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SteveU30

SteveU30's Shark Mouth FAV build

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Welcome to my build thread of the Tamiya Shark Mouth FAV. I got this kit for Christmas off the good wife and have been looking at the box ever since waiting for the right time to build it. Now this may come as a surprise to some of you but this is actually my first ever NIB kit build! Yes I've got over 20 RC vehicles, a lot of which I've stripped and rebuilt but for some reason I've never actually built one from kit form.

This build will be mainly stock and box art however I do intend to improve certain areas which Tamiya decided to leave a bit lacking, namely the suspension and the lights. I'm also going to add a few choice scale accessories seeing as this is an extremely scale buggy to begin with.

The idea is for it to be a runner and a tame one at that so I will be sticking to a silver can or Sport Tuned to reduce the risk of rollovers.

And so on with the build!

Arrival from Banzai:

IMG_1660_zps061b3d99.jpg

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Step 1 - Attaching Side Guards

Right I know it's only step 1 but I'm going to go well off piste already as the instructions just don't flow well. I remember the advice from a couple of recent Shark Mouth FAV builds was to paint and decal everything first otherwise you're constantly chopping and changing from building to painting to decaling. Plus some of the decals are a right pain to fit once things have been been bolted on to the chassis tub.

So here's all the painting shots:

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And the decals:

IMG_2228_zpseb1e47c9.jpg

Right, back to step 1, side plates and bars fitted:

IMG_2229_zpsdc643dce.jpg

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Steps 3 & 4 - Attaching Front Uprights & Axles

First modification to the standard kit here, I don't like the idea of the friction shocks because a) well they're friction shocks and B) they make a horrible clicking noise when in operation. Some people fit the Wild One front and rear shocks but the general advice is that the rear Wild One shocks are way to stiff for this chassis (and they are) so I've decided to go a bit left field. I'm fitting the front Wild One shocks to the Rear and Hornet rear shocks to the front. This way the suspension looks in-keeping with the scale looks, but more than that it should actually work quite well (at least that's the theory).

Here's the front uprights assembled minus the FAV spring mounts (I'll be using Wild One spring mounts from the Wild One A Parts Bag).

IMG_2231_zps61e0c859.jpg

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Step 5 - Attaching Front Suspension

As per the instructions

IMG_2232_zpsc2727245.jpg

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Step 6 - Attaching Front Axles

Note the omission of the Spot lamps, these will come later

IMG_2234_zps35af7d35.jpg

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Step 7 - Attaching Front Coil Springs (or in this case, Hornet rear shocks)

Hornet shocks on the left, Wild One front shocks on the right

IMG_2236_zps919e3195.jpg

Hornet shocks fitted to the Wild One spring mounts

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Hornet shocks fitted to the chassis (very scale IMO)

IMG_2238_zps3362558d.jpg

IMG_2239_zps70a2e3f1.jpg

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Your painting skills are excellent - will be following this build thread with interest!

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Nice work and build thread so far, and you'll thank yourself for pre-painting everything!

Keep it up!

Cheers,

Skottoman

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Nice thread, keep it going ...

Those bottom brackets on the front shocks.. !!! you haven't got a couple spare, have you :)

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Thanks lads, appreciate the kind words!

Nice thread, keep it going ...

 

Those bottom brackets on the front shocks.. !!!  you haven't got a couple spare, have you :)

I only have the U-shaped ones that come in the FAV kit I'm afraid, not the Wild One brackets that I've used. You're welcome to the FAV ones that I have if they're any use though?

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Nice thread, keep it going ...

Those bottom brackets on the front shocks.. !!! you haven't got a couple spare, have you :)

part 19804527 - maybe Fusion could order them - ebay USA suggest about £6 the pair

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part 19804527 - maybe Fusion could order them - ebay USA suggest about £6 the pair

Thanks, I need a pair.... so I'd better get hunting.. :)

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Great idea on the Hornet shocks! I briefly ran a FAV fitted with the optional black shocks, and it was ridiculously stiffly sprung.

The bottom spring retainer for the front W1/FAV damper is too small however, which leads to the spring rubbing/catching on the shock bodies. Someone here suggested using the V4 part from the GT01 Tamtech but I didn't manage to try that before selling the FAV.

From memory the dampers limited the steering throw - how is it on yours?

IMG_2239_zps70a2e3f1.jpg

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Sweet!

I'm most interested to see how you mount those F150/Pajero wheels on the front free-wheel axles...

Jx

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Sweet!

 

I'm most interested to see how you mount those F150/Pajero wheels on the front free-wheel axles...

 

Jx

Ha ha, they're actually for another project, but you knew that already didn't you? Didn't you?

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Great idea on the Hornet shocks! I briefly ran a FAV fitted with the optional black shocks, and it was ridiculously stiffly sprung.

The bottom spring retainer for the front W1/FAV damper is too small however, which leads to the spring rubbing/catching on the shock bodies. Someone here suggested using the V4 part from the GT01 Tamtech but I didn't manage to try that before selling the FAV.

From memory the dampers limited the steering throw - how is it on yours?

Yes they do seem to limit the steering throw but I have a few ideas on this as you'll see later on in the build as I am going to attempt to set the suspension up to within an inch of it's life!

Anyway, on with the build!

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Step 8 - Checking R/C Equipment

Not much to say here other than I used the nearest battery, ESC, rx & tx I could find to centre the basic Acoms AS-17 Servo that I'm using along with the kit servo saver.

9253509E-C80B-4613-A3CF-93E906D14520_zps

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Step 9 - Attaching Steering Servo

Again, no much to write home about here as I'm using kit stock components:

DD41C89F-ABDF-4FE8-B158-2AEFC03A8D06_zps

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Step 10 - Installing R/C Units

Now I'm using the all new Hobbyking Quicrun 1060 ESC in this build (thread here http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=72987&hl= )

as I needed something with a BEC and LiPo support as I intend to run 2.4GHz and LiPo in this. The only problem is the On/Off switch doesn't fit the chassis how a Tamiya ESC switch does and I can't make up my mind whether to void the warranty on the ESC by fitting a Tamiya switch or blank off the switch hole and locate the Quicrun switch somewhere else.

For now I've chosen to blank off the hole and not fit the ESC at all while I make up my mind. I want to leave the electrics until last anyway as I want them to be as neat as possible (read unseen) so for that to happen I need the chassis to be 99% complete.

Some pics so you understand what I'm talking about:

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99F5D370-F16B-4E7F-8BD8-5FFAF377B8EF_zps

8258B928-C0BE-445F-AE25-E16E363AB540_zps

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Step 11 - Figure

Evan assembled and ready to be installed, I think he needs some decals though (Army star and rank patches etc...). What do you guys think?

75A9B549-7117-4B65-B722-17E018DD5620_zps

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Steps 13 & 14 - Roll Cage

What happened to Step 11 I hear you ask? Well that step is Installing Evan but as he's awaiting further detailing plus the all important electrics installation that step will be much later on.

E4A89942-7280-42BC-B6E8-133DE280C397_zps

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