc are based on the RWD WT01 chassis, which is identical to the WR01 except that the front gearbox is replaced with a simple plastic bracket that holds the suspension, and a different front bumper moulding.

Both chassis use the suspension arms, hubs, etc from the TL01B buggy.

Both chassis can easily be converted to 4WS by replicating the front steering setup at the back, as the main chassis is fully symmetrical.

By swapping the plastic bracket for a gearbox, or gearbox for a plastic bracket, the chassis can be built as RWD, FWD, 4WD or as a display chassis with no drive whatsoever.

  • Like 1
Posted

Here's where I am,

I bought the blackfoot 3 kit with the intention of making it 4WD, kit was £110, ( but it comes with the hard blackfoot body. nice. :) )

Stainless steel wheel axle £4.50 posted

WR-02 gearbox £14.95 posted

20x 1150 bearings £10.00

Driveshafts/ dogbones £7.99

Gearbox joint set £4.99

0.6 mod 18 T steel pinion x2 £9.00

I had a couple of "o rings" in spares.

£52 We'll round it down in case the Mrs reads this, :lol: £160 total spend so far. Now I've just looked on modelsport at 4wd drive monster trucks and there is nothing at 1/10 scale at that price range. So I don't think it was overpriced at all. :)

I was going to do a build thread of the whole kit but I am the most rubbish photographer ever, and coupled with a basic camera, it would be like torture for your eyeballs.

DSCF6179_zpsa745e684.jpg

I have used two 104 BK ESC's ( the kit came with the 105 but I had a spare 104 so that they match)

During testing, with a bit of reverse then forwards the receiver cuts out acts like it has no signal but soon returns to normal, I hear you all shouting UBEC at me with the 104 ESC, but I have never had this problem before???

I know it's a bit of a mess with the wires, I will tidy it up when I work out what I will use for power.

The way it's set up with 2 ESC's I have have FWD or 4WD at the flick of a switch,

or RWD or 4WD after swapping a wire. :)

Posted

When I built mine I fitted a RCLine No Limit ESC and was intending to run both motors from the one ESC via sliced power cables, as I was never intending to run anything faster than a couple of standard silver cans it wasn't a problem. I tested it and it seemed fine without any overheating probs.

  • Like 1
Posted

I also run dual ESCs on my WR01 Twin Detonator, and there are two ways I find they come in useful. With 4WS and a 4-channel radio, you can either use them as an electronic dig setup, locking the back axle while scrabbling around a corner with the front, or you can spin the front wheels up forwards and the back ones in reverse, combine this with 4WS, and make the whole rig move sideways. Makes for a very maneuverable rig indeed. :)

I can't say I have ever had any brown-out problems either, but then my setup is a bit different, with two TEU101BK ESCs rather than the 104s you are using.

  • Like 1
Posted

Are you using a 2.4GHz system or 27MHz?

I had no end of trouble with my 2.4GHz system on my Twin Detonator until I fitted an ESC that had a built in BEC.

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