mtbkym01 3674 Posted January 3, 2014 What do you guys use for removing paint from body shells (styrene and lexan) and what kind of volumes are required. Cheers for your thoughts Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GregM 1109 Posted January 3, 2014 Your question just comes in time, as I'm about to remove small bleeds of paint from a MINI S 2006 lexan bodyshell. I'll be trying Carson Paint Killer (please don't care too much for Carson's hilariously bad Google-translated English product descriptions. They should REALLY get a proper person to do the translation work, even their printed catalogues have been like this for years now). The folks at Tamico recommended it for lexan, as they've been using it for their own R/C car models, but weren't sure about the effect on hardbodies. That stuff would be too expensive to strip whole bodyshells with, anyway. Well, if you browse through older threads in this forum area, you'll find tons of threads dedicated to removing paint from lexan (polycarbonate) or hardbody (polystyrene) bodyshells. Both shell types require different approaches. Your success will also heavily depend on what kind of paint (PS, TS, or even non-Tamiya paints) or primer have been used previously. The Jang from UltimateRC.com used DOT4 brake fluid to strip whole lexan bodyshells. Unfortunately, the how-to video isn't available anymore. More information in: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=70869 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mtbkym01 3674 Posted January 3, 2014 I guess I'm specifically asking about the graffiti remover products rather than any other methods which I've seen and tried before, but thanks for the info Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1808 Posted January 3, 2014 Jangster used rubbing/isopropyl alcohol, nitrofuel & brakefluid. What do you guys use for removing paint from body shells (styrene and lexan) and what kind of volumes are required.Cheers for your thoughts helps if you know what the paint is mystery paint on a hardshell, we'll hit it with EasyOff oven cleaner in the red can. Its only $3ea from Coles/Safeway and if you keep the whole body in a sealed tub so it doesn't dryout that quick... give it a mistover every few hours... 1 can could do a whole 3spd shell. If somebody's used housepaint metho works. If they've used engine enamel, VHT etc... that stuff is pretty tough. Could take all week under EasyOff or longer soaking in brakefluid. Would need enough fluid to fill that plastic tub. PS paint on lexan is hardest... fresh overspray use Tamiya's Polycarbonate Cleaner. But it comes in itty bitty $10 bottle and you'd need 3-5 to do a decent shell... usually not worth it. Plus when you've done so much rubbing on lexan, it'll weaken & craze. Testors paint cleaner is available at some LHS around here. About $10 for a palmsized can. Bunnings/Masters also sells various graffitti cleaners, haven't tried meself. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1808 Posted January 3, 2014 I guess I'm specifically asking about the graffiti remover products have tried a few citrus-based solvents... didn't really do much imho but they weren't the commercial-strength stuff i see sold in jerrycans Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mtbkym01 3674 Posted January 3, 2014 hmm, might check out Bunnings and give one of the graffiti products a try, thanks WC Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1808 Posted January 3, 2014 yeah, down east here Masters probably has better range of cleaning stuff ... but at $30+ a bottle i CBF'd buying without trying Both sells many different solvents in their paint section but what's real wierd is i can't find any Isopropyl Alcohol in decent sized cans anywhere "retail", only in tiny <500ml spraybottles. Yet in USA any "drugstore" carry quart & larger cans. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mtbkym01 3674 Posted January 3, 2014 I used to buy 4l bottles of Iso from a chemical company up North Q when I lived up there for work, haven't bought any down this way though Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1808 Posted January 3, 2014 yeah same... gotta hunt down solvent suppliers, haven't ordered print supplies for sometime. Always keep a bottle on the workbench but now am running low on reserve. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yogi-bear 2206 Posted January 3, 2014 I will once again put in my vote for dettol. I've used it on about 3 hard bodies so far and it removes it fairly quickly and doesn't seem to do any damage. I've had limited success on polycarbonate bodies though. Its not the cheapest though at $10 for 750 ml, but I've found it better and quicker than the graffiti remove from buntings (earth something) and quicker than brake fluid. Brake fluid also seemed to dry out the hard bodies when I tried it, which dettol didn't do. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1808 Posted January 3, 2014 I will once again put in my vote for dettol. I've used it on about 3 hard bodies so far and it removes it fairly quickly and doesn't seem to do any damage. I've had limited success on polycarbonate bodies though. Its not the cheapest though at $10 for 750 ml, but I've found it better and quicker than the graffiti remove from buntings (earth something) and quicker than brake fluid. Brake fluid also seemed to dry out the hard bodies when I tried it, which dettol didn't do. Dettol like the honey-coloured antiseptic? have heard some mention of it but never tried... