JeepnMike 150 Posted March 12, 2014 Hey gang, I just thought I would share a few pics of my latest project. I already have a DB01 that has plenty of goodies (and years of use) but I happened upon a big box of spare parts (all new) on RCTech for a great deal which inspired me to build a whole new buggy from parts. I was trying to build a DB01RR which I have done for the most-part (and more). I have gear diffs, but I chickened out and put my TRF'd ball diffs back in and will just put the stock ball diffs in my practice DB01. I have a dual slipper so I should be able to safely run the gear diffs, I just didn't feel like taking chances with it in my race buggy for now. The body / shell was painted by the guy I bought all of the parts from, it is brand new and was just a token bonus.. It is airbrushed and gorgeous! I take no credit for how that turned out.. LOL Thanks for all of the parts and sweet body Rick! I am still going to cut a notch in the spur gear cover like I did on my old one after taking these pics. I find it so much easier to set my ball diff tightness after each run, I don't have to take the cover off (and the 8 screws holding it down). I just put my thumb on the gear through the access hatch and check on the diffs.. This has helped me significantly in terms of not over-tightening and constantly ruining the ball diffs. Many thanks to Lee for turning me on to the hardened ballstuds and gray ballcups.. that really tightened things up! I am excited to see how it goes at the track! Enjoy! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
super gripper 419 Posted March 12, 2014 Well done chap, that is one fine looking DB01RR real eye candy. I look forward to hearing about your track experiences and your veiws about the car. The body shell sure is a nice one I see you have gone with a 5.5 I have one for my 502 but without having track tested it yet I am going to start with a 6.5 Hope you can get some on track pics of your RR rocketing around your local clubs Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
94eg! 834 Posted March 12, 2014 It looks amazing, but the aluminum turnbuckles are are really freaking me out. Even the shortest AL turnbuckles bend with the slightest impact on my 415. I definitely wouldn't use those off-roading. I've even bent the titanium ones on-road, and the wheels have a lot less leverage over the tie-rods for touring cars. And that is with a Tamiya servo saver. Standard steel and a turquoise colored sharpie should do the trick. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yello 6 Posted March 12, 2014 Looks maaarvelous. So clean, so smooth! The shell doesn't look like a Baldre. Something about the way the rear rounds out. In anycase, that is a terrific body shell. Love it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JeepnMike 150 Posted March 13, 2014 I knew I was taking a chance on the turnbuckles... They look pretty for the pics anyway My stock ones are still straight as an arrow for when the aluminum ones go. For those wondering what I was talking about when I said I was going to cut a notch in the spur gear cover, I have some pics of that below. The reason for cutting it open is to aid in adjusting ball diff tightness and slipper clutch tightness. If you hold the spur gear with your finger, hold one wheel (rear for example) and spin the other rear wheel by hand, you want the slipper to slip before the ball diff. If the slipper is tighter than the ball diff, that is bad. By cutting a notch in my spur cover, I can precisely adjust diffs and my slipper without ever removing a screw which is a big deal with this car! If I am ever feeling like something is off and want to speculate about a diff, I can just hold the spur gear and test away knowing my diffs are good. Thanks Sean for teaching me how to test diff tightness.. It only took me 3 years to get it right, but your method has been spot on the past year and a half for me! Thanks for the compliments guys! This has been a fun little project. Here are a couple more pics: 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DaveB 151 Posted January 8, 2015 Can't believe I missed this thread, great job Mike Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JeepnMike 150 Posted January 9, 2015 Thanks Dave! It has a season of use since then. Thanks to you actually I decided to give Speed Passion a try and bought a Reventon Pro 1.1 ESC with a Novak Vulcan 6.5 motor and it has a new paint theme as well. As it sits right now, I am in the middle of tearing apart the suspension and tidying up all of the moving parts and replacing a bent front suspension mount. I am going to try to stick with my dampers but move the front damper upright mounts in one and go one spring stiffer (keeping the 35 front, 30 rear oils). I am desperately trying to get it to corner better vs. the point and shoot I have now, and also trying to soften the landings a bit which the two seem to counter each other. Fun times!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JeepnMike 150 Posted January 9, 2015 Since the photos above, I have a crazy fast JR servo, no longer needed the steering cap (I know, some will say still run it, but I haven't had a problem), I have gotten rid of the Futaba 3PM-X and actually am running Flysky stuff.. Crazy as that sounds, I like it better. I also changed out the motor and ESC as mentioned above. It is pretty racy.. Just needs some tuning (and time for tuning which I don't get enough of). 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
InsaneJim69 1584 Posted January 9, 2015 I see you have the trf 511 belt tensioners, what difference do they seem to make? Less belt chatter at the pulleys? James Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JeepnMike 150 Posted January 10, 2015 Hey there Jim. The belt tensioners came with a parts buggy I bought (I have 3 DB01s). I had major problems with the belts when running gear diffs which made me a bit paranoid even if I have no reason to be paranoid with my ball diffs. They weigh next to nothing so I wasn't too concerned about the added weight by trying them. I am running my belts a little looser than I would if I didn't have the tensioners on there freeing things up just a bit. The bearings for the tensioners go *right* up against the belt virtually eliminating the chance of the belt jumping as the belt gets sandwiched between the plastic spur pulley an the tensioner bearing. My belts show a little less wear with them on there too. I am not a fan of adding mindless weight, but in this case I think it is actually worth it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
