Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Well the TA03R-S or the TA03F-S has a wheelbase within 2mm of the Beetles, but the front and rear widths are more. Wandering if the M04 arms would fit the TA03 gearboxes, to give the desired width?

James

:)

Posted

ta03 arms are fairly unique, doubt there's anything too easily interchangeable with them

M03/04 arms are same fixings as TL01/TG10 although you can hack them to fit std hingepins.

I've shortened a TBevoIII to 240mm wheelbase (custom chassis plate) and 165mm track by using M03 suspension.

VW shell is an "L" from memory so you'll want 240mm.

TA05 M-Four is 210mm & mini width, its non adjustable afaik.

Ditto ABC Genetic, it's doable but aint easy to lengthen.

If you have a thriving money tree you could consider a 934 Anniversary TA05 which is 230mm out of the box,

you can probably lengthen the hingpin spacers by 6-8mm then try narrowing using M03 suspension.

Or there's always the Porsche959/Celica Rally... Can't remember how long it is though.

Bible for all RCs Mini...

http://www.rc-mini.net/joomla/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=82&Itemid=104

Posted

Well I can't say I have ever driven a RWD on road Tamiya, but I have recently restored a RWD Madcap buggy and attached a Technigold motor to it, and for being RWD it has no traction or handling issues with all the weight over the back wheels. I'd imagine the M04l chassis would be fun with a Sport tuned or a GT tuned in there. Def no less fun than a 4WD chassis.

James

:)

Posted

RWD minis are a lot harder to drive fast than FWD. tinkering with some M06s at the mo

Other complication is, stock in kit box they give you softer rear tyres for more grip.

Works ok but then when you gotta change tyres to same all round, it gets tricky.

Some ppl try to find grippier differential combos, others superglue half the front threads... ;)

Big heavy weights on rear hub seem to be helping.

Posted

The M04 is a good fun car IMO. It's not as easy to drive as the M03, which will just understeer on the limit, where the M04 will spin out when it runs out of grip - all the best reactions in the world will still struggle to correct it quickly enough like you can a full-size car.

The Beetle was indeed on the M04L chassis with the little spacer in the middle - 239mm wheelbase, but it had M-chassis sized wheels / tyres so wasn't as quick outright as the BMW M Roadster and other similar M04 cars.

TA03RS would be too wide - The Beetle is listed as 163mm wide, TA03 = 192mm wide. The wheelbase works though, as it is 237mm. The M-chassis wheels won't clear the front/rear uprights though I don't think, but larger wheels do fit the Beetle body if you're not too bothered about it scrubbing. The wheels will protrude some 12-14mm from the body though!

Posted

Camber it, bro!

HgMjGl.jpg

:P

Nice! I found the 1/10 BRM wheels at Flat4 after some lucky emails. I am going to do a copy of the inch pincher pictured with a Kamtec beetle body. It will be a callenge but I can pull it off. What do uou guys think of the M06R? I found a new one. Wasting money?

Posted

I got a Pro and a stock kit... the fancier kits give you a few hopups but not all the useful ones :(

Depending on price you might as well just get base kit and add your own bits...

Posted

Or you could shorten a TL01 chassis like I've done to fit this Kamtec Baja body.

AE1FF70E-506E-4B77-BD11-8E8B836B4147_zps

It gives you the choice of RWD, FWD or 4x4 all in one package that's easy to swap around. I'm just waiting for the standard TL01 arms to arrive to replace these longer "B" arms.

Posted

What are some good sticky tires for this dude since its just

a custom build?

what size tyres?

if you've got HPI classic wheels you'll need to stick with HPI classic tyres for their special fat sidewall

Mini tyres there's good choice from Sorex, Pit etc but I still like HPI X-pattern belteds.

Full size tyres there's plenty of racing rubber but most will be 24mm wide not 26mm.

Posted

yes as its the only part your able to cut out without major mods needed. It is also a good place to add chassis braces either side to re strengthen the chassis.

James

:)

Posted

Yep it's the obvious point to remove and leaves you with plenty of material to rebond the chassis halfs again. In the below pic I've got a standard length TL01B in the background, a 210mm wheelbase TL chassis in the middle that still retains it's battery location and a super short 170mm wheelbase chassis that fits the Wild Willy body. That one needed to loose the battery holder to shorten it enough.

DSC02652.jpg

With the chassis I just shortened for the Beetle body I only needed to remove 15mm so was even able to retain the shelf in the "electronics bay" :)

04694026-6A26-4824-937C-07174799B621_zps

Nic

Posted

You could also take an original M01/M02 chassis and put a gearbox at both ends, and have dual-motor 4WD. Wheelbase comes out to 240mm, same as the "L" length M02/M04/M06. You just have to reverse one motor like in a Clod Buster. I tried it once. It was fun, but ate batteries really fast. I'm sure it would be better with modern higher-capacity battery packs.

  • Like 1
Posted

Where did you find the BRMs?? I was asking about that a while ago and got zero useful info. Are they still being produced and sold, or did you find a set from another member?

Posted

Where did you find the BRMs?? I was asking about that a while ago and got zero useful info. Are they still being produced and sold, or did you find a set from another member?

Did you get my reply on the Samba?

Posted

Well I went with a M06R chassis for this build thinking it was a aluminium car from the pics.....uh no. Chrome plastic. You cold have knocked me over with a feather. Anyway, what would be a 2wd "friendly" motor for this car?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recent Status Updates

×
×
  • Create New...