BigSteve 149 Posted April 29, 2014 Hi all just wondering if anyone has had the same problem as me. I have a re re Wild One that I bought as an ex shelf queen. When I bought it I stripped the gearbox and greased all the parts as per the build manual. I fitted a 20 turn brushed motor. When you turn the rear wheels they dont seem the smoothest compared to other 2WD buggies I have (niva fox, hornet and grasshopper).When it's runnung it seems rather noisy and the motor gets quite warm. Before I start my investigation has anyone had the same issues or any clue what the problem could be. Thanks in advance Steve. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kontemax 1725 Posted April 29, 2014 Probably diff gears are worn. Max Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
taliesin 260 Posted April 30, 2014 You know, I noticed the same thing. I just finished the paint and decal work last night on a new re-re WO, and fired it up ... and it seems pretty noisy. I know I built it right & this isn't my first rodeo - plus I just finished a FAV about two weeks ago and they are virtually identical builds. No noise on the FAV but the Wild One is a different story. Not sure if the gears were just cast or molded a bit off? My Fire Dragon was like that - nasty and noisy, but after a few years it still runs fine and I don't see any evidence inside the gearbox of the gears being powdered or badly worn. Weird. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kiasukid 52 Posted April 30, 2014 I built a re-re FAV a while back and found the gearbox very tight, and from memory it seemed like the outdrives were slightly more offset to one side than the other, leading to the dogbone interfering with the arc of the rear suspension that side. I built it as per the manual and triple checked it too. My re-re Fire Dragon originally had horrible bumps in between the teeth of the bevel gears. Tried to cut them out. It's a shelf queen but I'm tempted to find some original gears to sort that out properly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
taliesin 260 Posted May 2, 2014 I built a re-re FAV a while back and found the gearbox very tight, and from memory it seemed like the outdrives were slightly more offset to one side than the other, leading to the dogbone interfering with the arc of the rear suspension that side. I built it as per the manual and triple checked it too. My re-re Fire Dragon originally had horrible bumps in between the teeth of the bevel gears. Tried to cut them out. It's a shelf queen but I'm tempted to find some original gears to sort that out properly. What did you do to fix that offset of the dogbones / outdrives? I thought the travel was a bit tight on the left side of the WO so the only thing I could think of was to remove the o-ring on that side. Was there something you found that worked better? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kiasukid 52 Posted May 2, 2014 What did you do to fix that offset of the dogbones / outdrives? I thought the travel was a bit tight on the left side of the WO so the only thing I could think of was to remove the o-ring on that side. Was there something you found that worked better? Apart from fitting the Frog universals, perhaps try replacing the o-ring with a urethane bushing (http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-53577-damper-urethane-bushing-p-14329.html)? The bushing will compress more than the o-ring and can be trimmed to fit. I had the optional FAV damper set which is extremely stiff on the back, so I doubt the suspension worked as intended anyway. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeekelemental 528 Posted May 2, 2014 Your gears are gone. Open the Tcase and verify the bevel gears, if I'm not wrong you will find that one or both have teeth shaped as shark's ones. A 20t motor (specially if it's single turns) is too much for WO/FAV gears. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Freebs 6 Posted May 5, 2014 Just a thought......is your motor (and consequently your pinion) to tight to the drive gear? Try moving the motor away from the gear slightly for smoother running. You may have a good understanding of Tamiya's and as such already eliminated this as a problem, but you'd be surprised how many Tamiya's I've bought off flee bay with the motors crunched right up to the drive gear......slacken it off by less than a mm and it instantly runs smoother! It's a slim chance, but start with the simple things first. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redzone 212 Posted May 7, 2014 These cars only have 2 different holes for motor position so Terre is no chance of getting the mesh wrong... My advice is to check you put the spacer in the middle of the diff. I have heard of a few people missing this step, causing that kind of noise. . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Percymon 2184 Posted May 7, 2014 Steve - what pinion do you have fitted ? RW Racing 32dp steel pinion a run fine but there was a bad run of Traxxas items with the tooth profile slightly incorrect and these are well reported to be noisy in use Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BigSteve 149 Posted May 7, 2014 Hi I fitted a RW Racing 32dp pinion. I'll be stripping the gearbox this week and re build step by step as per the build manual to see if the previous owner missed something. Steve. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BigSteve 149 Posted May 16, 2014 Just a quick update. I've stripped the gearbox and fitted new bevel gears and when I held the spur gear tight the drive cups would hardly move in opposite direction. So I decided as an experiment to remove the whim/washer that, according to the build manual, sits between the 1150 and 850 bearing and now the drive cups move smoothly when I hold the spur gear tight?. So here's the question will it be safe to run the gearbox like this. Steve. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites