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DaveB

Avante 2011 - Essential Upgrades

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So I have an Avante headed my way and I was wondering what would be the 'essential' upgrades to get the car to a good occasional runner spec., bearing in mind that I wont be going brushless as I want to keep the car as original as possible.

It looks like the racing steering set is a must have and I was considering a sealed bearing set.

Any suggestions?

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I'm upgrading an original avante with the following,,,

torque slitter set

racing steering

new bearings (a given for any resto)

Alloy E2 / E3 parts from pargustore - also on ebay item 23133446944

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TSS disconnect the front wheels from the motor when you release the trottle leaving them run free. This means that in reverse your Avante will be a rear wheel drive only.

You can see the difference when you drive the car in a track. When you release the trottle before a turn your front wheels will run free but your rear wheels will be slightly slowed buy the motor so your car will be like a 2wd in that moment and will turn faster.

All drive style will be more nervous but also more effective.

Personally I don't like the Torque Splitter on the Avante. I use all ball diffs, front rear and center. The car is more balanced imho. But it depends also by the track conditions.

Max

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Yeah one ways can really upset a car, off power and braking can give you nightmares as a novice driver as the car can very easily swap ends.

I would leave it for the Avante, i can honestly say I've only driven one chassis where a one way made the car a beauty to drive hard, and that was the 94 YZ10, everything else, I've always found enough steering for most tracks.

lee

To add, not calling you a novice driver lol, just to be clear Dave lol.

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Dave - remember I'm coming at mine as a resto/update, so the TSS represents good value for all that it contains. If I were building a new kit then no I wouldn't bother with it, as others say the one way effect in a shorter wheelbase rig like the Avante (cf Egress) is going to make things very twitchy

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Interesting that nobody mentions titanium rod set #53009. It is known that the threaded shafts bend easily.

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titanium is SOFTER than steel. It's used in RC for weight reduction only.

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titanium is SOFTER than steel. It's used in RC for weight reduction only.

Aha? I would have assumed the opposite as the threaded shafts in the kit are definately not high-grade or tempered/hardened steel

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they are just meant to reduce weight by a few grams. Same with the titanium screws. If you ever compare tamiya's steel hex screws (not hardened) to tamiya's titanium hex screws, you would see the titanium is much much softer and prone to stripping. Same as the even the most basic steel turnbuckles will easily out last titanium turnbuckles when subject to serious abuse.

It's the strength to weight where titanium and aluminum have an advantage. Titanium is 40% lighter than steel, so it has to be made bigger to actually come out stronger.

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Titanium is a great metal, it is impossible to corrode it, it's strong almost like than steel and double than aluminum alloys but is so much lighter than steel and very little bit heavier than aluminum. Titanium is a pure metal, steel and aluminum are alloys and titanium is used inside the human body because doesn't give problems in front of steel or other materials.

On mountain bikes a titanium frame is the best you can have because it's lighter than a steel frame and is softer than a breakable alloy frame that is too much hard and unconfortable. For the same reason a titanium frame has more traction than an alloy chassis.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Titanium

Max

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Titanium is a great metal, it is impossible to corrode it, it's strong almost like than steel and double than aluminum alloys but is so much lighter than steel and very little bit heavier than aluminum. Titanium is a pure metal,

only as 'pure' as rusty iron, matey :wub:

Ti is like Aluminium, its highly reactive in oxygen and instantly forms an oxide.

TiOxide is a photoreflective particle... and is added to everything from M&Ms, white paint & skim milk! :blink:

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I'm thinking this thread is drifting off topic some what, maybe you should start a 'metals' thread...

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metallurgy! that would be Hard :lol:

back to your Q... nobody's mentioned a good/better set of wheels yet.

Avante's "pinspike rear" all round on a shorter wheelbase is twitchy, go narrower fronts for running.

bigger 2.2" wheels in the classic teardrop or star dish looks good & authentic,

most other hex mount wheels will work also.

And after spending all today wrenching on these... i'd be tempted to change all screws to hex drive!! <_<

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Guys I am thinking about dropping my Avante 22T pinion back to 20T, 19T, or maybe 18T. I have a Carson 12T brushless setup (3800kv) that I find way to fast on 3S and just not quite fast enough on 2S.

Any advise on pitch of the teeth, or various other things to watch out for? (steel obviously)

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one of the Egress i was wrenching on today needed some investigation into rear gearbox;

pretty sure there was a 20T on the motor in it...

motor mount goes about 3/4 of the way (in its total adjustment available) to mesh up

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TSS disconnect the front wheels from the motor when you release the trottle leaving them run free. This means that in reverse your Avante will be a rear wheel drive only.

You can see the difference when you drive the car in a track. When you release the trottle before a turn your front wheels will run free but your rear wheels will be slightly slowed buy the motor so your car will be like a 2wd in that moment and will turn faster.

All drive style will be more nervous but also more effective.

Personally I don't like the Torque Splitter on the Avante. I use all ball diffs, front rear and center. The car is more balanced imho. But it depends also by the track conditions.

Max

This is why i got the TSS set , so i can get the ball diffs & use the Avante centre ball diff .

I have got some Avante centre ball diff's for the Egress as well :D.

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This is the same I did with my Egress runner. I tested all configurations, the worst was the locked center spurgear, then the one way torque splitter and the best solution, the smoother and best balanced is the all ball differentials configuration.

I must anyway admitt that the locked spur gear was the faster option (but a greatly bad work for the rear diff).

Max

This is why i got the TSS set , so i can get the ball diffs & use the Avante centre ball diff .
I have got some Avante centre ball diff's for the Egress as well :D.

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Resurrecting an old topic..

I am about to build an Avante 2011 for indoor vintage racing though, and wonder if anybody knows what the material in the supplied kit 4mm rods are? The original vintage kit had aluminium rods which were a bit of a joke, they bent so easily and you simply had to use the hopup titanium set unless you were prepared to change the kit items over and over again..

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On 10/31/2018 at 8:19 AM, pUs said:

Resurrecting an old topic..

I am about to build an Avante 2011 for indoor vintage racing though, and wonder if anybody knows what the material in the supplied kit 4mm rods are? The original vintage kit had aluminium rods which were a bit of a joke, they bent so easily and you simply had to use the hopup titanium set unless you were prepared to change the kit items over and over again..

The new ones are VERY strong. I don't know what material they are. I ran my BS Avante very hard on a 1/8 track with big jumps. I never broke anything. These cars are very strong now with modern materials.

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Thanks for the reply!

If they're very strong my guess is they're not made out of aluminium anymore (which is great news in itself), just hope it's not steel since the car is heavy enough as it is :)  I'll have a closer look once it's time to start the build. I have the original ti vintage upgrades on hand as well, should it be needed.

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