Mokei Kagaku

New release: Tamiya DT-03 Neo Fighter Buggy

Recommended Posts

I don't have a DT03, but I do have two DT02s, which use the same arms.

I have adjustable arms on one, fixed on the other, and since setting the adjustable ones to the same length as the fixed ones, I haven't felt the need to fiddle with them. But then I am not a racer.

The adjustable ones look cooler IMNSHO, while the fixed ones are of course tougher.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, that's useful info. I have a DT02 (Super fighter GR) that I've built for bashing and so far it's stock, I've not found the need to adjust anything major yet but as XV Pilot says adjustable looks cooler.

The only hopups on my pink DT03 are the blue shock towers, so I will order some 5mm mounts but must say I think the kit should have shipped like that as it would have been a cleaner/better design?!

I'm still liking it otherwise and hope more people on here get into them.

Cheers!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jazrider on ebay do some good alloy hop up parts :D

however just a heads up for next years DT02 Challenge rules for the DT03 - no alloy suspension arms permitted :ph34r:

stupid idea anyway putting alloy suspension arms on a buggy, buggies get some of their grip from the flex in the plastic suspension arms.

anyway the reason why they are/will be banned is they are dangerous to marshals ! .............. and other cars !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll make sure i don't run into your shins with it then. ;) I'm not sure I'll do a lot more than bash but I would like to do a few races and would like to enter a car next year it sounds fun. I was looking through the DT02 HB thread and that made me want to race it.

The Jazrider stuff is very good quality I've used them over a few models and quality is consistently high. I'll be looking to improve a few bits on the DT03 and hopefully a few owners on here will add pics of theirs as I can't believe such a good car doesn't have a bigger following on this site. Or is it just because there are still so many good DT02 bargains available on sale next to it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Think we'll be adding to our fleet later this year as I think my younger boy will want to race if given the chance. I think it will be the ideal starter race buggy the he can race in a stock class with and it looks like it will be able to grow with his ability.

Carl

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ive been seriously thinking about adding a modern buggy to my fleet.

This model does seem a bit Marmite with some members disliking the exact features that others like. For me I love the long slim body and the nods to the classic Frog. Yes, this ticks all the boxes

Im going to go for a RTR model, I think most (or all) seem to come with a torque tuned motor and it will also be my first kit with 2.4 ghz radio gear.

There is some great deals on ebay with for all the above for not much more than £100 delivered :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Are you really sure you want a RTR? The RTR comes with the same torque tuned motor and CVA dampers as the kit version, as well as the same plastic bushings. Which means that if you want to do any significant running of the vehicle, you would need to pull it apart anyway to fit bearings. Which in turn means you are probably better off building the model from a kit with bearings included from the outset.

Quite a few hobby shops have bundle deals which include a 2.4GHz radio with the kit, competitively priced against the RTR version. Why not have a look for one of those?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Are you really sure you want a RTR? The RTR comes with the same torque tuned motor and CVA dampers as the kit version, as well as the same plastic bushings. Which means that if you want to do any significant running of the vehicle, you would need to pull it apart anyway to fit bearings. Which in turn means you are probably better off building the model from a kit with bearings included from the outset.

Quite a few hobby shops have bundle deals which include a 2.4GHz radio with the kit, competitively priced against the RTR version. Why not have a look for one of those?

And fit all the Hop-Ups you will "have" to buy while you are at it :-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Are you really sure you want a RTR? The RTR comes with the same torque tuned motor and CVA dampers as the kit version, as well as the same plastic bushings. Which means that if you want to do any significant running of the vehicle, you would need to pull it apart anyway to fit bearings. Which in turn means you are probably better off building the model from a kit with bearings included from the outset.

Quite a few hobby shops have bundle deals which include a 2.4GHz radio with the kit, competitively priced against the RTR version. Why not have a look for one of those?

And fit all the Hop-Ups you will "have" to buy while you are at it :-)

Interesting points gents, thanks.

So if i was to go with something along the lines of the following...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TAMIYA-58587-Neo-Fighter-Set-w-Sender-Servo-DT-03-2WD-Buggy-Kit-1-10-/291129058992?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item43c8a4e6b0

What hop ups would you recommend to incorporate into the build which would save a major strip down later?

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

other than bearings to replace the bushings, I wouldn't say there was anything that's needed for the dt-03. I remember between bearings and universal shafts though that helped with the performance nicely. Turnbuckles are nice though, and also depending on where your running I found the front tyres quite poor and got some mini spikes for running off road which was a big improvement.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bearings and a steel pinion are the basic essentials for most Tamiya builds, including this one. I like the looks of turnbuckles, and they are handy for fine-tuning the handling, but the stock arms are stronger for general running. There is also a nice servo mount upgrade for the DT03 you might consider.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi as the previous replies steel pinion and bearings are a must. The steering servo mount hop up also a good idea. When I bought mine last year I went all out including turnbuckle set, frp shock mounts, ball diff, universal joints and df03 rear wheels and tyres. The reason was I decided to fit a 20 turn brushed motor. All the hop ups are very reasonable from HK and Japan.

