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Kyosho Scorpion Re Release at Shizuoka Hobby Show !

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Before the RC10 the Scorpion and Tomahawk ruled the racing circuit. Heavily modified SRBs (which barely looked like SRB) and ORVs could never come close to catching it.

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It may depend on the race scene, though... According to this gentleman, the Frog beat the Scorpion in Germany: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2586&p=20003

However, the Tomahawk was of course superior to both.

I find it interesting that the Scorpion has a similar chassis configuration to the Tamiya Striker. The Scorpion's strength is literally derived from the two aluminum rails beneath the lower body, but the lower radio box and upper bodyshell have me thinking of the ill-fated beginner's car.

So, at once they are similar and yet so very dissimilar - the Scorpion has the superior gearbox, front suspension, rear suspension (likely, even though they are actually the same angled semi-trailing arm configuration), tuning options, balancing... We now know why it was re-released first! :P

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I can't speak to racing in Germany.. But here in the states the Scorpion dominated.. ORVs did not come close. In fact initially the Scorpions did well against RC10s because they were still lighter. Hence the Swiss cheese gold pan chassisLater there was an attrition of drivers to RC10, due to its superior tune ability.

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"Unique" in quotation marks... I wonder if the Scorpion was already under development when that racer broke cover? :P

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Actually, nerf bars might be a cool hop-up.

Cue Toykid and Shapeways :D

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How do you like the real one? ;)

1981_8.jpg

The arrangement with the engine in front of the gearbox, A-arm suspension and (rear) inboard brakes surely must have been pretty unique for a Porsche/VW-powered buggy at that time!

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Actually, nerf bars might be a cool hop-up.

CRP made nerf bars for the Scorpion, but appropriate for that time, more purposeful than realistic. Still more realistic than the Kydex nerf wings they also made for it!

10576979_10152227121047407_3241579459063

10556229_10152227121067407_4659647228707

10487190_10152227121032407_8208777684883

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CRP also had a single bar nerf set, as well as JG Mfg.

I have both sets of nerf bars from CRP, and the full cage as seen in the pics, I've not been able to convince myself to drill holes in the cage to mount the 3 point nerfs.

Also have 1 of the JG nerfs, the other was missing from the pkg, I don't think it was ever in there, the pkg had no holes or damage, just missing a bar. Plan to make the matching bar out of aluminum stock, made a rolling bender.

Need to finish this one someday, the re re kinda took the thrill out of it.

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/pictureframe.asp?t=n&id=img985_25032014222904_1.jpg

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Here is mine, sans wing. This is built as a runner and a running its had so for. Seems pretty tough for an ancient design. Very fun buggy, I would recommed it to anyone. His head is still in paint;)

B68FFB6B-B2DD-472F-9314-E3C51A503E72_zps

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I recently ordered a Scorpion 2014 to build it. I have no recent experience in the RC world and I'm looking for an suitable motor for this baby. I was thinking on the Novak 13.5T Vulcan with the stock controller for this engine. Would it be OK for the Scorpion?

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I recently ordered a Scorpion 2014 to build it. I have no recent experience in the RC world and I'm looking for an suitable motor for this baby. I was thinking on the Novak 13.5T Vulcan with the stock controller for this engine. Would it be OK for the Scorpion?

Hi it should Handel it I think a 3000Kv motor will be good in it.

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I'm sure some of you are familiar with Time Tunnel, and the awesome work TanaTwo puts into his clean builds. I love the pics in the link below...gorgeous re-re scorpions out on the track!

http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/tanatwo1970/69200455.html

I did a quick google on tqtoshi that is mentioned on tanatwo's blog, and this page below popped up... Erm, make sure your wife or significant other has left the room because there is VIDEO! 2nd vid and the HX-A500 vid (scroll way down the page) are sweet. The 4wd Scorpion Beetle makes an appearance at 4:00 min in the HX-A500 vid.

http://sky.ap.teacup.com/applet/tqtoshi/201408/archive

Here's some translation of Katakana that may help some google searches :D

スコーピオン = Scorpion

トマホーク = Tomahawk

スコーピオンミーティング = Scorpion Meeting

Jコンのタイヤ = J-concepts tire

ラジコン = Raji Con or Radio Control

モーター = Motor

タイムトンネル = TimeTunnel

Cheers,

-Matt

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I see Le Mans 490 motor for the scorpion is for sale 2014 . JR-RC has them . Was 4 & now he has 15 .

