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Posted

Hi everyone, I just purchased a new motor for my re re Frog with the Tamiya ESC and a 7.2v battery, 3000ma.

The motor is a brand new Duratrax Photon Speed 2. My question is regarding the statement below, which talks about break in. All I have is the car listed above. I don't have any special equipment. So, how can I break this motor in? Is it even necessary? Can I run it in my Frog at part throttle for a certain amount of time? Any advice is greatly appreciated.

I still have my new Sport Tuned motor, which I love. I want to see the comparison to the Duratrax motor.

Here is the comment:

COMMENTS: BREAK-IN For proper break-in, use a 3-5V power source, run the motor with no load. The contact patch should take up at least half of each brush's surface. Do NOT use more than 5V power, as the commutator may be damaged.

Posted

I am sure TC member shenlonco can answer questions you have about the Duratrax Photon Speed 2 motor, as he is a primary exponent of these motors. The comments seem straightforward, though, as to the break-in.

For a power source, you can use a small battery box and wires with alligator clips to attach to the box and motor. Still unsure about the contact patch comment, but again somebody with experience on these motors could help you further.

It has been said, though, that sealed-endbell motors generally do not require much of a break-in period since their brushes tend to be too hard to seat significantly on the commutator. Usually this is for the so-called silver cans, but has held true for the Sport-Tuned motor from my experience and could very well apply for the Photon Speed 2.

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi if you don't have any stuff to break in a motor you can simply hook it on your cars ESC wires and leave it out of the car and power up your car with a battery pack and use the radio turn the trim knob and make the motor run at a slow speed for like 15 min check the esc if it gets hot turn it off and let it cool down and try again... most times the esc will just run a little warm.

then oil the front and rear bushings on the motor with a tiny drop of oil that you can put on with a pin or a tooth pick you do not want a lot of oil on them because it can seep through and get on the brushes and com.

then you can put it in your frog and have FUN! ( I always use the smallest pinion the kits can use first because the duratrax motor has much more higher RPM than the standard kit motors have and then see how hot the motor runs and if cool you can try a larger pinion.

Hope this helps.

  • Like 1
Posted

Just a note, I bought 2 of these motors and both were duds, they were slower than sport tuned motors even with proper break in. I wasn't impressed but thats the gamble with cheap parts.

  • Like 1
Posted

That's what I'm wondering. I have Sport Tuned motors in both of my Frogs. Great motors. Very fast. Somebody on here told me to try out the Duratrax motor, so I figured I would buy one and try it out. For $13 I'm skeptical.

Posted

Shenlonco seems to have had good luck with these motors. I hope I didn't come off as a wet blanket but for me these motors didn't work out.

  • Like 1
Posted

dualdigger


Let me ask what battery you using?
also what pinion gear sometimes you need to use the smaller pinion gears for most Tamiya kits because you can hardly gear any of these Tamiya kits correctly when using faster higher RPM motors ... your motors will run much to hot and burn up .

also I am comparing this motor most of the time to the stock kit silver can motor and for $12.00 it is a cheap good upgrade that makes your car much faster than with the kit motor.

also a dry break in on like 3v or less can actually take up to like 2 hours run in to seat the brushes properly

Posted

Sorry Shenlonco, I just saw your post. I run small 2200 mah 2s lipos in most of my kits. My first try was in a dt-02 with a 17t pinion, the second was in my rally car, a xv-01 and I believe I was running a 23t in that car. I will say they are faster than a silver can and cheaper as pointed out but to me the sports tuned was faster. I didn't break the motors in for 2 hours but I did break it in using the water method, just the same as all my other motors. One thing that I noticed was the wires they come with are quite short and I did extend/replace them when I installed deans plugs but I really don't think that matters as I use 12 gauge wire in everything. I might have got a bad lot of motors for I do live in Canada and we do sometimes get the short end of the stick up here lol. I am going totry running one in longer and see what's happens, the xv-01 has one in it right now so we will see.

Posted

how to break in a brushed motor, and yes the sealed canned motors do need to be broken in, more so than modified brushed motors which actually only need the brushes gently worn in so all of the brush touches the commutator.

Sealed can motors need breaking in, stick it in your car and just run it and it will be a lot slower than if its broken in like this ................. if you are going to do something...........do it properly.

Posted

Don't break in a motor in water to long the brushes wear in much faster some motors in only a few minutes and some could take up to 15 minutes so be sure to keep looking at the brushes every few minutes when doing this and stop when you see them fully hitting on the com.

  • 6 months later...
Posted

Sorry for digging up an old thread, but I have a question about this motor. My local track is starting an oval spec class for the BoLink/RJ Speed Legend cars, using this motor. Does it have timing? I'd like to run it on the left side of the chassis for weight bias, which means I have to run it in reverse.

Posted

I broke the motors into the beer because the beer is thicker than water. But I did it only for the races, the other motor gone directly from the bot into the car.

Max

Posted

Sorry for digging up an old thread, but I have a question about this motor. My local track is starting an oval spec class for the BoLink/RJ Speed Legend cars, using this motor. Does it have timing? I'd like to run it on the left side of the chassis for weight bias, which means I have to run it in reverse.

Hi yes it is timed the can has 3 notches in it to change it so you can run it backwards you need to bend out the motor tabs and push in the front motor shaft up into the motor can and then when the rear cap is popped out far enough turn the cap and put the can notch slot in the far opposite side of what it was in stock ... the center is 0 timing.

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