I was surprised how good a buggy it actually is for the money. Great fun to drive and thrash.

Steve.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A quick reminder for DT-03 owners - attempt to drive your buggys on sand only if you don't have interesting things to do in the next 2 to 4 hours after ride. The chassis layout looks like it's made to shovel everything in front of it into the battery compartment even with extra holes masked with tape. I somehow managed to get small rocks stuck between the rear suspension links and gearbox too. But it was fun to drive, yeah. Now I don't really sure, do I want to shim the front end to eliminate all the play in suspension/steering, or leave slope in case it helps to remove the debris during the ride...

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok, so i decided to rebuild my racing fighter after some bashing (or should I say bathing?), hope my adventures help you. Cause, of course, it never ends where it starts.

My first complain to the stock kit is sloppy front end, seems to be eliminated by the rust on hinge pins after only one attempt to search for ancient treasures at the bottom of the puddle:

IMG_6864.jpg

So, stainless one are going to take their places. If you'll decide to leave stock suspension arms like I did, you'll need 2 of each sets #54395 and #53301. It will be enough to replace all hinge pins in suspension as well as kingpins. Heavy shimming is required, I've used the set #53585.

The next sourсe of rattle in the suspension is step screws, which are supposed to hold CVA dampers. Replace them with 5mm ball joints, I've chosen to use set#50591, because I could use it in the front lower suspension arms as well. Little trimming required, but they are made from brass, so it's an easy job:

IMG_6848.jpg

To attach theese collars to damper stays you'll need 3x15mm tapping screws, which I doesn't have at the moment, so lets talk about some major issues with this chassis instead. Behold, the Great Drivetrain Bind!

Long story short - drive cups binds suspension arms even at the lowest suspension setting. When I inspected car after dirt thrashing I've noticed marks from both inner and outer cups on the suspension arms. Time to grind things down. This shot will help you imagine the amount of optimism I've put into initial work (left is modified with a knife, right is stock):

IMG_6844.jpg

Well, that was far from final shape. You can see how much you'll need to cut off to make it work:

IMG_6861.jpg

IMG_6862.jpg

The sandpaper is placed here so I can fine-sand the cups with help of the chassis itself. It's a meditative rotation of both wheels until the bind is gone. It needs a little more work, but improvement is obvious. Now I can use both positions for rear dampers and set clearence as I wish. You can do all this grinding, or just buy a set of DF-02 drive shafts and ball differential set for DT-02 and you'll leave all these problems behind. RC is fun, guys! Now, back to sanding...

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I took the easy way out. Fitted 53790 and 53791 to my DT03 today. Only ran for a bit, but seems to behave a little better going on/off throttle while turning. Makes the drive train more appealing to the eye as well. For whatever reason that pleases me the most. I just don't like the standard clunky looking driveline parts. 

20160719_200420.jpg

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
17 minutes ago, volvotech said:

I took the easy way out. Fitted 53790 and 53791 to my DT03 today. Only ran for a bit, but seems to behave a little better going on/off throttle while turning. Makes the drive train more appealing to the eye as well. For whatever reason that pleases me the most. I just don't like the standard clunky looking driveline parts. 

20160719_200420.jpg

I did the same with my aqroshot, much more stable 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think I'll end up with 53791 and 53863, because ball differential set already have inner drive cups. You'll need to be careful not to spend the TRF201 money on this cars.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I completely agree with you Dimitriy. Luckily most of the hop-ups I have purchased for my DT03 were found on ebay and on more than 1, I was the only bid. I got the aluminum battery bar and servo mount for next to nothing thanks to low interest in these parts and low starting prices. I think I will try diff putty to stiffen up the stock diff before I dive in to the ball diff set to keep the cost down. I promised myself the universal shafts were the last thing I would buy for this car. We'll see how that goes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I didn't find the ball diff lasted very long with a high powered brushless, it stripped the splines off the outdrives.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, volvotech said:

Perhaps it needs a hardened diff joint like 53217? I've run into that issue before.

Well, I guess no ball diff for me. I'll buy exactle the same parts as you did, it looks like the most reasonable solution.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 26 March 2014 at 11:27 AM, GregM said:

The DT-03 Neo Fighter Buggy is now available at Tamico and Seidel for 70 € (58 GBP or 96 USD). Including oil dampers.

£74 delivers to the UK, I may have to invest :)

 

do they come with bearing or bushes ?

 

cheers

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm pretty certain you'll need to buy ball bearings separately.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now