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SteveU30

I used to hate painting window rubbers!

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I like detailing my cars but until now I always hated painting the window rubbers but after stumbling across this technique on the internet I'll never put off doing them again. Here's my little how to guide to make this a painless experience.

First, apply masking tape over the rubbers ensuring to overlap the body all the way round and draw round the rubbers with a cocktail stick:

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Next, gently cut along the groove you just made with a modelling knife:

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Then, peel off the masking tape that was on the rubbers:

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Then, go round the edge with the cocktail stick to ensure it is well stuck down:

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Next, apply the paint:

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And finally peel off the masking and admire your work:

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Not bad for a first attempt if I do say so myself!

Hope some of you find this useful!

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Hope some of you find this useful!

Doh! - of course, what an excellent idea! I'm doing this next time for sure - thank you for sharing!

Jx

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Depending on the paint used for the window trim, you can use the same toothpick and scratch off any excess paint that bled/leaked around the tape after the tape is removed.

You can wrap a paper towel around the toothpick in order to ensure a clean tip (keep adjusting the paper towel so the tip of the toothpick is wrapped with a clean part after each scrape).

Usually works best after the window trim paint is somewhat/mostly dry. There is a stage where the paint isn't wet, but is still pliable/flexible (at least for acrylics).

I've had some success with flat black on my Sand Scorcher window trim.... it rubbed off leaving the body color paint untouched underneath, thus removing the "fuzzy" look that sometimes happens after removing the tape (if the tape edge wasn't perfectly sealed against the body).

See that tiny triangular silver spot on the lower-left part of the window trim on the bottom picture above. If that black body paint is well-set (ie: many weeks old or older) then the toothpick probably won't rub it off and just the silver will come off. Note that sometimes the new paint can react with the old paint and cause problems, so be careful not to make it worse. Obviously you can use a fine tip brush to touch up any problem areas if the toothpick takes away too much paint during this procedure.

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Great ideas here!

You should put the pics together for the How to section!

Also like the finishing tips from Champ 85!

Will for sure try this on my Monster Beetle body! :rolleyes:

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Was there a reason to only mask the body side and not the glass side before painting?

When pushing back the color or the stray edges, I use a cotton swap handle (the middle of a Q tip) cut at an angle. Not as hard as wood and already absorbent like a paper towel.

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Was there a reason to only mask the body side and not the glass side before painting?

 

When pushing back the color or the stray edges, I use a cotton swap handle (the middle of a Q tip) cut at an angle. Not as hard as wood and already absorbent like a paper towel.

Not quite sure I know what you mean about the glass side, obviously I took the glass out first so it's just an open aperture but are you on about not painting the inside of the frame?

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Not quite sure I know what you mean about the glass side, obviously I took the glass out first so it's just an open aperture but are you on about not painting the inside of the frame?

Sorry, had lexan body on the brain and forgot the glass came out on that one.

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Nice idea ,will give it a try . I usually mask around the body area with narrow Tamiya tape leaving the frame exposed and brush the corners in by hand .In the past I used Tamiya fibre tip 'paint-pens' - the best / easiest way to paint frames , can't get them now :(

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Just done this again on my shelfer resto Blackfoot and it came out well:

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I also used it on the trickier rear window and that also worked a treat, am really pleased!

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I just use a silver paint pen sometimes and touch up as necessary, but this would probably be more stout/permanent.

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I know this thread is ancient, but thank you!  Doing the detail painting on my Monster Beetle rerelease shell this evening and was dreading doing the window trim.  Will definitely give this a shot, thanks!

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@87lc2 Another approach I recently tried with remendous success, since I nearly died freehand painting a City Turbo window trim with my aging eyes that can't see worth a dang :lol:, was to use Tamiya's masking tape for curves.. 

I used it on the window trims and hood..

IMG_Aug82021at50618PM.jpg.0a984605d61a688187feade98e76903b.jpgIMG_Aug82021at50634PM.jpg.3164819714434f2d909a2821d205587e.jpgIMG_Aug82021at50646PM.jpg.32a6a8171e872ef1190b432c553032c6.jpg

 

Here is my freehand near death experience.. ;)

IMG_Jun32021at80832PM.jpg.94a2282664767b0290e04efdd485330d.jpgIMG_Jun32021at80849PM.jpg.0a1875b1a302939785e0dc58b14b5266.jpg

Good luck with your trim painting! 

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Wow, they both looks fantastic.  I did get my Beetle trim done tonight and this method helped a lot.  Worked perfectly on the rear window, and just a few spots that bled on the front which were easily picked off when dry.  Ended up doing the side windows free-hand and that was not enjoyable at all.  Took me forever.  Every time I do a Tamiya hard body I'm reminded that I'm not a modeler...

I will definitley get some of the Tamiya masking tape and give it a try.  Both of those shells look absolutely fantastic!

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Thanks!  Painting is done, decals tonight.  I actually love doing decals so have a good night to look forward to. 

Was just looking through the vehicles in your signature link and wow, they are all incredible.  Such attention to detail and quality work, thank you for sharing. 

 

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I’ve used this method for years on 1/24 and 1/12 scale models. The only difference being is I paint the black/silver first. Let it dry fully then mask it the same way but remove  the body side of the tape so the rubber is still covered. Then paint/spray your body colour remove the mask and hey presto. Another tip is that window rubbers are rarely Matt black. Maybe in the factory but once out in the air the change. I use either Rubber black or my preferred NATO black. Both have a slight grey tone. This goes for tarmac if you are doing dioramas. The black stuff is not black for long!!!

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