Brat/Frog Running & Repair Questions.

[Grumpy pants]

Ok so the weather has changed for the better and at along last it is time to go outside and play!

I've just started running a Brat chassis which is a joy and it's thrown up some basic R.C questions which I need some help with please.

1. The front body post keeps coming out. I have tried a really strong adhesive, but a big enough crash just pulls the post back out of the fitting. Any tips on a cheap permanent fix? I know that better driving would help!

[Grumpy pants]

My 2nd question is about the steering rods and ball connectors, I have one 1 side that keeps popping off and that's a bit of a nuisance.

I haven't tried swapping the white rod end yet which would seem the 1st logical thing to do.

[Grumpy pants]

Last question for this morning...the front suspension is very stiff with little or no movement up and down, is this right?

It looks like it should have some movement in the arms and that this is a Maintenance issue.

[bromvw]

Front suspension should provided some movement - not a lot but its ok . Sounds like it needs a strip down and a good clean . The spring can get full of crud . Take the end cap / pusher out and have a good look - clean if required . When putting it back together a dub of AW grease on the cap helps and will also help to keep dirt out . Either that or the springs have seen better days .

Body post - looks like the hole has striped its threads . I'd drill through then make up a new post from a long machine screw bolted in place with a nyloc as the stopper and a hole drilled through the screw for the body clip .

White rod ends look worn out as do the ball ends - best to replace them

[jeekelemental]

Totally agree with bromvw.

Concerning front suspension (last question), during rebuilding it, be sure to not over tighten the radius arm's bolt (angled end must stay outside from the rest of suspension) 'cause ORV suspension, to work fine, needs to have play.

Edit: watching your pics I've noticed that upper arms bolts are not original and that you are using shims... I'm not sure that it helps suspension to work freely.

[bromvw]

Your right jeekelemental - I bet those top arms are binding and the radius arms do look as though they have being over tightened . Grumps my best advice is to download the manual and reassemble it as per . Don't worry too much about replacement parts as their cheap and quite easy to obtain .

If you need replacement wheels I have a set in almost new condition . PM if their of use and we'll sort a deal out

tires are the same as on the FAV and Buggy Champ rears - those look very dry BTW .

[Percymon]

The good news is that the hardware for the front suspension is all in Forg rere screw bag d - part 9465665, which can be bought for £4 from UK seller on ebay currently !

The cast alloy uprights are part 9088036 and come fitted with the brass ball studs - prices vary a lot but jr-rc / Jasons Store has them for $11 delivered.

Combine those with a full strip, clean and rebuild - lube the nylon pusher that slides in and out of the chassis rail - and you should be sorted suspension wise.

If you are in the UK i can send you some of the white rod end adjusters - i have loads in the spares box. Just PM me your address.

[Tamiyabigstuff]

Front body post fix - glue in a scrap piece of a parts tree with super glue, drill out the hole to fit if required and allow to set.

Now drill a new hole in the plastic to fit the body post. If you drill the hole too big then fix it again as above

A great cheap fix for screw holes in plastic components which have stripped or worn.

[nascar24jd]

All of the parts trees, tie rod ends, ball joints, and just about everything else is available online. I prefer eBay, but there are lots of other options as well. As mentioned earlier, download the manual and take the front end completely apart. Then proceed from there.

[Grumpy pants]

Front suspension should provided some movement - not a lot but its ok . Sounds like it needs a strip down and a good clean . The spring can get full of crud . Take the end cap / pusher out and have a good look - clean if required . When putting it back together a dub of AW grease on the cap helps and will also help to keep dirt out . Either that or the springs have seen better days .

Body post - looks like the hole has striped its threads . I'd drill through then make up a new post from a long machine screw bolted in place with a nyloc as the stopper and a hole drilled through the screw for the body clip .

White rod ends look worn out as do the ball ends - best to replace them

Thank you for the top tips bromvw. I really appreciate you taking the time to respond and help out.

I will strip down the front and clean it up, what does the AW stand?

I've got some grease I can use and I will probably replace the springs as well.

I was thinking something similar to you on the body post problem, I'll get my father in law on the case!

I've got some white rod ends in my spares box I'll swap them and bin these old ones.

[Grumpy pants]

Totally agree with bromvw.

Concerning front suspension (last question), during rebuilding it, be sure to not over tighten the radius arm's bolt (angled end must stay outside from the rest of suspension) 'cause ORV suspension, to work fine, needs to have play.

Edit: watching your pics I've noticed that upper arms bolts are not original and that you are using shims... I'm not sure that it helps suspension to work freely.

Thanks jeekelemental these are good tips as well.

I've found a Brat build manual I can use to make sure that it all goes back together correctly and with the right parts as well.

[Grumpy pants]

Your right jeekelemental - I bet those top arms are binding and the radius arms do look as though they have being over tightened . Grumps my best advice is to download the manual and reassemble it as per . Don't worry too much about replacement parts as their cheap and quite easy to obtain .

If you need replacement wheels I have a set in almost new condition . PM if their of use and we'll sort a deal out

tires are the same as on the FAV and Buggy Champ rears - those look very dry BTW .

I've got myself a manual for some bedtime reading now!

Thanks for the wheels offer, you are right my tyres are very dry and the rims are beaten up.

For now they will do as I'm going to run the shell and tyres to destruction.

I have a set of Super Champ rear wheels and a full set Scorchers wheels that I plan to use on the chassis.

I want to go with the Baja look with a spare shell that's sitting doing nothing some time soon!

[Grumpy pants]

The good news is that the hardware for the front suspension is all in Forg rere screw bag d - part 9465665, which can be bought for £4 from UK seller on ebay currently !

The cast alloy uprights are part 9088036 and come fitted with the brass ball studs - prices vary a lot but jr-rc / Jasons Store has them for $11 delivered.

