Axial Racing SCX10 Jeep Wrangler G6 Build Thread - for mr crispy

[Flerbizky 225]

1. As much as I like assembling RC cars, as much, or even more, do I seriously HATE lexan bodies. I do not have the patience, much less the skill required to do them properly. So let's kick this build thread off with just that and we can soon get to the enjoyable part. As I didn't want to do it exactly as box art (orange instead of white and some of the details in black) I started friday with a little bit of masking (another thing I hate with a passion).

20 bucks says this'll bleed like there's no tomorrow.

Almost done with the masking:

I hate you:

First shot of black for fenders and roll cage details.

Hmmmm.. Less bleeding than I feared:

More to come in Part Deux.

[mr crispy 2293]

Cool! Looking good to me mate. I'm liking your writing style Flerbizky

[Tamiya1/10 382]

A whole weekend has pasted. The build should be all completed. Family life is more important than RC life?

Really like the Axial Jeep Rubicon (4 door with roof version)

Look forward to the rest of your build and see if you will be using any of the optional parts.

[Flerbizky 225]

2. Let me start with an analogy: "Many many moons ago, I once upgraded my computer with a Tyan motherboard. That was returned to the store and replaced with an Asus board as I had previously, and before that, and ever since." Last time straying from Mister T - Promise!

• I am not a fan of machine screws into plastic.
• Motor assembly secured only by 4 self cutting countersunk into semi soft plastic. Where's the metal to metal and lock nuts?.
• Little annoyances like not being able to space the Losi crawler motor out far enough to actually install the pinion, because the motor hits the bolt securing the lower four link, means the entire motor assembly will have to be raised 2mm.
• You have to actually take note of all the little notes in the manual - definitely not a beginners kit. My nephew age 10 put together an M05 with only slight supervision. This would have had him in tears.
• It's a crawler - could you please supply a servo saver, even it being a crappy one. To be honest, there is one included, but not mentioned in the manual - and it's the size of a small dog.
• With servo and servo arm in the correct place (according to the manual), the servo arm hits one of the frame braces.
• Why are drive shafts not secured in the axles?. The way they go together, means that if you turn the axle to work on it - the drive shaft(s) fall out. Is this why I have to put thread lock on something that is not a thread?.

Pictures of the current state of the build when I get home - It's not all bad

[mr crispy 2293]

Oh man, that's not sounding as much fun as I hoped.

[Tamiya1/10 382]

I am surprise you seemed not to please with the kit. I have the SCX10 PU and I thought was pretty good over all. I would like it more if more details and a **** pit was included, but quite capable climbing up open drain pipes vs my XC/CC can only spin it tires even with front and rear diff. locked.

[henrikw 0]

Hope it's going to run much better than the build suggests My friend, we need to go "scaling" soon! Mud, sand, all the fun!

[dualdigger 62]

The SCX10 is a good kit, it has some areas that require attention but no more than most typical kits. One of the great things about Axial kits are the customization options available, probably one of the most versatile kits avail. today. You will love it once its built and made your own.

[Flerbizky 225]

3. Update.

A lot happier now after a glass of wine and a little playing with the Axial again. Work is stupidly frustrating atm. (not work itself, but the way our SaaS solution work. Make a change, wait 10 minutes or an hour to see if it solves the problem - or starts crashing the system and back to square one with a restore.)

Anyway. While waiting for Imgur and image upload - Here's a couple of tweaks I did today.

• Space the motor assembly up with 4 copper spacers and longer screws from the old Tamiya tool box. App. 2.5mm and now the motor can be installed just fine!.
• Removed the frame brace that was fouling the servo arm - It has one just in front of, and behind, so should not cause any issue. If it does, it get's re-installed after a little Dremel Time (-:

Started to add some stickers, and I'm fairly happy with the result - my lack of skills taken into account (-:

Suspension seems to have loosened up immensely just by being put back together.

As dualdigger said - Customize. So while the motor assembly was out anyway, added the machined motor plate I accidentally bought that was delivered today (-:

Still need to:

• Glue the tires
• Drill holes for body pins
• Find an ESC
• Add more stickers
• Maybe do a little more Dremel on the body around the rear panels.

But all in all - quite happy with it at the moment.

[Flerbizky 225]

4. The promised pictures:

Missing space for motor with lower link:

Space left for pinion:

No space for servo horn with frame brace installed:

As she stands at the moment (apologies for the messy desk - was the maids day off )

And finally - the Servo saver the size of a small dog (-:

After adding spacers to the motor assembly:

And removing the frame brace:

[Tamiya1/10 382]

Seems like a some minor design issue with the kit.

I may not know what I am talking about but just flip the cross brace upside down should creat more room for the servo and you are suppose to use a small pinion for the torque vs a large pinion for speed?

It seems the battery is located at the rear? Not good ideal for crawling. I think there is a tutorial from axial show how to relocate the battery back to the front.

[Flerbizky 225]

Seems like a some minor design issue with the kit.

I may not know what I am talking about but just flip the cross brace upside down should creat more room for the servo and you are suppose to use a small pinion for the torque vs a large pinion for speed?

It seems the battery is located at the rear? Not good ideal for crawling. I think there is a tutorial from axial show how to relocate the battery back to the front.

You're absolutely right. But - if you flip the brace, you lose the front mounting point for the battery holder - Which is why, it for now, is located at the back. If I decide to re-install the brace and move the battery up front, it'll be after a Dremel session.

[Flerbizky 225]

What she looks like now:

[Tamiya1/10 382]

about your servo...it maybe caused by a longer wheel base. my honcho does not have the problem you have with the horn hitting the brace bar. instead the wire coming out from the servo rubs the frame when the shocks are fully compressed. i had to move the servo just forward enough the wire will clear yet the horn won't touch the x brace. honcho wheel base is around 310mm. if the jeep is longer, i think is a design flaw. drilling out the brace will weaken the battery support. the only solution i can think of is mounting the servo behind the servo mounting posts but the wire could rub if shocks are compressed, or shave down the sevo mouting post by a few mm or get a short height servo. i found these out after i put in after market shocks where i can bottom out these shocks, but not the stocked ones.