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wood5tock

Wood5tock's Super Hornet II build

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After completing my Novafox I was itching to get on with another project so decided to get on with this custom new build

Back in 1993 I bought myself my first Tamiya, a 58124 Super Hornet I have since started to restore it and now decided to retire it to shelf queen status once I have finished it. A idea was then sparked by XV Pilot was to create an updated of my beloved Super Hornet.

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So after a bit of research and info from XV I decided to get myself a NIB 58416 Rising Fighter to form the basis to the project as it is essentially a Supper Hornet/Grass Hopper 2 sharing about 75% of the mouldings.

So lets crack on with the build. I shall build it more or less standard then start looking at hop-ups and mods etc.

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Some of the usual suspects for the build

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Got a brand new SH shell for the build :)

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Time to open the box

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Also first time to use my 'Quandry" boxes to see if they work

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Standard silver can goes straight into the spares box, getting a bit of a collection now :rolleyes:

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So on to the build steps :)

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Charge Batter :P

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Set up servo saver

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Attaching steering rods

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The tub

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First deviation from the manual, swapping the front body mount for the traditional 'R-Clip' version, the RF body uses a screw here

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These are a nice addition over the old set-up. Suspension top mount strengthening pieces

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Adding the electrics

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Another deviation, as I want to use the full driver from the original kit I need to place some of the electric slightly differently. Basically using the same layout as I have used in the SH as I know it works

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Front suspension

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Using the magic Ceramic Wax again :)

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Adding the front arms to the tub

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Suspension units, I was going to leave these off but then decided to build them just for now

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Keeping the dampers off the car for now ;)

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On to the gearbox, using proper bearings

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Left hand gear case

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Right gear case and drive shafts

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Putting together the differential, really pleased with this, should be strong enough for some good bashing :)

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Finally putting the two cases to geather

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The motor, once again I have decided to go for a Sport Tuned motor and a steel 19T pinion just for a giggle :D

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Looking great so far! Did you grease-seal the two gearbox halves when putting them together? If not, I would recommend it, especially around the motor, where there is a small gap that can let in dirt otherwise.

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Looking great so far! Did you grease-seal the two gearbox halves when putting them together? If not, I would recommend it, especially around the motor, where there is a small gap that can let in dirt otherwise.

No I didn't :o thanks for the heads up, I shall investigate the gap and sort out the seal too. Cheers bud ;)

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Look forward to seeing this thread develop :)

As I am I bit of a pinion numpty, what difference will the 19 tooth pinion make? It looks much bigger than the stock one. Which leads to the next question, how does it fit? is the motor mound adjustable?

Andy

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Fitting the gear case assembly to the tub

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Again making up the rear dampers again for reference

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Attaching the rear damper units

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Steering adjustment, I wont do this yet as I want to do it once my receiver has arrived

Here we have the almost complete chassis, Also happy to report that leaving the sub assembly from the RF that fits over the original SH resistor position hasn't caused any grief so far :)

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Attaching tyres to wheels, these wont be the final wheels though ;)

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Fitting the wheels

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Battery hatch

First off bending the ends to the new 'R-Clips'

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And there we are one rolling chassis ready for its SH makeover and modifications :)

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First very minor mod was to use the original aerial ferrule happily still on the parts sprue

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Test fitting the new SH body reveals the first minor problem, it simply doesn't fit at the front. I did a bit of head scratching at first as I was sure both the original shell and the blue RF shell are identical, apart from the rear wing and front screw mount. I narrowed the problem down to the front suspension scollops, the RF ones have been cut back 3mm either side to accept the strengthening pieces.

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Another problem I have also found is the front mount is the wrong one and is too short. Then I remembered once comparing the one off of my SH, this part is on the SH 'D' parts sprue and alas doee not come in the new RF kit, so I will be keeping an eagle eye on aBay, but I have seen that Tamico have them in stock so i may have to make up an order :ph34r::ph34r::ph34r:

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That's it for now ;)

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looking good. I really want a SH but this might be a better option. How does it doffer chassis eise as I always thought the SH chassis was somewhere between the original hornet chassis and the dt-01 aka fighter buggy rx? does the original have a hornet gearbox with the different wheel adapters with no splines? Getting the original wheels and tyres will finish it off nicely. Have you got decals too?

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Look forward to seeing this thread develop :)

As I am I bit of a pinion numpty, what difference will the 19 tooth pinion make? It looks much bigger than the stock one. Which leads to the next question, how does it fit? is the motor mound adjustable?

Andy

You and me both mate :lol:

I just wanted to start fully understanding pinion changes for myself to be honest. I knew that steel would be better wear wise but as far as the sizes, pitches and teeth I wanted to note the real life difference myself, The choice in this case was made easy for me to start with as it's the one ModelSport UK suggested.

In answer to your second question the mount is not so much adjustable as it has a second set of holes to rotate the motor effectively moving the motor away from the counter gear

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looking good. I really want a SH but this might be a better option. How does it doffer chassis eise as I always thought the SH chassis was somewhere between the original hornet chassis and the dt-01 aka fighter buggy rx? does the original have a hornet gearbox with the different wheel adapters with no splines? Getting the original wheels and tyres will finish it off nicely. Have you got decals too?

