Twin Detonator Rebuild

[Percymon 2184]

and still available from www.seben-racing.de

http://shop.seben.com/sms/shop/index.php?p=b3JnYT1zZWJlbi1yYWNpbmcmZ3JvdXA9MiZsYW5nPTImY3Vycj0x&action=products&cat=221

the wheels n tyres are less then half the Tamiya price and for bashing more than capable. Bodies are cheap too, prepainted (printed) although may need a little adjustment of the bodyposts to align properly.

http://shop.seben.com/sms/shop/index.php?p=b3JnYT1zZWJlbi1yYWNpbmcmZ3JvdXA9MiZsYW5nPTImY3Vycj0x&action=products&cat=412

http://shop.seben.com/sms/shop/index.php?p=b3JnYT1zZWJlbi1yYWNpbmcmZ3JvdXA9MiZsYW5nPTImY3Vycj0x&action=products&cat=472&mode=view&id=152

[waterbok 1282]

no need to glue the tires to the rims, not necesary for standard brushed electric cars. lol

[lentner3 281]

are those tyres a direct fit for the twin dagger/monster beetle ones? not bad for 10

[SteveU30 1011]

are those tyres a direct fit for the twin dagger/monster beetle ones? not bad for 10

Yes they are, I have them on my King Blackfoot and they are exact replicas of the original Tamiya ones (I'm talking about the pin spoke ones).

[lentner3 281]

http://shop.seben.com/sms/shop/index.php?p=b3JnYT1zZWJlbi1yYWNpbmcmZ3JvdXA9MiZsYW5nPTImY3Vycj0x&action=products&cat=472&mode=view&id=1855. these?

[SteveU30 1011]

http://shop.seben.com/sms/shop/index.php?p=b3JnYT1zZWJlbi1yYWNpbmcmZ3JvdXA9MiZsYW5nPTImY3Vycj0x&action=products&cat=472&mode=view&id=1855. these?

Seben don't seem to sell the ones I bought at the moment (they usually do), I actually bought them off an eBay seller here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150879652815

[burgerboy78 3]

right ive built up front and rear gearboxes with metal ball bearing, fitted all the ally arms but now im stuck ?!?

i have no idea how to mount the shocks. The original shock screws have the threaded bit then like the bush on with the shock can move on , but this doesnt fit through the g-made balls on the shocks. The tops i guess i am going to have to nut and bolt but where do i get tiny nuts and bolts from?

Sorry if none of that makes sense. If anyone has pictures on how theirs are mounted that would be great.

I will upload build pictures later

[Percymon 2184]

Yes you need a machine threaded screw / bolt and locknuts plus maybe some 3mm washers

i used www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk

they give good service and you can buy small amounts - maybe not the cheapest but reliable.

you could look on ebay for M3 stainless screws/nuts/bolts - A2 grade stainless is fine. Lots of nuts n bolts on ebay are black colour, basically treated steel which will corrode

I'd guess at you needing 20mm long screws, but you'll need to measure - maybe 18mm, maybe 25mm ?

Go for hex cap ones, so you use a allen key rather than a screwdriver

[waterbok 1282]

tamiya standard 3mm bolts and nuts.

[burgerboy78 3]

right got some bits through the post which consisted off

Twin Detonator body and Tamiya PS-16 blue (now pinted but will put pictures on when stickers arrive)

Junfac wheel spacer to correct the offset of the new wheels when they come back into stock.

18t Steel pinion gears

GPM Alloy upper and lower control arms and strut towers (ordered another bluje one from asiatec)

Gmade Zero shocks

and thats about it. I also had a metal ball bearing kit but i forgot to take pictures of that

anyway stripped it down

packed the rear diff with grease to make it stiffer,I put alot more grease in than pictured and feels stiffer than the fronts which i didnt touch.

if it makes a difference i dont know but hey ho.

and rebuilt it

some old bearings

i didnt realize that the wheel bearings were plastic and was wondering what the remaining bearing were for so had to take it apart again to change the wheel bearing. woops.

Put the steel pinion gears on after hunting far and wide for a 1.5 allen key

Could someone tell me whats wrong with the original pinion gears?

and also built up the shocks. im now waiting for bolts and nuts to arrive to hopefully mount them. the difference between these shocks and the stndard ones are amazing!

anyway thats all for now. Need the boltss and wheels to come through and also stickers for the body, oh and my next pay check so i can carry on splashing out on it!

[Percymon 2184]

Originally pinion gears are soft aluminium, they wear fast and contaminate your gearboxes with aluminium dust which makes a nice grinding paste when mixed with the grease.

[burgerboy78 3]

Originally pinion gears are soft aluminium, they wear fast and contaminate your gearboxes with aluminium dust which makes a nice grinding paste when mixed with the grease.

ahh that would be why then. i was expecting them to be plastic when i was undoing the screws.

