Boothy 58 Posted March 9, 2014 Well I tried out my sports tuned hornet today vs my stadium blitzer and the hornet is easily as quick I did notice that the reverse on my blitzer is very very slow for some reason? is this a clue to something being wrong? Both are running stock esc's so a 101 in the hornet and I think its a 105 in the Blitzer, The hornets reverse is rapid noting like the blitzers. I was using my 3700 Nimh in the hornet and a 5000 Nimh in my Blitzer which is a newer battery... So are the hornets generally just a quick car or is something amiss? I have had the blitzers box apart a couple of times during the build and everything seemed ok. Andy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thommo 1218 Posted March 9, 2014 The TEU105BK speed controler runs at 50% reverse so your slow reverse is normal operation. The rest is mostly power to weight ratio being in the favour of the Hornet with its lighter chassis and the lighter battery you put in it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
super gripper 419 Posted March 9, 2014 The super stock RZ is still a better motor and trumps the sports tuned easily. Easier to clean, it has ball races and being able to change/re-new brushes. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisRx718 4470 Posted March 10, 2014 Note that also your 105 ESC can't pump enough amps (or is not rated to) to get the full benefit from the RZ motor. Get a 302BK or cheaper aftermarket ESC on there so you can push more Amps in the direction of the RZ and it should perform a bit better. Your 101 is currently OK to run with a Sports-Tuned or a GT-Tuned, but an RZ demands more from your ESC than it can currently provide. Whilst it may work ok for many, many battery packs this is only a testament to the build control. Put it under too much load and the automatic cut-out will probably be triggered. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
94eg! 834 Posted March 10, 2014 The super stock RZ is still a better motor and trumps the sports tuned easily. Easier to clean, it has ball races and being able to change/re-new brushes. Super Stocks have bushings. You can remove and polish the bores (drill + old rotor shaft + toothpaste) and faces, or swap them for motor bearings. I would say the RZ is either geared incorrectly, or it's worn down (or the Blitzer is crazy heavy???). Have someone true the comm on a motor lathe, and solder new Trinity 4499NT brushes on it. There will be no doubt about it's superiority over the black-can. I love the RZ & TZ motors. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boothy 58 Posted March 10, 2014 The RZ is brand new, the pinion is the stock tamiya one. I did find the motor was getting quite hot though I am wondering if it might need a change of pinion? I have got an RW 13 tooth pinion but that is the same as stock, the blitzer does weigh a bit more though that's true. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redzone 212 Posted March 11, 2014 I ran a 15 tooth pinion with the rz in my Blitzer & I had trouble keeping the front wheels on the ground! It was a ****** for spinning when u back off though due to the strong motor magnets. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisRx718 4470 Posted March 11, 2014 The RZ is brand new, the pinion is the stock tamiya one. I did find the motor was getting quite hot though I am wondering if it might need a change of pinion? I have got an RW 13 tooth pinion but that is the same as stock, the blitzer does weigh a bit more though that's true. You missed my reply, Your Motor nor your pinion are the source of your problems - it's your ESC not giving you the full benefit of the motor. You need to upgrade the ESC. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted March 11, 2014 As per above post, but in addition the Blitzer gearcase doesn't allow for a smaller pinion than the 13T which is used with the silver can motor. Normally you'd want to do 2 teeth less for a RZ motor. Having said that i run a 17Tx2 motor in mine and not noticed any issues with the 13T pinion Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butler 338 Posted March 11, 2014 ..and yes the hornet is a quick car out of the box. Very light. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GregM 1109 Posted March 11, 2014 1. The TEU105BK speed controler runs at 50% reverse so your slow reverse is normal operation. The rest is mostly power to weight ratio being in the favour of the Hornet with its lighter chassis and the lighter battery you put in it. 2. The TEU-101/104/105BK (25 Turns limit) ESCs aren't approved for the 23 Turns Tamiya SuperStock motors. Under heavy load current drain (e.g. heavy weight, large tires, 4WD), the ESC will heat up and may go into protection cutoff for cooling purposes. As long as the ESC doesn't cut out (because the motor isn't drawing too much current being driven e.g. with a light car, 2WD, and small wheels), it will be able to fulfill the motor's current draw and will not limit the vehicle's speed. 3. If the motor gets too hot, use a smaller pinion gear. On the Blitzer Beetle this means: 13T - Pitch:module 0.8 or equivalent 32dp. These conditions put strain on the motor: Large pinion/small spur gear, large wheel diameters, grass/tall lawn (!) and soft sand surfaces, complex (4WD) transmissions and bushings (instead of ball bearings). General information on Tamiya electronic speed controllers for brushed motors: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=71440&p=512768 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boothy 58 Posted March 11, 2014 Thanks for the replies guys, those were my thoughts with regards the esc. I am not having any thermal cutting out issues so how will it be limiting the top speed? The stock pinion is 13 tooth and I think that's as small as I can go? Don't get me wrong the blitzer is not slow but when I took out my hornet with its sports tuned it was easily as quick and much much quicker than it was with a stock silver can. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
94eg! 834 Posted March 12, 2014 If the motor is getting hot, then you are either over-geared or you have something binding in the drivietrain. It's pretty much that simple. If you can't gear down (smaller pinion), consider running smaller diameter tires. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SteveU30 1011 Posted March 13, 2014 These temperature guns are really useful for seeing what kind of temps everything is reaching, just point and shoot at each component after a run: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261302216124 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