Combine those with a full strip, clean and rebuild - lube the nylon pusher that slides in and out of the chassis rail - and you should be sorted suspension wise.

If you are in the UK i can send you some of the white rod end adjusters - i have loads in the spares box. Just PM me your address.

Thanks for the parts number Percymon, I'll order those tonight.

I bought new uprights recently from J.C so that's a good start.

Thank you for the parts offer, I know I have these bits in my parts box as well.

[Grumpy pants]

Front body post fix - glue in a scrap piece of a parts tree with super glue, drill out the hole to fit if required and allow to set.

Now drill a new hole in the plastic to fit the body post. If you drill the hole too big then fix it again as above

A great cheap fix for screw holes in plastic components which have stripped or worn.

Another top tip thank you Tamiyabigstuff I appreciate it.

I'm going to experiment and see what happens.

My guess is that the body post coming out has saved the front of the shell from almost certain death!

[Grumpy pants]

All of the parts trees, tie rod ends, ball joints, and just about everything else is available online. I prefer eBay, but there are lots of other options as well. As mentioned earlier, download the manual and take the front end completely apart. Then proceed from there.

Thanks nascar24jd. I tend to favour eBay for ease as well, but I think as I get more into this hobby my pockets will lead me to other suppliers so my pocket money goes a bit further!

[Grumpy pants]

So last 2 questions for now!

The shocks are alloy...are these an upgrade or standard fitting? They seem nice quality.

Also the dif seems to be locked?? The rear wheels will only turn together and run in the same direction.

Either both forwards together or both backwards together. Is this normal?

[Grumpy pants]

Parts already in stock for future Baja when the Ranger shell has given up!

[Percymon]

The shocks are standard re-release items - nice quality and work OK with light shock oils.

The diff should not be locked, but perhaps if its been run in wet mud or sand, the previous owner chose to do this to save it getting bogged down.

[Grastens]

So last 2 questions for now!

The shocks are alloy...are these an upgrade or standard fitting? They seem nice quality.

Also the dif seems to be locked?? The rear wheels will only turn together and run in the same direction.

Either both forwards together or both backwards together. Is this normal?

Percymon beat me to it, however I continue anyways:

The alloy shocks are standard on the re-release Frog/Brat; these bear a resemblance to the original 'Adjustable Racing Shocks' once only available in the Frog and option parts for the Brat and Lancia Rally. The black end that is screwed onto the chassis is one visual cue that the units on your chassis are the re-release types; thus they are the ones fitted as standard.

The differential gear should not be locked if built per the manual, unless a vintage solid gear was fitted from an original Brat or Lancia Rally. Again, I am in agreement with Percymon on this one.

[WillyChang]

You've got an original Brat with the spool (no diff) rear end,

you've got the early Brat steering crank & MSC mounting plate.

Re-re Frog & Brat have a diff & modern oil shocks, no plate & steering direct off servo.

[Mokei Kagaku]

To me the model appears to be a mix of original and re-release parts. As WillyChang points out, the lack of a diff function is probably due to an original Brat spool being installed (the re-re Brat comes with the Frog diff), and steering mechanism and MSC plate are parts from the original release too. The front body post is also the original type and fitting a re-re type front body post would solve the problem you have with the original post.

Very early Brats had front bumper mounts without the "tube" for the Frog front body post and frames without holes for mounting the skid plate, something your model has and which indicates its origin might be an original Brat, but not an early production sample. Also, early production original Brats had a narrow bumper without strengthening ribs, but as the bumper of your model is barely visible in the pics, it's hard to say which type it has.

The original Brat came with black rod ends and without the "sunburst" washers in the front suspension that your model has, and which were included with the original Frog and the re-re Frog and Brat. Dampers and front uprights are re-re parts too.

My guess is that your Brat is an original release model with some re-re parts (rather than a re-re with some original release parts).

[bromvw]

IMO its worth fitting the re - re parts to make it a more reliable runner . All the re -re parts are a direct fit and quite cheap so if your doing a rebuild it makes sense to use them .

if its going to be a shelf queen ( I hate em ) then you'll have to find original parts - far from easy and certainly not cheap . Not really worth it now its being re released .

[nascar24jd]

IMO its worth fitting the re - re parts to make it a more reliable runner .  All the re -re parts are a direct fit and quite cheap so if your doing a rebuild it makes sense to use them . 

 

if its going to be a shelf queen  (  I hate em )  then  you'll have to find original parts - far from easy and certainly not cheap .  Not really worth it now its being re released .

I agree 100%. Make it reliable and then run the heck out of it.

I'm not a fan of shelf queens at all.

[Grumpy pants]

The shocks are standard re-release items - nice quality and work OK with light shock oils.

The diff should not be locked, but perhaps if its been run in wet mud or sand, the previous owner chose to do this to save it getting bogged down.

This is great info Percymon, especially as it is all new to me!

It runs really well, the tyres let it down from what I can see as they don't really have enough grip, but it might just be the motor being a bit too much for them.

[Grumpy pants]

Percymon beat me to it, however I continue anyways:

The alloy shocks are standard on the re-release Frog/Brat; these bear a resemblance to the original 'Adjustable Racing Shocks' once only available in the Frog and option parts for the Brat and Lancia Rally. The black end that is screwed onto the chassis is one visual cue that the units on your chassis are the re-release types; thus they are the ones fitted as standard.

The differential gear should not be locked if built per the manual, unless a vintage solid gear was fitted from an original Brat or Lancia Rally. Again, I am in agreement with Percymon on this one.

Thanks Grastens its always good to hear from you and I know you know this chassis really well.

I will probably read the Brat manual and strip the whole thing down soon, but other than the minor aches and pains it runs well and is so much fun in it's current state I'm in no massive hurry!