I'd say the nearest equivalent would be a Hornet tub with a DT01 gearbox on the back but really the tub is pure SH/GH2 and now Rising fighter. The addition of the DT01 box is great, as it's far stronger with a metal diff innards over the original gear box which is also used on the Lunchbox and Midnight Pumpkin et al.

Differences so far between the SH and RF chassis are none, however you add additional parts such as front suspension mount strengthening pieces and a sub assembly that goes over the original resister mount. This holds the rear wing and Aerial etc for the RF, but I'm not using this at all ;)

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Ideally I would love to use the SH wheels so will have to look into backwards 'Hex' adaptors in time

Decals wise I am desperate for standard SH decals for my resto but can't find any for love nor money :( The SHII will have... Actually I'm leaving this until the very last thing partly because I want it to be a surprise, plus I haven't fully decided myself :lol: :lol: :lol:

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Great thread so far fella, what do you do for a living by the way? I'm guessing something to do with graphic design?

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Great thread so far fella, what do you do for a living by the way? I'm guessing something to do with graphic design?

Ah shucks ya got me :) yeah graphic designer & web developer with some photographic stuff thrown in for good measure ;)

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Since you are considering putting in an order with Tamico, how about including a pair of DT01 front suspension arms? (They come in black and grey - black would look better I think.)

To me as a long-time Hornet fan, one of the most striking differences between it and the Super Hornet is the latter's extra width up front. Having gotten used to the relatively narrow front track of the Hornet, the Super Hornet seemed very wide when I saw it upon release.

Of course, compared to modern buggies, it is still quite narrow. So, since you are building a Super Hornet II, perhaps it would be appropriate to increase the track width again? DT01 front arms would give you the same track width at the front as at the back, and as far as I can tell by comparing my DT01 to my wife's Rising Fighter, they should fit without modification.

Of course you would have to make up longer steering track rods to suit, but this shouldn't be hard - most hobby shops with a boating section would carry the thin steel rods with threaded ends required, as they are often used for rudder linkages. I bought some from Cornwall Model Boats not long ago.

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Since you are considering putting in an order with Tamico, how about including a pair of DT01 front suspension arms? (They come in black and grey - black would look better I think.)

To me as a long-time Hornet fan, one of the most striking differences between it and the Super Hornet is the latter's extra width up front. Having gotten used to the relatively narrow front track of the Hornet, the Super Hornet seemed very wide when I saw it upon release.

Of course, compared to modern buggies, it is still quite narrow. So, since you are building a Super Hornet II, perhaps it would be appropriate to increase the track width again? DT01 front arms would give you the same track width at the front as at the back, and as far as I can tell by comparing my DT01 to my wife's Rising Fighter, they should fit without modification.

Of course you would have to make up longer steering track rods to suit, but this shouldn't be hard - most hobby shops with a boating section would carry the thin steel rods with threaded ends required, as they are often used for rudder linkages. I bought some from Cornwall Model Boats not long ago.

I shall bear this in mind mate thanks for the info but at this stage I don't want to go to far off the original track. Whilst I will be introducing some mods and hop-ups it is and was a pretty budget model :) this is more of a nostalgia special if you now what I mean :D

pm sent re decals.

Rich

Awesomeness right here ;)

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Got my receiver today so i could hook it all up for a wee bench test

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I also did a bit more testing of the SH body shell fitting at the front. Now I don't really want to get rid of the strengtheners as I feel they are a welcome addition but I also don't want to chop a brand new shell about either.

Another test fit with the proper front body mount stolen from my SH reveals that once fitted with an 'R-Clip' there is only about 3mm of deflection so I only need to remove a light skim of the scollops. Result! No need to chop it about after all.

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With everything buttoned up tonight a quick comparison of the two beasties :)

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And both with the bodies on :D

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One little problem has presented it's self and one I have hear about and now witnessed or rather heard. The awful gearbox back lash from the front mount when going forwards IT'S PANTS!!! So I will be looking into sorting a third shock out but first I want to play with the original side plates to see if these will work as the original SH suffers no back lash.

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Hi Wood5tock great thread. A quick question if you are in the uk where did you get your pinion from I need a new one for my madbull and they appear to have the same gearbox as your buggy.

Cheers

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another fine build.

as for you pinion. a bigger pinion will give you more top speed, a smaller one will give you better acceleration.

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Perfect thanks very much the chocolate tamiya one gave up when I exposed it to some 4250k brushless. Ironically the plastic gears appear untouched.

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another fine build.

as for you pinion. a bigger pinion will give you more top speed, a smaller one will give you better acceleration.

Cheers bud, should be a big of a giggle then :)

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Maybe its the further back/lower mounting of the shocks that prevents or lessens the gearbox backlash on the other one? Or do you think they made the little coil wire in the front mount firmer in the old one?

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Maybe its the further back/lower mounting of the shocks that prevents or lessens the gearbox backlash on the other one? Or do you think they made the little coil wire in the front mount firmer in the old one?

The former is the problem as I found out this evening as I have been having another play with the back end

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