Is this the New motor for the re re ?. Or does it come with it ?. ( i didn't get one of the scorpion's ) .

But i did get two of these motors :D ..

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I see Le Mans 490 motor for the scorpion is for sale 2014 . JR-RC has them . Was 4 & now he has 15 .

Is this the New motor for the re re ?. Or does it come with it ?. ( i didn't get one of the scorpion's ) .

But i did get two of these motors :D ..

The re re does not come with a motor, it is listed in the hop ups for the Scorp.

I have 1 coming along with the HG shocks, Kyosho sure knew how to get people excited by offering the hop ups.

I check everyday for them, they have my interest :) (HOP UP JUNKY) :)

Shame Tamiya didn't do something similiar with the SS BC, they could have sold a lot of them.

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So, some parts arrived today, I hope, next Sunday I will be able to build! :)

15042887741_95435380e7_c.jpg

Novak brushless 13.5 Vulcan by Istvan Penzes, on Flickr

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Glitch Buster Capacitor by Istvan Penzes, on Flickr

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Novak EDGE 2S ESC by Istvan Penzes, on Flickr

Probably I ordered a wrong servo, to slow, but for now, it will be mounted.

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Savöx servo by Istvan Penzes, on Flickr

Can't wait......

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What's odd to me is exactly how the doggone binding is caused, or fixed, by the various screws holding the metal rods in place. I have been able to fix the problems by following the advice above (pull the arms outwards, tighten the inner screw first) but am trying to understand if the problem is originally caused by:

1) The rod holders turning due to the screws being tightened underneath, or

2) The rod holders being pulled too far down due to the same.

Put another way, what exactly does pulling the arms outwards ensure when tightening the screws?

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What's odd to me is exactly how the doggone binding is caused, or fixed, by the various screws holding the metal rods in place. I have been able to fix the problems by following the advice above (pull the arms outwards, tighten the inner screw first) but am trying to understand if the problem is originally caused by:

1) The rod holders turning due to the screws being tightened underneath, or

2) The rod holders being pulled too far down due to the same.

Put another way, what exactly does pulling the arms outwards ensure when tightening the screws?

Hi they could have used a hair shorter dog bones or cut into the drive cups a little deeper and it would work...pulling the arms out like shown in my photo makes the rear toe in and makes the length longer from drive cup to drive cup and also a little rear toe is a good thing it will make the buggy run better this way.

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I've read somewhere that the problem can also be fixed by using the ball diff of the RB5/RB6 instead of the gear diff, the outdrives are supposed to be a little deeper…

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Yesterday started with the assembly, I need to figure out, what the best way is to arrange the cables, I was riding today, what a fun! :)


14906053518_82c9b0c00a_c.jpg

start by Istvan Penzes, on Flickr


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frame assembly by Istvan Penzes, on Flickr


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diff unit by Istvan Penzes, on Flickr


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gear box by Istvan Penzes, on Flickr


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motor plate layout by Istvan Penzes, on

Flickr


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gear box and motor assembly by Istvan Penzes, on Flickr


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suspension assembly by Istvan Penzes, on Flickr


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one done, three to go by Istvan Penzes, on Flickr


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rear suspension arm by Istvan Penzes, on Flickr


14905943969_43c76df711_c.jpg

rear shock and engine by Istvan Penzes, on Flickr
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As we all know tamiya club is not a good influence when it comes to sticking to budgets, so i just ordered a scorpion. Not sure if i will build it or keep it NIB, but after seeing some pictures of it on the beach, i might just have to build it :-)

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You know, the best way to satisfy your self is buy two kits, one for the beach and one for NIB/shelf-queen or in the worst case as a spare part stock. :)

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