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yogi-bear 2206 Posted January 3, 2014 Dettol like the honey-coloured antiseptic? have heard some mention of it but never tried... thats the stuff, but make sure its the antiseptic and not the hand wash. Here is a like to a countach that I stripped http://www.tamiyabase.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&Itemid=476&catid=33&id=18083&limitstart=0 and a pic of a brat, along with some other tests http://www.tamiyabase.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=11&id=17789&limitstart=20&Itemid=476#21030 I stumbled on dettol when googling alternatives and its seems its a popular option for stripping war hammer and other mini figures. I re-use the dettol and clean it by filtering it through my wife's old stockings. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sidewaysdave69 188 Posted January 3, 2014 hmmm detol need to try that one. the graffiti remover will take the paint of lexan but be very careful and wash it off after every application. I did manage to ruin a dyna storm body with it, it turned it cloudy in places. but that was me applying it and then forgetting about it for over an hour. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SB_Aust 42 Posted January 3, 2014 Our local hardware store (Bunnings) used to stock http://www.liftoffinc.com/product-graffiti-remover.php For some reason i have not seen it on the shop shelf for about a year now. It was very good on styrene and lexan. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bjr250 22 Posted January 3, 2014 Our local hardware store (Bunnings) used to stock http://www.liftoffinc.com/product-graffiti-remover.php For some reason i have not seen it on the shop shelf for about a year now. It was very good on styrene and lexan. I have used this as well to strip a Super Astue shell a few years ago and had good results (although it took a while). I have not noticed any degradation of the lexan and it has been over five years and that shell has been a light runner. One word of caution, it will strip the colour from decals as well. Tamiya's Polycarbonate Cleaner is great on fresh paint and overspray. It will also work on old paint. I have used this to strip a Dynastorm body and used a little less than half a bottle. As Willy said it would be quite expensive for a large shell. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1808 Posted January 3, 2014 Our local hardware store (Bunnings) used to stock http://www.liftoffinc.com/product-graffiti-remover.php For some reason i have not seen it on the shop shelf for about a year now. It was very good on styrene and lexan. yeah Bunnings have been cutting back on a lot of "good stuff" Used to be you'd have a choice of cheap or decent gear you'd pay more $ for, these days the dearer stuff has vanished leaving on the 1-use-&-throwaway carp. it may have disappeared from Bunnings as Lowes sells it in USA; Lowes & Woolworths joined up to open Masters will have a look next time i'm in Masters Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SB_Aust 42 Posted January 4, 2014 yeah Bunnings have been cutting back on a lot of "good stuff" Used to be you'd have a choice of cheap or decent gear you'd pay more $ for, these days the dearer stuff has vanished leaving on the 1-use-&-throwaway carp. it may have disappeared from Bunnings as Lowes sells it in USA; Lowes & Woolworths joined up to open Masters will have a look next time i'm in Masters Good Point! I will try Masters also...Thanks. I still have a couple of the liftoff spray bottles (full) in my shed that i bought from Bunnings a few years back. It was becoming harder to buy so i stocked up, then all of a sudden no more. I had great results on my vintage Ranger, Rough Rider and Monster Beetle shells. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GregM 1109 Posted February 4, 2014 Your question just comes in time, as I'm about to remove small bleeds of paint from a MINI S 2006 lexan bodyshell. I'll be trying Carson Paint Killer (please don't care too much for Carson's hilariously bad Google-translated English product descriptions. They should REALLY get a proper person to do the translation work, even their printed catalogues have been like this for years now). The folks at Tamico recommended it for lexan, as they've been using it for their own R/C car models, but weren't sure about the effect on hardbodies. That stuff would be too expensive to strip whole bodyshells with, anyway. Update time, woohoo! Carson paint killer was able to remove the bleeds of PS-5 black on the Mini bodyshell! Rubbed the shell gently with a q-tip and within seconds, the paint disappeared. No clouding and no damage, the shell stayed clear at the treated locations. Very much recommended if you guys want to do small corrections on your polycarb bodyshells. Haven't tried on X-, XF-, or TS-paints so far. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1808 Posted February 5, 2014 if its just PS5 I'd use T's purple bottle Good Point! I will try Masters also...Thanks. I still have a couple of the liftoff spray bottles (full) in my shed that i bought from Bunnings a few years back. It was becoming harder to buy so i stocked up, then all of a sudden no more. I had great results on my vintage Ranger, Rough Rider and Monster Beetle shells. I went both Bunnings & Masters searching for LiftOff brand... (Motsen)Burgger-all to be found down this way 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SB_Aust 42 Posted March 14, 2015 if its just PS5 I'd use T's purple bottle I went both Bunnings & Masters searching for LiftOff brand... (Motsen)Burgger-all to be found down this way To revive an older thread. WillyChang! Masters store now sells Liftoff #4. In spray bottle or 4 litres large container. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