[bromvw 744]

The standard Tamiya pinions are in a word Cack . Butter soft alloy that wears out in no time at all while covering your gears in very fine metal filings that in turn ruin the gears . Better safe than sorry so as a rule their replaced with the better quality items as you have done

[waterbok 1282]

Better to replace the upper screws that attach the dampermount to the chassis for some longer M3 with nut,

on mine the plastic started to show small fractures due to the tapping screws putting to much strain on it.

(oh and put a reamer or 3mm drill thru it first)

[bromvw 744]

totally agree , run a 3mm drill through the holes and use nuts and bolts rather then the supplied ones .

[burgerboy78 3]

Stickers for the shell arrived from Florida today. Midway through cutting out the decals but im having a break and my girlfriend has taken over the craft knife. She better not mess it up ha! Wish they were pre cut would make life so much easier!

Oh and i snapped a bolt in the lower arm when fitting the shocks. So need another pair of lower arms

Will upload pictures when the stickers are all on

[burgerboy78 3]

So i managed to snap one of the M3 bolts that hold the shock into the lower arm which is a pig. I cant get it out so ive given it to my pal who works at a mchine shop and he's in the middle of doing that However the other three shocks are all bolted on.

I did what you all suggested and nut and bolted the shock towers as i noticed it had cracked

Also done the body shell. The paint came out amazing and the colour looks great in the sun the pictures dont really do it any justice.

However im really disappointed withe the way the decals came out. I spent ages cutting them out with a craft knife and i just found it really hard to line them all up properly. The windows have a few air bubbles in and a slight crease in the stop of the front windscreen but its mainly the flames. They don't match if you look at it from front on where they meet the grill but its the best i did do and has taken me around 6-7 hours just to cut out the decals and apply them.

Im still waiting for the wheels to arrive from Fusion and shes ringing me tomorrow morning with an update.

Still confused bout motors after watching the video of the brushless TXT-1 im half temped to just 2wd it but we shall see what the future brings. I just want to go and have fun bashing now!

[bromvw 744]

Is there a reason for the shocks being upside down ?

[Percymon 2184]

Body looks great - and the grille line won't matter when its running.

Did you apply the decals direct or dip them in soapy water so you could manoeuvre them into place ?

[burgerboy78 3]

Are they upside down? I just figured a car shock is fitted that way up and they have less chance of leaking. Surely it wont affect the operation?

Thanks i didn't do that i just stuck them on but i wish i had now! I just youtubed what you mean and that looks so much easier. At least i know for next time now ay!

[SteveU30 1011]

RC cars have always had shockies fitted upside down when compared to a 1:1 car. I agree with you that it has less chance of leaking, it just looks a bit odd that's all.

[Rabiedmushroom 2]

Your Twin Det rebuild is looking really nice, good job.

I had a hopped-up Wild a Dagger and it was such a fun all rounder.

I'm loving the GMade shocks, I didn't realise they were available, gonna get me a set of those. If they are like anything else made by GMade they'll be virtually indestructible and I'm fed up of my trucks pinging cheapy shock ends off.

[burgerboy78 3]

The shocks are great but i dont really understand the bottom balls as they can slide backwards and forwards on them on the blue ball joint part? The tops have to b e pressed in with pliars.

Anyway i cancled the order of the Gmade beadlocks as they still arent in stock and went for some HPI split % wheels in white. I like the design and the stock wheels are white.

Pictures of it all built up. Can drop it from 2 foot and it just soaks it up which im pretty amazed at. I remember as a kid when my dad took me to buy the truck, the model shop had a Traxxas T maxx and he just dropped it and i remember both me and my Dad being amazed by the suspension, so the way this handled the drop made me happy.

And the generic flex pics

Im so pleased with it i just want to go bashing but i need a new shell as there is no way im going to damage this one!

Aswell as finishing this i bought an Axial Wraith Poison Spyder last night which was very naughty of me!

Im going to try the battery out in this to see how well it performs, its a Overlander Tornado 3800mah stick.

When payday arrives im also going to purchase another battery so i can run both trucks at the same time, an ESC and maybe a better steering servo and alloy horn as this seems quite weak with these tyres on it.

More updates to come!

[kontemax 1725]

I suggest you to mount the dampers in the correct position for two reasons:

1. The weight should be on the chassis not on the suspension arms. The heavier part of the shock absorber must not move up and down, this will affect your suspension efficiency.

2. The damper cilinder part is more exposed to crashes, stones and other kind of hits if positioned as you mounted it.

At the end the oil leaking is not due the gravity force but due the oil pressure inside the dampers when they compress. This don't matter the damper position. If the damper leaks it leaks, in any position it is mounted.

Max

[bromvw 744]

I found that the steering issues are not caused by the servo as such but by the amount of flex in the cheapo plastic servo mounts . Replace them with alloy mounts and the improvement is very noticeable . Easy fix and something I would try before replacing the actual servo .